Printable View
I was wondering how a diy'er could accomplish a left bolt right port. Would it be as simple as a left-handed bolt and a right-handed bolt head? I don't have any real practical gunsmithing experience. I am a tinkerer and could figure it out with some instruction. Any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
Jake
Get a Savage striker to start with..
Why would I need a striker?
Because it has a left bolt and a right port.
Are you left-handed and looking for a bench gun?
Ya I am left handed. I want to convert my right bolt 110 to a left bolt. SSS will do it but the wait is too much for me. I emailed them months ago and haven't received any info back. It would be nice to just order the parts and do the work myself. BTW I don't want to use a striker action because I want a repeater.
You will need a left hand cocking piece pin, left hand bolt body, and obviously a left hand bolt handle.
The logo on the left hand bolt body will be upside down, but you have options like a fluted bolt body, or you could polish the logo off.
Then you will need to mill the action on the left hand side.
Then you can have an action that can be used both right and left hand, both ejecting to the right side.
is there a diagram or exploded view of the savage bolt assembly so I can get an idea of what's there without having to take it apart yet. I took out my left and right bolts to compare them it seems that I would be able to take a left-handed bolt and put a right hand bolt head on it and that would accomplish the left-hand bolt right eject. The action is "slotted" on both the left and right sides for the round pin that slides in the cam angle to cock the spring. Sorry for the rough terminology, i'm not sure what they are actually called.
do not forget the ramps in the action for the locking lug have to be re-cut for opposite direction rotation
Would you explain the recutting of the ramps, and the importance of the locking of lugs.
Is it possible to make the coversion without cutting the ramps?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ge/30mqxir.jpg
not a good picture, but in side there is an angle cut to start the lug and pull the bolt head onto the case. With out it you would have to slam the bolt hard to get it in far enough to think about closing. the ejector and extractor are going to be fighting against you. also if the case is snug it will fight you. You would not be able to run a slight friction fit. the factory only cuts ramps for the intend direction on travel not both ways. the bolt head lug is kept square to keep its surface area as high as possible.
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. My initial post was wrong on the subject matter, at least partially.
Thanx for the help. So there is more to it than I thought.