Another barrel nut question

To make field barrel swaps a bit easier, I was wondering about the nut torque.
I have read where people around here tighten their barrel nuts anywhere from hand tight to 100 FT/LB.

I have always tightened mine to 30 FT/LB but now I am thinking even that could be over kill.

I have used the smack the barrel nut wrench with a hammer technique before and that works fine,
so I thought about maybe trying without a vise, IE, just hang onto the action and barrel with a death grip and smack it with the wrench
with a hammer one good time. A couple of whacks will loosen it up. Seems like it worked okay.

I have not put a torque wrench on it to see how many FT/LB it is.

Anybody else tighten and loosen barrel nuts like this, IE without a vise or action wrench ??

I'm sure we will both catch it for this, you thinking about it and me doing it, but that is how i do mine. I give it one good whack to tighten it and another good whack to make sure the first one was a good hit. Takes 1 or 2 whacks to knock the nut loose but have been shooting my F/TR rifle for 2 years and the nut has not come loose yet. i only shoot it at matches and to foul the barrel after i clean it to prepare for the next match so it has around 1300 rounds on it since i last had the nut loose. I have no ideal what the torque is by doing it this way tho. All this is done with the barreled action laying across my legs. Nothing but my hands holding the action. I don't not hold the barrel but i do double check headspace after i whack the wrench.

Gary

If you "smack" the nut wrench with a steel hammer, the shock will transfer to the barrel nut. Pushing or pulling just don't get it. All 6+ of my rigs have been set up that way over the years and I've "never" had one come loose. Never even thought about checking how tight they were with a torque wrench. Mark the nut and barrel with a felt tip pen so you'll know if anything ever moves and if you decide to swap barrels at some time, the marks will get you pretty close. Adjust headspace from there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie

If you "smack" the nut wrench with a steel hammer

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Does a claw hammer made back in the 40's count as real steel?

All of mine have been done the same way. Get a good hold on action with nut wrench in a good position and whack it a couple times with a 3lb. hammer.

They stay tight but I have been wondering if nut torque has any or much effect on accuracy.

that is the same way I have always done it too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShaneG.

All of mine have been done the same way. Get a good hold on action with nut wrench in a good position and whack it a couple times with a 3lb. hammer.

They stay tight but I have been wondering if nut torque has any or much effect on accuracy.

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I dont think the torque would mess with the harmonics any seeing as how it is on the fattest part/most stable part of the barrel.

I could be wrong though, just dont see it happening

earl: Anything made back in the 40s is the "real deal", including me! ;D

Mike your an old realic now like me

I use the dead blow hammer for the whack it and shoot it idea.The reason is the steel hammers may actually send so many harmonics to the steel nut and barrel thread that it may actually stretch the thread.I have never had them come loose this way either. Threads tend to peen over time and work harden the threads making them brittle.Just my 2 cents. I also put high pressure lube on the threads as well.Not much grease but alittle.

I don't hit my nut wrench with a hammer! I made an in line action wrench so all i have to do is pull the bolt and then use the action wrench and tighten the nut just like you would any other nut, no impact required.

Removing a factory fit barrel the first time I use my clamp on action wrench and hit it with a 5lb. brass hammer while holding the nut wrench in a cheap drill press vise to keep things straight. One whack is all I've ever had to use so far.

Bob