Help With 12 VLP Trigger Install

As a novice/DIY I have had good success messing around with AXIS/110s and Rifle Basic, Timney triggers. Thought I would try to get less than 1 lb pull with the target (red blade) retrofit on my 12 VLP, but this was a whole new ball game. First problem: the previous triggers used a coil compression spring to set the bolt release, but the 12 trigger uses a coil torsion spring through which the attachment pin passes. Try as I might, I could not get the pin inserted because because the holes would not line up with the spring under load. In despiration I used a slightly smaller nail with the pointey end to attach the trigger assembly to the then trimmed to length with a Dremel. Would appreciate any tips on how to get the attachment pin inserted. Second problem: the trigger assembly pivots around the pin and without firm contact with the underside of the safety. Is this normal? When installed in the stock the bolt release works ok but the sear doesn't engage the bolt.

If you’re talking about the pin to attach the sear to the action, I usually use a thin Phillips screwdriver or a small Allen wrench that is about half the size of the pin. It makes it easier to line everything up. Then slowly use the pin to push the Allen wrench back thru the hole. You will have to jiggle the parts around as you do it. I am pretty sure My target and standard triggers have the same type of sear spring.

Can you post some pics of the different springs just to clarify.

Not sure why you put it back in the stock to test it if you can’t get the correct pin in place and the safety doesn’t work? That worries me a little bit.
The sear and safety aren’t engaging because, a) you’re using a smaller diameter nail as the pin. And b) the new trigger is probably out of adjustment cause it has never been mated to your action assembly. Or any action if it’s a new trigger and sear from Gunshack.
Once the correct pin is installed the trigger can be properly adjusted and you should be good to go.
Please do not try to use it with a homemade nail pin as the trigger pin.

Thanks for the suggestion, much appreciated! Wrestled with the thing for better part of two hours, speaking in tongs, finally give up and will take it to my smith Quite humiliating for a mechanical engineer! BTW I was trying to get to the Target AccuTrigger speced to 6 oz to 2.5 lbs for FClass. My factory rigger is about 1.5 lbs, would like to get less than a lb. Would appreciate any suggestions here.

The sear has to be in the correct position. Otherwise it is dificult to get the hanger and trigger assembly to line up.

PDOG is a smart man period. Hope he doesn't mind me expanding a tad on his suggestion.

Follow what he stated in Find a "tool" (small diameter punch, small Phillips screw driver or even finish nail) to use for hole alignment of one trigger part and/or spring to another for a mockup assembly. Try to stay as small a diameter as possible when compared to holes on trigger parts and spring. Use this small diameter tool to hold parts in place. Once its all assembled with your tool use the actual trigger pin to push the tool out. All while knowing you may have to wiggle the tool and trigger pin during the trigger pin insertion.

Don't be afraid to use such a tool for other gun assemblies it works well for through hole threaded alignment applications also.

I have a couple small tapered drift punches that I use for such stuff. I think they were from a grandfather machinist. One is slightly less than 1/16" at the tip, then 3/32, then 1/8. I would not be surprised if he ground them himself.

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Originally Posted by charlie b

I have a couple small tapered drift punches that I use for such stuff.

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That's what I use too.

As Fred once reminded me, these tools are called "slave pins".

I seem to recall hearing that term as well.

And, the allen wrenches using in this role come in handy in tight spaces where a drift punch won't fit. And, they are cheap enough you can grind them to fit the application.