Tisas 1911 questions

Hey everyone, I've had my Tisas Raider for about a year now and have put approx 1000 rounds through it. Within the last couple of months it has developed a couple of issues. First, it started ejecting brass differently. I've had brass go directly vertical (it has hit me in my forehead.....not fun) and I've had brass go 6-8 feet directly to the side. Along with every direction in-between. Ideas as to what is going on/solutions?

Secondly, occasionally I will encounter a failure to feed. Once or twice every 50 rounds. The slide will go over the round and slam it into the feed ramp, pinning it there. This leaves a sizable dent in the case from the bottom edge of the slide driving into it. I've seen similar dents (considerably smaller, but the same shape) in the fired cases ejected from the pistol. I think the smaller dents are from the round hitting the top of the barrel chamber during feeding. Thoughts?

I've installed a full length guide rod (I like how they look) with the stock recoil spring and am running Chip McCormick mags. The issues were present before changing to a FLGR.

Shooting Winchester white box FMJ

Thanks!

Sorry, but I don't like Chip's 1911 mags.
I bought a bunch of Kimber Mags for my Girsan 1911.
Works fine. A few years and 1000's of rounds.

Interesting. All I use are the McC mags in my 1911's. Even after 20yrs of being stuffed with 8rnds they still do fine. They used to be exercised often so they do have a few thousand rounds on each. Even my wimpy cast 185 SWC target loads go through fine.

Are these factory loads? If reloads are they all the same load? Progressive press? Can you hand cycle the rounds through the pistol?

First thing I'd try is a different mag. Then a new recoil and/or mainspring. I'd also check the rails, FP retainer and bottom of the hammer to see if there is any galling or rough spots.

It’s the Recoil/mainspring setup. You don’t have enough spring which is causing Inconsistent & Too much. slide speed. Need to slow it down. You may be fine with a slightly heavier recoil spring, but as was mentioned, I’d look at the mainspring as well. Try another 2lbs on each spring. I always liked running Flat Firing Pin stops in my 1911 builds. Ii just thought factory guns put too much radius in the bottom angle. And not for nothing, but I switched to Mecgar 8 round mags with the polymer follower about 14years ago.


Oh, and sorry to say, but 1 or 2 FTF’s every 50rds is not Unnatural for a 1911. I’m sure there will be some here who will go on about their 1911’s not having a failure in 19-ought-eleventy-12 rounds & what not…. But it’s just not true. While I have carried a 1911 because it was my only pistol to carry at a specific time, my 1911’s are never my choice for a carry weapon. They simply are not striker fire, polymer pistols.

The only 1911's I've had misfires with were target pistols. Too tight tolerances. My issue pistols were all flawless in function. Even on range day I'd go down the line and check them. Of course accuracy wasn't a high point either. Most rattled more than a baby toy and many wouldn't hit a torso target at 50yd. :)

Regardless, if I couldn't get 100 rnds through one without a malfunction I'd fix it. Over 100 and the powder residue starts to build up and those tight tolerances bind up the gun. The good part is most of the time I shoot less than 100rnds before cleaning :)

I'm thinking of swapping the 16lb recoil spring in it for an 18lb spare that I have. Also, would lapping the slide/frame help? Both components are cerakoted. There are definitely spots where the coating has been rubbed off from the gun cycling. I'm wondering if the coating is causing the slide to bind and then jump forward once free.

Or go buy a SA 1911 in any flavor you choose and be done with it.
I used to spend a good bit on customs and hand fitted parts until I realized that Springfield Armory makes super high quality factory 1911 pistols from GI rattlesnake shakes to those with all the bells and whistles and everything in between. Never had an unreliable factory SA 1911. Most of the world reknowned high dollar custom 1911 pistol smiths got their start working at Springfield Armory and in their custom shop. Also gotta love a warranty you dont need. Theres not enough cost difference between he "wannabes" and a forged SA to justify my buying anything else. Never had anything close to the failure rate described above with anything but an uber tight hand built custom match gun that cost three times as much and needed cleaning every 50 rounds or so to function. Even from a ransom rest it doesnt shoot noticeably better than a factory SA STS Target model.
Just one of those expensive lessons I picked up along the way..

In the built vs bought conversation, I prefer to build and process through any issues I find ;)

Again, there is nothing to help. 1 or 2 jams in 50 rounds is quite normal for a 1911. It holds true, the tighter it is, the more jams will happen. The looser parts are, the less. But as soon as it starts getting dry, lack of lubricant, it will jam. This includes Springfield Armory 1911’s which I’ve both owned, and sold many hundreds! And also returned dozens for warranty work because of…… yes, Jamming. Although, this does not mean there is a problem.

I agree with the above. I too preferred building my own over buying. Those 1911’s I built were nicer & functioned better than those I or my friends and son, purchased. One thing you can try for piece of mind, is to polish the feed ramp & such.

Sorry nothing to add except that SA makes the TRP and the requirements for the adaptation were The model that won the 5,000 pistol contract back in 1988 had to meet stringent performance requirements like 2,500 rounds without stoppage and 1.5-inch groups from 25 yards with service ammunition.
Never owned a factory 1911 with a failure rate as high as stated above and actually honed the chamber on my Wilson combat match barrel and polished my reworked forged slide mating surfaces until it would run.
I only mentioned starting with an SA because if youre going to spend the $ on building a 1911 and the effort on hand fitting parts I feel its a disservice not to do so on forged slides and frames.
Good luck and hope you get your Tisas and its tolerances figured out.

Oh I wasn’t recommending anyone build a 1911 over buying one. Especially not without pretty extensive knowledge & background building/working on firearms. A 1911 is Not the firearm for a First Build. I know now there are these so called drop in parts for the 1911, but I would never use them. They didn’t exist when I was building them. Oversize parts & hand fit is the way to go.

But let me ask, why do you think it’s a disservice not to have a Forged frame? Just wondering your thoughts? I felt that way at one time, as I was conditioned through magazines and typical shooter range talNot to mention a lack of factual knowledge in operation and building. But it was actually CZ that first changed my mind on the Cast vs Forged debate. The CZ 75 is one of the finest firearms ever produced. No one out there has ever seen or even actually heard of a CS75 failing do it’s Cast frame. While most firearms manufactures that do use Cast Frames, still tend to use Forged Slides. Not all though. After learning CZ’s background, I then started learning of others, like Ruger using Cast Frames, Slides and even their Rifle Receivers are Cast! While I do agree Forged or Machined Billet is a nice touch, to say anything else is a disservice, I think, is not having the best understanding of the difference. While it’s never wrong to use a Forged frame, telling people they must or it’s no good is just factually incorrect. Quality of parts is the most important aspect. A bad forged part won’t work any better than a bad cast one. Neither will a quality Forged Frame provide better function, reliability or accuracy over a quality Cast frame. The forging is stronger than the cast in many cases, but simply being Forged does not mean it’s always going to be stronger. In the cases they are stronger, yes, that extra strength gives a certain level of piece of mind. Of course, we all know that added piece of mind does nothing for actual operation in the real world.

The last 1911 I built is the only one I have at present. It was built on a custom maker Cast Frame. And I actually used a S&W slide I already had in my spare parts. But from there, I used almost every single part I could, made by Nighthawk custom. Not just the Trigger, Hammer, Sear & Disconnector, but also the Thumb & Grip Safety, Mainspring Housing, Slide Stop & Safety Plungers & Plunger Tube. The Magazine Release, Slide Stop, Recoil Spring Guide, Plug, Barrel Bushing & a new Barrel Link for proper lock up… Even ALL the pins & grip screws are Nighthawk.. I mean almost everything! And this 1911 I specifically built to fire 450SMC/45 Super, which is quite a stout round! 230gr pills at almost 1150fps & 185gr pills at close to 1400fps from an auto is no slouch! And the Cast Frame is doing just fine. But again, like I said, I wouldn’t recommend building just to have one. The Springfields are great. That was actually the first 1911 I ever owned. A GI model in fact. However, there’s nothing wrong with the Tisas either. Tisas also uses a Forged Frame. But then, I’ve held, inspected, shot, worked on countless RIA 1911’s and never once saw a problem with on it their Cast Frames.