is there and difference between them old vs new? my model 12 is about 12yrs old have there been any changes to these springs since then?
Printable View
is there and difference between them old vs new? my model 12 is about 12yrs old have there been any changes to these springs since then?
General question or are you looking to make changes? There are two styles, basically the old and the new. On some models I believe the old style may still be used. Dave Hobeck has good pictures of the difference and will give a thorough explanation of the differences.
They haven't made any changes to the springs used in the models that use an adjustable firing pin. They have made changes to the multiple springs used in the one piece firing pin. I've noticed in the last year or so that the biggest spring in the Axis rifles are heavier. This was in response to to complaints of FTF. This was no more than a band aid fix, as the real problem lies elsewhere.
The problem is spring Rate. The short springs don’t build enough energy to drive the mass of the striker effectively. So, yeah, they started using a heavier model of the longer spring. But yes, as sharpshooter pointed out, it’s a bandaid. As time & use go, even the new spring will collapse some, losing that slight more energy, and likely bringing back to the same condition.
If you have the 1-piece style Firing Pin with the 2 shorter springs, I recommend retrofitting to the adjustable style. You’ll be happier.
I have not taken the bolt apart yet, I took the bolt out of the action about 10yrs ago and did not uncock the bolt, It still works and snaps the pin forward pretty hard, but I'm worried about it functioning correctly, this is the reason for the post:disturbed:
If it functioned 10 years ago, and you’ve had it sitting in decent environment, free of major corrosion, it will fire.
It has been stored correctly, but being the cocked position! you would think the spring being in a compressed state would weaken it performance?
No, a spring does not lose performance from being stored in a compressed state. Springs wear from the constant loading unloading, (compression/decompression) Think of a soda can tab. When the tab is in either lifted or flat position it will stay in that specific position indefinitely. But when it’s moved back & forth several times, eventually it will snap off from the fatigue. The same is true of spring fatigue.
Thanks Dave,
My pleasure:tea:
This has always been a question of interest for those using magazines. Especially the magazines for defensive carry guns, and whether or not to load/unload the carry magazine(s) daily. The answer being of course No! Best to leave magazines loaded over constantly loading/unloading on a daily basis.
Is there a replacement firing pin spring recommendation? if so, where can one be purchased? This would be for the 1 piece, adjustable firing pin assembly.
No, There is Factory Savage, only. But, as was brought up in another thread, Savage has increased the spring size for the larger factory spring. It can be purchased below. But depending on when your rifle was made it may have already been supplied with the heavier spring. Also, as was said, it’s only a bandaid. You’re better off retrofitting entirely to the Adjustable style firing pin. All the parts can also be found at Gunshack except for the Cocking Pin, which can be purchased from Numrich.
1-piece FP larger spring- https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=3421
Parts for retrofit.
Adjustable style Firing Pin assembly (short action): https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...10-11-12-14-16
Cocking Sleeve: https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=2897
BAS: https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=2894
Cocking Pin from Numrich: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1354170e
While we're on the subject of parts? my build is going from 223rem to 308win, using a PTG bolt head, are all of the parts from the 223rem bolt head like the ejector and the exactor and the pins and spring going to work? or do I need to upgrade them as well?
Yes, all the parts are the same. Everything can be transferred from your 223 bolt head to the 308 bolt head. Only thing is the front baffle may be different. If you have the front baffle with the extended leg on it, you will need the standard front baffle.
The Extractor used ls the same. There is only one Extractor for all bolt bolts. The difference is where the hole for the Extractor Ball & Spring is machined. Below I included pictures of the 223, 308 & 300 WinMag Bolt Heads. Where the extractor ball & spring hood is located dictates where the Extractor stays positioned.
223:
https://i.ibb.co/GnLsh1M/B0691931-46...5-BCB06-E9.jpg
308:
https://i.ibb.co/Ph2fqY2/9247183-D-1...977-B65983.jpg
300WinMag
https://i.ibb.co/RBvSrzN/0-F7315-B4-...-A280-CFDE.jpg
To be honest, I would just order one of these kits anyway. They are worth it!
https://lumleyarms.us/parts-by-make-...or-ejector-kit
I changed my Axis from .223 to .308 and used the .223 extractor. Works for me. But...I don't use the ejector nor do I load from the magazine, so I can't say if those functions work or not. It is short enough to not hang out over the edge.
I can say I've had to force the bolt open a couple times and the ejector was strong enough to rip the rim off a .308 case. :)
The bolt shroud might not present a problem. If the bolt doesn't go back as far as you want just rotate the baffle 180deg and put it back in (at least that's the way it works in an Axis).
There is only ONE Extractor sold. Below is the factory OEM parts Bolt Head kit sold at Gunshack. It states these are parts for all 10/110 Bolt Heads. Again, it’s the Extractor Spring/Ball retention hole position in the Bolt Head that dictates the position of Extractor.
https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...head-parts-kit