7 mag muzzle brake questions/concerns

Hi, I have a 1991 savage 110 L in 7 rem mag, I measured the barrel length at 26 inches with the muzzle brake attached. Here's my main question, did savage install brakes at the factory in 1991? If so, is there a way to get the bugger off? It is showing some wear on the holes closest to the end of the barrel. Almost like pitting. I'm concerned that if I try to twist it off it'll break. I'd like to replace it without having to buy a new barrel....

I'll try to post some pictures of it later today...

Thanks,
Patrick

It could be silver soldered. But my guess is it’s simply frozen. A barrel vice would make things easier. What style brake is it? Does it have flats for a wrench, or simply holes?

It also may be Loctited on, in which case some heat from a heat gun or even a blow drier will help. Try that too.

One of the oldest machinist's tricks to break threads free is a sharp impact with a hammer and punch to shatter a bond. Works great on lugs, studs, bolts and such, but one has to be careful employing that procedure on a gun barrel. Iffen you plan to dispose of the muzzle brake, then I wouldn't hesitate to give it a tapity-tap on the muzzle end with a small hammer. It's already dead - so don't try to kill it. It's the sharpness of the blow, not overwhelming force, which breaks any bonds.

I'm not sure of the style,

Attachment 10134

This is the best picture I have of it at the moment. No flats for a wrench, only holes.

Thank you for the advice :) I'm kinda scared to apply heat (fear of ruining the barrel....), I might give the tapity-tap method a try. Then I'll be able to measure threads as well.

Don't be scared. Try the heat method first. The heat generated from a heat gun or hair dryer pales in comaprison to that of firing cartridges. You are only heating the muzzle brake to warm/hot-to-the-touch. That's all it takes. The barrel will not get any warmer than from that of firing.

That's a radial brake. Do you have a vise with soft jaws? If not use a leather belt or something to hold the barrel in the vise. If not, use your best Kung Fu grip. Find a philips screwdriver that fits all the way through the side (ports) holes. Heat the barrel and use the screwdriver leverage to loosen it. If you still can't, hit the screwdriver handle with a hammer.

Ok. I have a heat gun and access to a vise. Should I use the middle holes or the ones closest to the threaded end of the brake? Assuming lefty loosey, righty tighty? I hope it isn't reverse threaded.....

Use the ones in the middle or towards the muzzle. Lefty loosey looking at the crown! The objective is to heat and cause expansion of the female thread area of the muzzle brake.

Use the holes closest to the barrel/brake joint. The muzzle of the barrel, as Bleeb pointed out. Same for holding the barrel. Grip it as close to the barrel/brake threads as possible. This will yield the most breaking torque. Amazon & other places sell the soft jaws for bench vices that have a round or angled cut out in the two halves, to hold the barrel firmly. (If you have a bench vice). Or, again as pointed out, some leather, or many sheets of paper also work. And yes, a good solid Smack with a large heavy mallet, against the screwdriver or steel rod used in the Brake holes to loosen it. That works wonders. Another old trick is actually using the method of tightening the brake first by smacking the rod, then loosening it. Seems counterproductive, but with seized threads, due to corrosion, it’s almost always easier to break the corrosion bond by tightening just a hair, then loosening, rather than trying to loosen immediately.

Attachment 10141

ROFL

If the brake was installed by a gunsmith or manufacturer they probably used Rocksett which is heat resistant to 2000 degrees.
That's why most professionals use it for muzzle brake installations. Generally not a super duper strong threadlocker but definitely high temp heat resistant.
If Rocksett was used the recommended procedure is to soak it in water overnight before removal.
Good Luck hope this helps
BHJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by big honkin jeep

If the brake was installed by a gunsmith or manufacturer they probably used Rocksett which is heat resistant to 2000 degrees.
That's why most professionals use it for muzzle brake installations. Generally not a super duper strong threadlocker but definitely high temp heat resistant.
If Rocksett was used the recommended procedure is to soak it in water overnight before removal.
Good Luck hope this helps
BHJ

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Good catch. I wouldn't think that Savage would use Rocksett on a radial brake, but maybe they did.