Savage Axis XP Picatinny Rail Questions/Advice

Hello Everyone,


I recently have been working on long range target shooting with my .308 Savage Axis XP. I am seeking advice from shooters about what might be the best path forward for my system.

I purchased a Monstrum Picatinny Rail and after sending ~70 rounds down range I noticed a very slight wobble on the rail. I broke it down and I noticed two major things:

1. The screw second away from me/shooter had broke. (Obviously the vibrations/force broke the screw)
2. The marks on the rail from rubbing against the metal above the ejection port.

When I set up my system I followed torque specs for Monstrum Picatinny Rail.
I used Blue Loctite to ensure the screws wouldn't back out or move over time.
I also used a new screw for the two screws closest to me/shooter: Forster Slotted Oval .200" Diameter Head Screws 6-48 Blue - 1/4"

Just for reference, I was originally using the 1/8" screws but the vibrations were backing them out so I decided to try using a longer screw.

Any suggestions on how to set up my rail better or if there is a better solution?

Thanks for any help!

https://ibb.co/tHtdMkxPhotos for reference

https://i.ibb.co/6yxdRV1/image-67186433.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/d0Kq781/image-67236609.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/8NYkGVK/image-67222017.jpg

Make certain the rail is not either warped or twisted first. Place the rail on the Action on a level service with light behind the Action. Do you see light from under the rail & Action either in the front or rear? That’s a tell.

Most here will recommend using the known brands for their high quality. Warne, Leupold, EGW & Talley are the most notable. There are a few others of smaller companies as well. I’ve trusted & used Talley rails for many years.

Just looking, it seems your rail has some fairly pronounced, uneven machining marks. Just that could be causing induced stress when torquing. One thing you can do is lap the rail to the Action a little better. Get some high grit thin sandpaper. 1000grit maybe. Cut a piece and mold it to the round curves of the Action, where the rail sits. Then set the rail in place & gentle slide forward & back to lightly lap the bottom of the rail surfaces. Also, when setting up, clean the screw holes in the Action with Acetone or Alcohol 100%. The screws as well. Make certain all the threads are 100% free from contaminants. Apply the Blue Loctite & allow to dry on the threads just a bit, before inserting & torquing the screws.

Is it just me or do the holes in the rail seem larger? Just wondered if the rail was drilled for 8-40 and receiver for 6-48.

If they are correct then follow Dave's advise. Loctite needs very clean surfaces to do it's job on such small screws. FWIW, the two mating surfaces provide the friction that helps hold things from moving, which is why the lapping Dave mentioned can help a lot.

Thank you both for the help and advice so far. Once I get the broken screw out I'll try using a higher quality rail as well as lapping the rail before I mount it.

Re:Charlie_b, the perspective on the rail vs. action is probably what you see. The photo I took had the rail close to the camera vs. the action so it might look bigger.

I found this thread re: questions on rear action screw sizes for .308 Savage:

https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...-Action-Screws

Curious, why did you bring up a thread about the Action screws?

Also, I wouldn’t use those Forster screws. Any of the higher quality rails available will have the proper Torx screws included. BTW: what is the Serial # of your Action? Those with Serial Numbers higher than N936371 all have 8-40 screws. But you are positive yours is 6-48?

Here is the Warne rail. (Available standard or 20MOA.)
https://www.amazon.com/Warne-Scope-M...ng%2C75&sr=1-9

And here the Leupold. It’s actually drilled for both the Axis & 110 LA. (Available standard or 20MOA.)
https://www.amazon.com/Leupold-171338-Hunting-Shooting-Equipment/dp/B078NG162K/ref=sr_1_20?crid=2JUHRO1L4XT9K&keywords=Savage%2BA xis%2FEdge%2BPicatinny%2Brail&qid=1698602819&s=spo rting-goods&sprefix=savage%2Baxis%2Fedge%2Bpicatinny%2Br ail%2Csporting%2C75&sr=1-20&th=

If you wanted Talley, I’d recommend getting it directly from Talley as you can specify which screws & they will send the correct. Amazon for instance, only lists the Talley rail with the 8-40 screws.

Re: Action screws, I was looking up other threads to see if anyone else had already posted information on the topic. I think I am getting confused in terminology and confused action screws with the screw holes at the top of the action.
Is the a more specific name for these holes where you screw/mount a picatinny rail?

I actually bought my Savage Axis in 2014. Serial number starts with "J". So looking at other threads I'll need to buy/use 6-48.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...on-Axis-rifles

Not really a special name. Just scope mount screws. And you are correct, the older models used 6-48 screws.

Yes, scope mount, scope base or even scope rail screws is fine. Sometimes just call something exactly what it is. Yes, as Charlie said & you were correct from the beginning: 6-48’s. Oh, just in case you do more reading & come across people talking about 6-48 vs 8-40… don’t ever doubt the 6-48 screws. Don’t let yourself think you need 8-40 screws because of InterWeb stories. Know what I mean? 6-48 screws have been used to secure the mounts on rifles firing heavy Magnums for many decades. And just because you had one break, don’t let that set the tone. I think you had an inferior screw that just failed. As long as high quality rails are used, it won’t be a problem. They are supplied with top quality hardware.

I use 6-48 screws in my Action and although I have the means to perfectly drill/tap my Action for the larger 8-40 screws, I haven’t done so. Why? It hasn’t been needed. If a screw ever strips the threads of the Action, I will do that. But I haven't felt the need just because. Below is my setup. Model 10 Action made in 2008 with Talley 20MOA Picatinny rail.
https://i.ibb.co/QnHq2Lr/468153-B9-3...58-A72-FAB.jpg

The screws don't snap because they are too small. They snap cause they come loose. Then the recoil batters them. Goes back to the mating surface between the rail and the action being the main source of friction keeping the mount from moving.

Everyone thank you so much for the help.

I looked through the picatinny rail options and went with the Talley rail.
When I removed the broken screw I got insanely lucky and the screw pushed out after some drilling and didn't ruin the threads at all!

Pic of my build put back together below.

Thanks again!

https://i.ibb.co/s1bQNM3/rifle.jpg

Glad it worked out for you. Fantastic looking rig.