Machining small parts from Titanium

For many years I’ve always been a fan of exceptionally high quality small parts. The pins, springs, screws, etc. I believe they set Good from Great! Call it placebo. Sure, I’ll concede that. But they make me feel good. It’s the reason I use Titanium screws wherever I can. I’m already using a custom firing pin I machined to fit the bolt head perfectly. And while the Striker is machined from S7 tool steel, I machined a new Cross Pin from 6AL4V Titanium, leaving the striker thicker through that section. Because although factory Savage Cross pins with the larger holes had a habit of breaking, my Ti cross pin won’t.

This past week I also made a Titanium Trigger Pin which fits a bit more snug, and machined a new Cocking Pin from the same 6AL4V Ti. Also machined it to fit more snugly in the Cocking Piece & Cocking sleeve. I just enjoy machining these little parts.

Trigger Pin. Not only more snug fit, but also left the head a bit bigger.
https://i.ibb.co/Fw8WztY/4-BD5-BECE-...8-DEB2-A89.jpg

Cocking Pin. This just fits better in every way. Amazing what a few extra thousands in certain places does overall.
https://i.ibb.co/MM5zsSs/013-EA385-9...ADC5-ED922.jpg


Besides these, my BAS, Bolt Handle & Bolt Knob are also 6AL4V Titanium. The BAS & Handle I got online, but the Bolt Inobi also machined. I’m also working on a Titanium Recoil Lug for the new barrel when it comes.

Nice work . still wish I had my lathe and mill .

Dave, I'm sure you have already discussed the better fit of your cocking pin.
Could you point me to the discussion?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rocketvapor

Dave, I'm sure you have already discussed the better fit of your cocking pin.
Could you point me to the discussion?

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Oh, it wasn’t a discussion on that. Art made a thread about his PTG bolt sleeve and it came to be he has an older factory bolt without the lower section like newer bolt sleeves have. He needed the Cocking Pin with a higher head. I had offered him my factory pin if he wanted to wait until I had finished the Ti pin I had already started on. But I linked the correct part from Numrich which he ordered. And during that, I finished the pin I was making.

Here is the thread.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...-G-Savage-bolt


It’s no biggie. I just measured and went a little heavier in spots. Got rid of the large amount of wiggle the factory pin had in the Cocking Piece. It fits easily, but snug now.

I just made another one of the Trigger Pins. This the the 3rd iteration & the best so far. Perfect snug fit with larger diameter section at the head to locate the Sear Spring loop.

https://i.ibb.co/yXfGHBR/88-E45-B40-...6-C7340-B5.jpg

Great job of machining. I have a PM 1022 Benchtop I have cut several reloading tooling such as top punches, expander plugs, ect. I haven't turned any Ti but I'd like to, any tips on cutting tools, ect. I also have a PM 25MV Mill that I really like making casting molds,ect.
Impressive work. Folks that haven't turned or milled any metal are missing out on a fantastic hobby.

Yes they are! Tips on Titanium. Use Carbide tooling. Problem with Titanium is it has some very unique properties. It’s Hard, but pliable & gets GUMMY at the same time. Unfortunately ya go through tooling fast with it. Try to keep it as cool as you can. That’s the problem. Ti can soak up a tremendous amount of heat and just burns up/tears apart bits.

And be cautious turning it. The fine wire coming off can easily ignite with the heat. It’s a very reactive metal. So keep the chips/wire turnings & millings pile small. If a large pile catches fire, it’s super dangerous. This is why it’s best machined with coolant savage sprayed, CNC machines. But I don’t have that, so I just go slow, spray things with water & change bits more often. LOL!