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Hi, I’m new to Savage rifles a just purchased a new Axis 2 left hand in .223 for my son. When opening the bolt it lifts appx 45 degrees and then sort of hits a wall, it seems to get very tight for the last bit of lift. It feels like sort of a notch that has to be overcome rather than spring compression. This happens whether the firing pin is released or not. Too much force is required to keep on target. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Savage rifles are known for being difficult to cock. No, I cannot stay precisely on target when running the bolt. I can stay in position and keep the tgt in the field of view of the scope. It takes some effort to do so.
But, it could also be a sign the bolt is very dirty. Not unusual for Savages. They sometimes leave a bit of 'grit' in things. And the bolt assembly is not easy to get clean unless you disassemble it (instructions in the sticky section).
Depending on where you bought it you could take it in and see what they say.
Thanks for the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
I bought it on line so I will try to contact Savage. It’s a two hand job to lift, so I can’t keep it shouldered. I tried it side by side with my Mosin, and it took much more force so I’m thinking this is an actual problem.
Thanks
I agree with Charlie. You have to understand, we can’t feel what you are and we don’t know your use with different rifle bolts. The Savage can be quite eye opening fir those not used to it. However, as always, inspect the components for any visual hang-ups; metal flashing or burrs in the receiver, on the bolt, etc. Your rifle may be one a Lift Kit dies even more for than others. https://deshind.com/product/savage-b...ring-pin-2019/ Also, a longer Bolt Handle with larger tactical knob gives a mechanical advantage. I run both of these modifications in any Savage I own.
If you are handy, taking the bolt apart is fairly easy. Then at least you can see if any grit and such is in there before trying to ship it off. FYI, I don't use any oil in the bolt (firing pin and spring tunnel). I do use a light touch of graphite on the FP.
Thanks for the advice! I didn’t find any dirt, but I did see scratching on the pin body below the cocking pin and saw a burr in the bolt body. I polished the pin and body with 800 grit and metal polish and then a light coat of grease on the pin body and bolt cramming surface. It feels better, but still has a lot more cocking effort than I’m used to. I did notice that the spring that holds the cocking pin in doesn’t sit flush on the fp, but that seems to be the way it’s made. I’ll try to get to the range tomorrow and see how it runs.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
As Dave said, running a better bolt handle and tactical knob may help. The Axis II Precision I have at one point I added the bolt lift kit and then removed it later. Different topic for another day, however I added a Glades bolt (longer and slightly different bend) as well as a Area 419 knob. Lot of knob choices out there.
The handle gives much more leverage than the short tucked in OEM one. The 419 knob is the one a buddy doing PRS uses. Has a slight knurling but has a finger grove (360 degrees) and your digits fit well when staying on the rifle while manipulating the bolt.
This will protrude further from the rifle. If your intentions are hutting in thick brush you will want that bolt handle tighter to the stock.
Pretty happy with the upgrade for my rifle. YMMV
https://gladesarmory.com/product-cat...is-right-hand/
https://www.area419.com/product/419-bolt-knob/
Finally made it to the range today to sight in the Axis. Cocking is still a bit stiff, but it seemed to loosen up the more I ran through it. I used Frontier, Winchester white box and Fiocchi range dynamics, all 55 gr fmj. I noticed with the Frontier I had to hit the bolt back to eject, but not with the others. I did shoot the Frontier first though, so it may just have not been broken in. I’ll try it again next time. Of the three the Fiocchi had the tightest groups, but I’ll try again with these three next time as is gets broken in.
I see that the Glases bolt handle is available in left hand, so that might be the next purchase.
Accuracy wise, for $350 I am super impressed!
Glad to here performance was good. It will continue to loosen a little over time. But if you want a bit better, yes, I believe an aftermarket bolt handle would please you very much. As for the ammo, might be those Fiocchi are a tad hot. If you use it again without any issue, it’s fine. If you try the Fiocchi again with sticky cases & it’s the only ammo to exhibit that condition, I’d avoid using it in the future. Doesn’t mean anything is wrong with the rifle. It’s simply warning you that particular ammunition is a touch hot and to be wary. That’s all. Remember it’s a Bolt Action 223 chamber, not an AR15 5.56 chamber.
First thing I do with sticky ammo is clean the chamber good. I know I should do it every time but I don't.
Then I clean and FL resize the cases. Those two things usually solve the problem.
But, sometimes it is just a hot load. According to some, Fiocchi used to have some cartridges they would load on the warm side. Never tried them. Are they labeled 5.56 instead of .223? 5.56 does have a higher pressure 'standard'. Not enough to do any harm (I've fired quite a bit of 5.56 in my .223) but it might be a telling point.
It was the Hornady frontier that was difficult to extract. The white box and Fiocchi were fine. All were .223. I did notice that the anealling(sp?) could be seen on the white box and Fiocchi while the Frontier looked polished. Frontier was stamped IMI, white box LC and Fiocchi GFL. I’ll take the cases in to work see if I can measure a difference(I thrust the Starrets there more than my Harbor Freight).
Any recommendations on the best way to clean the chamber?
Thanks
There can always be a difference among case sizes after firing. That won’t tell you anything. No special way to clean. Just use some nitro/copper solvent. And patch the bore using a rod until the patches come out clean.
I like to have a chamber brush handy. Nothing special, nylon is fine. Not stainless.
Yep. I have used nylon chamber brushes turning them with a cordless drill on slow with bore paste and brass ones, tearing off a small piece of worn out Scotchbright and sticking it to the brush. depends on the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
Which chamber brush do you use? The only ones I’m finding are for AR style with stainless locking lug bristles at the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
Thanks
I don't remember. You could just trim off the SS bristles (a PITA) or just be careful you don't push that portion into the chamber. The one I have for my .308 has nylon bristles for the lug area.
Use a .40cal./10mm brush. 223 case body diam. is like .375”. And I rec. using polymer bristle brushes. They clean great and no need to worry about scratching. Although I think the bore mops with solvent are better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wsr3