Can’t get my ejector out.

I have looked at previous threads about disassembling the bolt head but did not find much useful information about when it doesn’t go as planned. I have a Model 10 BA in 6.5 Creedmore that is not ejecting consistently. I decided to change the ejector spring but was unable to get the retainer pin out. All the videos I’ve seen show the pin pushing out with little or no resistance. However, I have elevated the effort level to using a punch and a steel hammer without effect. I’ve tried pushing from both directions without success. All while compressing the ejector with a piece of brass.
Any suggestions?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foswqsIFBfY

this is the video I used to swap out bolt heads on a FV12 bolt from 22-250 down to 223. No problems for my swap out.

The pin is pushed out from ONLY one side. One side is splined. My guess is, you pushed the wrong side and it’s now jammed in. It may need drilled out/machined at this point, which I don’t recommend doing with a hand drill.

Note: You should have asked here first. It’s not so much the spring, as it is the Ejector needs a small bevel. You can file the bevel easily. This is a known ​issue with ejecting 6.5 Creedmoor cases.

Thanks for the reply. Should I be pushing from the flattened area on the outside of the bolt or through the small hole on the other side? BTW the model 10 BA came with a “blueprinted” action which included the beveled ejector.

The flat portion is where the pin is inserted. So to remove, you punch from the side with just a hole. But like I said, you’ve almost definitely gotten it jammed, and it likely will need drilled out.

Like this.
https://i.ibb.co/TtfBqRg/7-D38-D391-...529713-EC1.jpg

And the Article that came from.
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ll-and-Removal

OP. Do you know what size punch you used? A 1/16"th (.0625") is the same size as the hole. You may end up sanding the 1/16th, or using a 1.5 mm punch. A cut off piece of a # 53, 54, or 55 drill bit(chuck end of coarse and holding it with needle nose pliers).

A good thing to have for your vice is something like these. They help hold things without ruining the finish.( don't tell a welder unless you want to see him tilt his head like a puppy).
https://www.reedmfgco.com/assets/Ima...600550-VC4.jpg

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I soaked the bolt head in Kroil for a week and was able to get the pin out. Whew! Used a 1/16 drill bit and made a few passes back and forth by hand to clear out the channel. Went back together fine.
One side note. Once I had the ejector out I noticed that it was not quite straight. There was a slight bend where the ejector body meets the pin that goes into the spring. I was able to straighten it out by hand. No sign of drag or other resistance. I just thought it was odd.

Awesome news!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gunracr

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I soaked the bolt head in Kroil for a week and was able to get the pin out. Whew! Used a 1/16 drill bit and made a few passes back and forth by hand to clear out the channel. Went back together fine.
One side note. Once I had the ejector out I noticed that it was not quite straight. There was a slight bend where the ejector body meets the pin that goes into the spring. I was able to straighten it out by hand. No sign of drag or other resistance. I just thought it was odd.

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Love Kroil.

Wasn`t this primarily a 6.5 issue? Of course, there are posters on other sites (one in particular ) that would have one believe that there`s NEVER been a Savage rifle produced that coud reliably feed, extract and eject.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Turkeytider

Wasn`t this primarily a 6.5 issue? Of course, there are posters on other sites (one in particular ) that would have one believe that there`s NEVER been a Savage rifle produced that coud reliably feed, extract and eject.

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No, the 6.5 Creedmoor issue was mainly feeding & ejecting. Jamming going in the chamber. Requiring the bolt to drawn back a hair then pushed back in. Or, not ejecting. Upon racking the Bolt, the spent case would jump the bolt head and lay in Action needing removed by hand. Both issues are easily remedied. But you are correct about the misconception of all ​Savages by some.

The ONLY problem at all that I`ve had( since resolved) is with magazines. Savage won`t win any awards with their factory magazines.

Ain’t that the truth! For myself, there’s no reason not to run AICS mags. They’ve been doing these magazines correct for several decades now. For me, any rifle I were to acquire the AICS retrofit is a must-do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Ain’t that the truth! For myself, there’s no reason not to run AICS mags. They’ve been doing these magazines correct for several decades now. For me, any rifle I were to acquire the AICS retrofit is a must-do.

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Dave, I don`t think that there`s an AICS mag that will fit my 110 Storm .223. Am I wrong about that?

No, not as is. Would need either a new bottom metal or Stock/Chassis that accepts AICS. Just my point being that is the only way I will buy a rifle.