Model 10 Trigger Guard Won’t Come Off

Hello everyone,

I am brand new to the forum and to Savage guns, but not to firearms or shooting. I joined specifically to ask this question but plan to participate as ai become more familiar. I searched for this question, and either my searching skills are poor or this question has not been asked frequently.

I acquired a late 90’s model 10 .308 at an estate sale. The synthetic stock is a bit scuffed so I sat down to take it off to work on it. So here’s the issue: the trigger guard will not slip off over the trigger. The trigger is too wide and the slot on the guard is too narrow. I can’t get the guard free enough from the stock to twist it over the trigger.

Is this a common issue? Does anyone have advice on how to get the guard off? I can provide pictures if it would be helpful.

Thanks!

Pictures would be helpful. I wish people would get into the habit of posting pics from the start.

My question, you got it off, right? So it has to go back on. Something tells me you’re attempting to force a square peg in a round hole. A little finesse goes a long way my friend.

Hi,

while I’m trying to figure out how to post images without attaching them, I’ll answer your question. No, I have not got it off. This is the problem.

https://i.ibb.co/CnGx3yh/77-E88-F39-...7-DA7-DFF5.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/H4tT8y1/088-A310-D-...C0-F4-EE36.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Yh0WS53/B6197-C7-E-...6-FF39-E65.jpg

Ahh, ok.. I’m baggin’ what your rakin’!;) So, the Barreled Action just won’t come free from the stock then? This is very difficult to visualize. Need some pics


Use 3rd party hosting. Edit: here you go. https://imgbb.com/

Does it have a trigger shoe on it?

Thanks for the link! That was very helpful. I'm sorry for the size of the pictures

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Does it have a trigger shoe on it?

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That must be it.

I wonder how can I get the thing off without damaging it?

Does that shoe have a set screw in from the side? In your 2nd posted pic it almost looks like I see a witness line from the back of a set screw coming in from the opposite side....

I don't know, I have never personally run across one with a shoe like that. Just an observational question as your pics do not show the opposite side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

Does that shoe have a set screw in from the side? In your 2nd posted pic it almost looks like I see a witness line from the back of a set screw coming in from the opposite side....

I don't know, I have never personally run across one with a shoe like that. Just an observational question as your pics do not show the opposite side.

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Uep, there’s two on the opposite side, so small my smallest hex wrench doesn’t fit. I’d hate to have to drill them out, but what else can Ido?

May have to head to the hardware store tomorrow and buy a couple new smaller hex key wrenches?

I have had good luck in the past of sometimes using a small torx driver bit and using in a partially stripped out hex screw, however do as last resort and be prepared to sacrifice the torx bit.
Best option is find the proper wrench. Then attack from there if that doesn't work.

Worst case scenario you may have to cut the trigger off and replace it. If that does happen a replacement should be easily obtainable and if it is a 1 or 2 screw trigger myself and I am certain many members around here probably have several of those laying around. Again with information given that is worst case scenario and I would try to find the proper wrench first.

Yep! That’s a a trigger shoe alright! Just get rid of that thing. You can pick up a little hex drive set for like $10 at Home Depot, auto parts stores, harbor freight. They have those tiny little drivers..

See why pics are so helpful from the beginning? Had you posted a pic to begin with, my first answer would have told you it was a trigger shoe & has little set screws, LOL! That was at 5:30…You probably would have had time to go out to get one of those sets!:biggrin-new: J/K.

LOL Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

LOL Dave

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Happy new year guys! ;)

.050" is one of the smaller sized American inch system keys. If it is smaller than whet you have than .050" is probably it. 1/16 is the normal smallest key in a set. So you might need to search for one.

Thanks Dave, Sharpshooter, Boots, and Robinhood. I guess my next step is to see what my smallest hex wrench is, and go shopping for something smaller. It’s too late for that tonight. I am not unfamiliar with drilling out screws in old rifles but I agree that this would be a last resort. I appreciate your help and will let you know what happens. This rifle needs some work, but that’s what I like to do!Happy New Years!

While Your looking for the hex wrench/bit, put a drop of penetrating oil on the screw/screws, and let it soak. This often helps. If that fails, this is a case where Left Twist drill bits can be beneficial. The bit grabs the screw and backs it right out. A very small one would be needed for Your application. But if You have to drill those screws out with a regular bit, no great loss. A trigger shoe is not absolutely necessary.

There are smaller. I’d it’s one of these. https://www.amazon.com/0-028-Screwdr.../dp/B01M6C2E3X

Or in MM. https://www.amazon.com/7pcs-set-0-71...1M359D1G&psc=1

Honestly though, in those ultra small Hex sizes they are nearly the same fit. But like I said, you should be able to find one of those little Hex bit Driver kits with the ultra small sizes. Like a “mini” kit. I’ve picked up a couple at various retailers. Now that little trigger shoe is plastic right? Worst comes to, just melt it off. Try a a soldering iron to melt the plastic around the screw bosses.

Okay friends,

they were indeed .050 hex screws, and I procured the wrench from my local Ace Hardware. After soaking the screws in liquid wrench the dang shoe came right off. So, the trigger guard and stock have been successfully removed. Thanks formal your help!



https://i.ibb.co/PsktmYN/6-A646243-D...A010815-CA.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/HqQbvwV/68-D6-B3-BC...FF7-DB9540.jpg

New question!

The next step is rust removal of the metal. Some people
like to reblue, some like to paint, while others insist to leave the metal original. In what camp do you reside? I know those who have the more utilitarian mindset, the hunters and shooters, don’t care as long as the finish is durable, where as collectors believe leaving it original is imperative. What do you all say?

Good news!

Oil & 0000 steel wool. It’s going to take some bluing off. Or, you can soak the barreled action in Evapo-rust or equivalent.

Glad you got that thing off. More problems are created by guys thinking they are going to make things better the " easy " way. Seldom ends up being any benefit at all.

Oh yeah… don’t bother putting that trigger show back on. I sure wouldn’t!

BTW.. since you got the barreled action free from the stock. What trigger is it? Did you happen to get a 3-screw? Can you take a picture?

I like trigger shoes. If it feels better with it, keep on using it. The feel of a rifle can be a personal thing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Oh yeah… don’t bother putting that trigger show back on. I sure wouldn’t!

BTW.. since you got the barreled action free from the stock. What trigger is it? Did you happen to get a 3-screw? Can you take a picture?

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Sorry it took me so long. I don’t have a lot of free time and was just now able to get back to it. Here is the trigger:

https://i.ibb.co/XxkMnQc/78-CE9-B9-D...4-F85-A696.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/BZMNC0S/83-E7-EB52-...2-B174-C43.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/H4DsmhZ/27-C6-A915-...F46686-FD6.jpg
https://ibb.co/m5Fgnjf

Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!:thumb:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!:thumb:

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It looks like a 2 screw to me. the 3 screws were older. https://www.coueswhitetail.com/forum...db01695ae4.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

It looks like a 2 screw to me. the 3 screws were older

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EDIT: I know for a fact, the OP’s picture is a 3-screw. If a trigger has the Sear adjustment screw, it is by definition, a 3-screw trigger.

Ive always called these 3-screw. In the picture, the rear most screw is just difficult to see because it’s adjusted all the way up. Here is his pic blown up.
https://i.ibb.co/cTGZLk1/CECE5221-CF...78-E479729.jpg

This is what I’ve always called a factory 2-screw. It does not have the Sear adjustment screw. But I could be wrong. Still.. I can do nice things to that trigger & make it quite nice!
https://i.ibb.co/37sCz3b/A8-D96-E86-...E229914-DA.png

Yup that's how I have always heard them referred. 1 screw is just safety engagement, 2 screw is safety and over-travel, and 3 screw is sear and safety and over-travel engagement adjusts. If its got the sear screw then it's a 3 screw. Maybe there is some odd-ball out there I have yet to encounter idk but yes OP trigger is the 3 screw.

I have since had a chance to look at my inventory. I have both the old and the new style 3 screw. You are correct David. I missed that one.

Yes, they look different. The older 3-screw, like this, just had that roll pin, to hold the Bar-spring. The new ones were very nicely milled steel with a portion of it’s own to hold the Bar-spring.

Sweet! I’m becoming more enthused with this find every time I learn something new.

So you know.. I offer to all. If you can remove the trigger & Sear and send it to me, I’m happy to polish the mating surfaces to perfect 90% and install one of the Bar springs I make, and install Titanium shims I also make, to eliminate side play. I do this for members here at no charge.

Here is one of past 3-screws I did. Take it apart & clean everything.
https://i.ibb.co/Syrppb6/EA6-F4-B84-...ADE15-ABC5.jpg

Next I polish the mating surfaces. I use a homemade jig & ceramic water stones so the surfaces come out perfectly flat. I’ve said this for many years.. a Dremel is NOT friend to polishing flat trigger surfaces!
https://i.ibb.co/gZMX29m/CD0-E0-CA7-...3971-BFA10.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sgcm6j0/090029-E6-2...599-B0-F62.jpg

Here is the thicker/heavier stock Bar Spring over the much lighter Spring I make. These I make from new .043” spring wire approx, on a spool. And below that, the Titanium shims, laying on top of one of my 6000grit Japanese Water Stones.
https://i.ibb.co/dBLpbmP/0-C7600-A1-...CBF058-E82.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bH9SNbh/ABCC1-F7-B-...-DAA353431.jpg

Dave! That is extremely kind of you! When I get to the point I’m ready for that, I’ll hit you up! I’m assessing the barrel at the moment and considering new stocks. Any suggestions on a good precision stock that doesn’t break the bank, I’m all ears. I’ll also search the forum for that.

Look at Boyds stocks. Also Choate stocks. They are the two lower priced & more “ready fit”. Other than these it’s likely either one of the many different Chassis, or the much higher priced Carbon/Kevlar & Fiberglass stocks. Which besides costing $400, $500+, also require fitting & bedding.