I just bought a circa 2000’s Model 112 in .300 Win Mag. It has a blued receiver and stainless barrel. It is, of course, pre-accutrigger. Will an accutrigger fit this model?
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I just bought a circa 2000’s Model 112 in .300 Win Mag. It has a blued receiver and stainless barrel. It is, of course, pre-accutrigger. Will an accutrigger fit this model?
It has been done, yes. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...to-AccuTrigger
But let me ask, why is it you want the Accutriggger? I mean specifically..what exactly are you looking for the trigger to do?
No particular reason. I have an Axis with the accutrigger and enjoy it. Just dry firing this rifle it seems to have a bit of a heavy trigger. I do believe the sear is adjustable, as it has a set screw on the trigger where the sear trips. I’m just not too comfortable messing with that. The accutrigger seems simpler to adjust.
You are correct. You have the 3-screw trigger. I always liked 'em. Just I like Safe-Action triggers such as the Accutrigger MORE. But the 3-screw trigger in "qualified" hands can be made very, very nice.
Here is a a detailed outline of it for you. If you care to learn a bit. (Always my recommendation)
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ment&styleid=4
Thanks Dave. No, I don’t mind learning about it at all. I’ll gladly read up on it. I appreciate it.
Read up on the trigger. When I get the rifle ready to go, I may try and tweak it a bit.
One other thing, is a one piece rail always preferred on a Savage as opposed to individual rings? Bought the rifle with a EGW rail already on it. I mounted a scope temporarily and would like to get it lower on the receiver. Seems like the rail is adding unnecessary height. Thanks, Matt
ETA: I believe it’s what is considered a flat back receiver.
I always recommend a 1-piece rail. What scope do you have? And what brand & height rings? The height is dictated by the size of the scope...whether 40mm, 44mm, 50mm, 56mm, etc. Also your scope eye level. The height is then CONTROLLED by the rings. The scope mounts with integral rings aren’t necessarily lower. You can also get the integral scope mounts in a 1-piece.
DNZ makes a popular one. It’s not my pick, but I believe Fuj’ here LOVES these!
https://i.ibb.co/0f6wxfG/A9-B5-A0-DE...AC3-FD2014.jpg
check rifle basix triggers. uses coil spring so there is always some preload there unlike a wire spring when you go to light. or chance your wire spring to a lighter wire spring
Preload can be too light with either coil or bow spring. And can be too light with the Rifle Basix as well. Causing it to trip with just a light “bump”. One reason I’m so find of Safe Action triggers, like the Accutrigger. Besides being similar to a 2-stage(after I’m done setting it up), the rifle CANNOT fire without pulling the trigger. It will trip yes, but the safety lever prevents full release of the striker.
Trigger for trigger, I can work & set a 3-screw trigger to be lighter than an Accutrigger. Replace the bow spring with thinner spring wire. Same surface prep...use shims I needed. All that good stuff.
Haven’t bought the scope yet. Probably a Leupold Vx3
Gotchya. Well your scope choice will likely play a roll in the height of ring’s height. But again, the integral scope mounts aren’t necessarily lower than rings on a rail. There is a limit to how low each scope can be, based on the size of objective.
I’ve used an AD-Recon, 1-piece Picatinny mount for the last many years. I’m getting ready to switch scopes with bigger tube & objective. I had planned to get some Tier One rings for it, but at $290 I just couldn’t bring myself to. Instead, I picked up a new ring set for my AD-Recon for $68! Kinda nice they do that. I’m going from 30mm to 34mm main tube & 50mm to 56mm objective. You can see below how high my mount is.
https://i.ibb.co/w42Fnnk/E6-A5-E92-E...6-F2492-F3.jpg
That looks like some really nice rings and rail. I get the whole objective thing. I don’t fully understand putting a picatinny rail on when it isn’t really necessary. I see it a lot it seems on Savage rifles more than any. I thought maybe it was common to help stiffen it up or something.
It does stiffen the Action, yes.. but the real point of a Pic rail/rings is their adjustability in varying position of scope, strength & repeatability. Of course it’s not for everyone. And that is fine. You should go with your gut. I think that DNZ mount I posted might be perfect for you. Like I said, our member Fuj, swears by them. And he Definitely knows his stuff! He’s one of our resident smiths, and does some serious shooting.
This mount would be for yours.. this is their high with 10 scope tube though. So you’d have to research for different. I’m just giving you an example. https://www.amazon.com/Game-Reaper-S...919986&sr=8-12
Gotcha. Man, it seems like that sets your scope up high off the bore axis. I’m all about keeping it as close to the bore axis as possible. May be overkill. But if there’s too much space between the objective and the barrel it grates on me. I’m not disputing what you say. Just stating what I prefer.
Savage is notorious for needing a multi-slot base in order to achieve proper eye relief on the scope. My front rings are all set right in the middle of the closed bolt in order to get the scope far enough back. A 2 piece (even with 1 extended slot) positions the scope much much too forward with no way of correcting it (except to reduce lop which isn't optimal).Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
A 1 piece multi slot base is the way to go if you want to get it right the first time. If concerned about weight, Murphy Precision makes a 1 piece titanium (it's pricey) that saves about 4 ounces.
Just a quick bit of advice to the OP, the long action presents challenges when one tries to get the scope close enough to your eye. The one piece rail gives you greater flexibility when mounting the scope. Even with the rail you may still need a scope that is 14” or more for eye relief requirements.
Yes it does raise the scope but for me eye relief is more important than scope height.
I should have read all the post before offering “advice”!
I get it. Just seems more prevalent on Savages for whatever reason. The rifles don’t look much different in profile than any other bolt action to me. Maybe I’m just not paying attention. At any rate, I bought it with the EGW rail on it already. I suppose I’ll just leave it. Thanks y’all.
They aren't any different. I'm not exactly sure was meant by that. Bolt Actions all share similar scope placements. Savage is no different.
The main reason that most use a picatinny rail on a Savage long action is because depending on the main tube length of the scope, you may not be able to mount it using a 2 pc. base / ring combination.Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
Personally, I'd keep the 3 screw trigger on that rifle. You can adjust them down safely pretty low. It's too bad that Fred (Sharp Shooter Supply) doesn't still sale his Competition trigger for the old staggered feed action's. I have 3 of them and they are sweet trigger's.
All I was saying really is I see this setup a lot on Savages as opposed to a lot of the others. I understand it’s for better scope placement. What I don’t understand is why it is much more common on Savage rifles. It’s just my observation. It may not even be completely accurate. It does seems that way to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
I’m baggin’ what you’re rakin’. ;)
LOL
No? How bout: I’m Smellin’ what you’r steppin’ in?? I AM Pickin’ up what you are putt in’ down brotha!:cool:
The first one I hadn’t heard. It made me chuckle.
Well than, I’m gonna give myself an “A” for effort, my friend. :p Because laughter is priceless;)
Yes sir, you did well! I appreciate all your input on my thread.
I appreciate the thread partner. :thumb: