Rear Grip Striker

So I'm working on a striker project and I'm seriously thinking about moving it to a rear grip to get a better trigger pull in it. I've got the factory trigger breaking now at just a tad under 4 pounds. Not terrible but not as nice as i would prefer.

Question On the rear grip conversion...I would like to put it in an MDT or XLR chassis. I know the action screw spacing is different from the striker vs the standard Savage short action. Is it as simple as me buying a left handed chassis and having my gunsmith drill/tap the bottom of the striker action to put the mounting screws in the right place with the chassis?

Thanks!

I got my trigger really nice, haven't measured, but it has to be near 2 pounds

Not sure about your question but I converted one of mine to rear trigger, added an Elf trigger and dropped into one of Joe Updike's pistol chassis system (Accurate Rifle Systems). It was an easy swap and I love the chassis system.

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Originally Posted by Mrvmax

Not sure about your question but I converted one of mine to rear trigger, added an Elf trigger and dropped into one of Joe Updike's pistol chassis system (Accurate Rifle Systems). It was an easy swap and I love the chassis system.

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I realize the atf requirements but i have a plan to build a rear grip striker from a long action with wood stock. Has anyone done this? Does it make any sense? I can build any barrel length I want with a multitude of calibers.

Left hand Model 12 repeater short action, single shot adapter plate/follower, Accu Trigger. One of the last rear grip stocks to come out of Alaska. Can't remember the makers name but I had to beg to get this one. Carbon fiber over lay with about a zillion coats of candy red clear.
Sold it as it didn't get shot enough. Started out as a .204 Ruger but ended up as a 20 VT. Fluted bolt body be Sharp Shooter Supply, tactical bolt handle for extra leverage, ejector rod/spring removed, brass stays on the bolt head till "I" pick it off.
This Model 12 action is now used in my right hand bench rest thumb hole stock. Right bolt handle slot plugged and re cut on the left side. Right hand stays in the thumb hole for stock/rifle control while free left hand works the bolt and feeds ammo. Hard to go back to a right hand action after shooting this set up.
Attachment 8259

Just a thought but, If you're not "$old" on the chassis style stock system, you might consider a Richard's Micro-Fit laminated pistol grip stock. Cut the back end off just behind the pistol grip, shorten the fore arm to your liking. A little work with a saw and sand paper and you're good to go.
LOTS of laminated colors to choose from. And for the price of the chassis system, you can probably buy 3 or 4 Micro-Fit stocks and whatever you do to it, makes it YOURS!!;)

Another stock to consider for conversion is the Choate Ultimate Varmint. Get one with your action details, cut the rear off and sand/finish. I have one I have done this way and like it alot. Here's the link to a Savage long action left hand:

https://www.riflestock.com/store/pro...k-center-feed/

Here's a pic of my finished version. If it's a rifle action just keep the barrel length longer than 16" and overall length longer than 26". This one is a 17" .223 and overall is 27".

Pic won't work for some reason...trying to add it again....can't get it to work, here's a link to click

My Savage Ultimate Varmint

Since I started this thread I ended up keeping my Striker as a center grip...

gen 1 or gen 2 trigger?

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Originally Posted by cknight814

Here's a pic of my finished version. If it's a rifle action just keep the barrel length longer than 16" and overall length longer than 26". This one is a 17" .223 and overall is 27".

Pic won't work for some reason...trying to add it again....can't get it to work, here's a link to click

My Savage Ultimate Varmint

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Nice picture, this was a short action I presume I am starting with a long action and can keep those lengths.? What did it weigh, did you holster it or use a sling?

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Originally Posted by cknight814

So I'm working on a striker project and I'm seriously thinking about moving it to a rear grip to get a better trigger pull in it. I've got the factory trigger breaking now at just a tad under 4 pounds. Not terrible but not as nice as i would prefer.

Question On the rear grip conversion...I would like to put it in an MDT or XLR chassis. I know the action screw spacing is different from the striker vs the standard Savage short action. Is it as simple as me buying a left handed chassis and having my gunsmith drill/tap the bottom of the striker action to put the mounting screws in the right place with the chassis?

Thanks!

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that would work, what trigger system do you currently have gen 1 or gen 2?

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

that would work, what trigger system do you currently have gen 1 or gen 2?

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I honestly don’t remember exactly which it was. I ended up leaving it a center grip, as it is a 308 and 3.5-4 pounds is good with me for a hunting pistol. It’s crisp and smooth.

I’m currently building another striker in 6.5 Grendel, and this action is a Gen 2. I haven’t put a gauge on it yet, but the trigger on it feels very nice.

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Originally Posted by mnbogboy2

Nice picture, this was a short action I presume I am starting with a long action and can keep those lengths.? What did it weigh, did you holster it or use a sling?

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Yes that one in the pic is a short action. A long action will easily be over 26” with a 16” barrel. This girl here is heavy, it’s a 12FV at heart and the barrel is a heavy varmint profile. That stock is full aluminum bedding blocks also. Scope and all, I’m guessing 8-9 pounds? I’ve never took it hunting just playing from the bench at targets and steel. If I were to carry it it would definitely be a sling setup.

if it has a lever that tips the front of the trigger you can use a Rifle Basix 110 rifle trigger and cut the finger spur off. they use coil springs and are more adjustable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cknight814

Here's a pic of my finished version. If it's a rifle action just keep the barrel length longer than 16" and overall length longer than 26". This one is a 17" .223 and overall is 27".

Pic won't work for some reason...trying to add it again....can't get it to work, here's a link to click


My Savage Ultimate Varmint

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One last question; whatdidyoubuildthe back of the grip up with?

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Originally Posted by mnbogboy2

One last question; whatdidyoubuildthe back of the grip up with?

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With this stock, I didn’t build it up… just cut off the rear and sanded until I was happy with it. Here’s a link to the Specialty Pistols forum post that has many more pics and details about it. Sorry to just link you to another site but I’ve already got it typed up there with pics embedded

https://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/...496#1780066496

Thanks for the link again ck, I read through thewholethread. Nice work. My biggest question is about the rchoate trapdoor? You fastened an aluminum bar to that trapdoor and then shaped the bottom of the pistol grip from the aluminum.
Is the trapdoor choate pistol grip cap over a hollow pistol grip? I removed the pistol grip cap from a savage tupperware stock. I believe I can fashion an aluminum plug to fit in the hollow savage stock and then epoxy it in place. I would drill and tap the aluminum plug to fasten my version of a pistol grip cap. I didn't saw the stock off yet ad you show in your pictures but I am hoping it is solid as you'd was. Will I be able to paint it all after I'm ginished? What primermight work on thetupperware? I haven't researched that yet.
Thanks again for all your help, I hope I'm not being too much of a pita.

That wasn’t me that fastened the aluminum bottom plate, that was another member on there. That was so the rear grip of the pistol could slide easily on bags. The bottom cover does indeed cover a hollow cavity though on the choate ultimate varmint stock.

Im not sure 100% understand what your saying about the savage Tupperware stock, but it sounds like you are trying to fabricate a straighter pistol grip for a factory stock? Not sure how that would work, I know the rear area behind the grip is hollow on a lot of those and cutting it off wouldn’t be as straightforward as with the choate ultimate Varmint stock. I honestly don’t know that I would put that kind of effort into it.

You could easily paint it, a lot of people who camo paint stocks don’t use primer but just run a Google search on “spray paint gun stock” and you’ll find a lot of ideas for that.

Thanks again ck, I would like to modify the grip to more straight up and down by adding to the front of it ( bondo or epoxy) the savage stock is hollow in the grip area. Originally I was going to modify a wood savage stock, adding material with that one would definitely be easier. I researched quote a bit yesterday for painting tupperware like you suggested. The barrel work right now has me busy before I begin actual stock work.