Hot Loads - Is the brass ok?

I learned a lesson about load development last week. In the 90 degree heat, some of my 6BR loads were running quite a bit hotter than what the published load data suggested and I should have stopped sooner. I wasn't paying enough attention to ALL of the signs of pressure and ended up with some brass that has obvious case head swipes. Some of them also have an imprint of the mechanical ejector slot on the TL3 bolt head.

I am setting aside the cases with the deeper ejector imprint. For the ones with only swipe marks, I thought I might just clean those up and keep reloading them. I figure I don't want to reload a case with visible case head marks due to not knowing if the marks came from older loadings or the most recent one.

Does this sound reasonable or should I view these cases with more suspicion?

Thanks

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Originally Posted by Bill2905

I learned a lesson about load development last week. In the 90 degree heat, some of my 6BR loads were running quite a bit hotter than what the published load data suggested and I should have stopped sooner. I wasn't paying enough attention to ALL of the signs of pressure and ended up with some brass that has obvious case head swipes. Some of them also have an imprint of the mechanical ejector slot on the TL3 bolt head.

I am setting aside the cases with the deeper ejector imprint. For the ones with only swipe marks, I thought I might just clean those up and keep reloading them. I figure I don't want to reload a case with visible case head marks due to not knowing if the marks came from older loadings or the most recent one.

Does this sound reasonable or should I view these cases with more suspicion?

Thanks

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I would not be afraid to use them if they have had only 1 or 2 hot loads. I would definitely drag the case head across a super fine file or emery to make sure they resize and trim true

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Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel

I would not be afraid to use them if they have had only 1 or 2 hot loads. I would definitely drag the case head across a super fine file or emery to make sure they resize and trim true

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I agree. If the primer pocket is gone then no, do not use.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I agree. If the primer pocket is gone then no, do not use.

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Glad you pointed that out, I realized after I posted that I should have thrown primer pocket fit in there but I was pretty sure someone would throw that out there:)

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An advantage of using a hand priming tool is that you can feel the condition of the primer pocket as you seat them.
The ones that go in very easily should be challenged by rapping the edge of the case on something like the bench top.
If the primer pops out, or even partially out, its best to discard the case without firing it again.
Another thing to watch for is a brighter colored ring around the case just above the web section near the head.
Unfortunately those who insist on keeping their brass shiny new in appearance wont always see it.
Take a wire paper clip and straighten it, then put a small 90 degree bend on one end.
Use that to reach into the case feeling for cracks around the base that have formed on the inside and not showing on the outside of the case.
Another firing with such a case is sure to separate the case and could cause injury.
Another reason to be wearing good eye protection.
Surprisingly, there are some very fussy people who are also very frugile when it comes to spending money on brass.
Ive known a few who will smear lock tite or super glue over a loose primer in order to get one more firing from the case.

If it is very hard to find brass or very expensive brass ....Epoxy the primers in ...they will never leak on you.

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Originally Posted by yobuck

An advantage of using a hand priming tool is that you can feel the condition of the primer pocket as you seat them.
The ones that go in very easily should be challenged by rapping the edge of the case on something like the bench top.
If the primer pops out, or even partially out, its best to discard the case without firing it again.
Another thing to watch for is a brighter colored ring around the case just above the web section near the head.
Unfortunately those who insist on keeping their brass shiny new in appearance wont always see it.
Take a wire paper clip and straighten it, then put a small 90 degree bend on one end.
Use that to reach into the case feeling for cracks around the base that have formed on the inside and not showing on the outside of the case.
Another firing with such a case is sure to separate the case and could cause injury.
Another reason to be wearing good eye protection.
Surprisingly, there are some very fussy people who are also very frugile when it comes to spending money on brass.
Ive known a few who will smear lock tite or super glue over a loose primer in order to get one more firing from the case.

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Originally Posted by Wallyl

If it is very hard to find brass or very expensive brass ....Epoxy the primers in ...they will never leak on you.

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I have seen a guy use superglue but never Epoxy. I wasn't impressed with the philosophy.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I have seen a guy use superglue but never Epoxy. I wasn't impressed with the philosophy.

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I definitely agree with hand priming.. i have the Frankford Arsenal perfect prime... i love it, performs flawless, heavy duty and definitely can feel the primer seat.. another indication, I use Lee Universal deprime die and you can feel how easily the primer pops as well

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I still use my ancient Lee hand prime and you can definitely feel what's going on when the primers are being seated. These Lapua 6BR cases have the tightest primer pockets I have ever worked with.

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Originally Posted by Bill2905

I still use my ancient Lee hand prime and you can definitely feel what's going on when the primers are being seated. These Lapua 6BR cases have the tightest primer pockets I have ever worked with.

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If you ever break the thumb lever dont throw the tool away.
Ive seen them on Ebay, unfortunately too late for me.

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Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel

I definitely agree with hand priming.. i have the Frankford Arsenal perfect prime... i love it, performs flawless, heavy duty and definitely can feel the primer seat.. another indication, I use Lee Universal deprime die and you can feel how easily the primer pops as well

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I'm really hoping by changing all my 308 win and 6.5 creedmoor to small primers that I will see increase in brass life. Never really had a issue with necks splitting, always have annealed brass before 3rd load and has worked out well.. especially with harder brass like lake city LR, I have a 250 piece of it that is same lot but ran into issues resizing until I started annealing it. Have not ran into doughnuting that I've read about, wondering if that is product of keeping consistent flow on the brass from annealing and my bolt gun brasses I still FL resize when I anneal it. Use forster FL resize dies, hornady bushing for neck sizing and forster seating dies with forster coax press and then 5.56, 6.5 creedmoor and 6.5 grendel use LE Wilson chamber seater with K&M arbor press

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