Trigger options

I have a model 12 LRP with the target accutrigger. It adjusts down pretty low, not sure how low as I don’t have a trigger scale. It just doesn’t feel consistent and it trips pretty easy (side pressure or close bolt a little hard occasionally). I was looking at other trigger options because let’s face it, most of us are always chasing something “better”. I know options are limited and I don’t have a way to test any out without purchasing which would get very expensive. So any of you went from a target trigger to anything else and felt like it was an improvement? Jard’s 3 lever complete trigger intrigues me, rifle basix 2, even the elftmann trigger is unique. Any opinions on those or something else that I should consider? I appreciate the help on my Gun addiction. Lol

If you shim the Accutrigger to eliminate the left to right float you will see some improvement. Otherwise look for a used SSS trigger, a SavII or the Jard. Don't have any feedback on the Elftman

The Jard is the “best” available as it has its own sear. ALL other triggers use the stock sear. Your target Accutrigger has the better sear. As Robin has said, a couple shims on the sides of the trigger will make a noticeable difference. Setting it up the way I do and it would feel like a top quality trigger.

What do you use for shims? Just some thin metal washers? That sounds like the cheapest option which I definitely like.

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Originally Posted by Ramstud41

What do you use for shims? Just some thin metal washers? That sounds like the cheapest option which I definitely like.

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I haven't tried these, but by reading the very detailed description they seem perfect for the intended application.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TriggerShim...sAAOSwImRYbAbM

I machine my own, but yes...those will work. Or just standard shim stock. Even old feeler gauges.

Yes, You can get trigger shim washer kits online. I have made them by thinning down brass washers, but it is time consuming. The Rifle Basics Sav II can also benefit from shims.

Dave Hoback, do You use the Jard 3 lever trigger for competitive Bench Rest Shooting?

In spite of of the fact that the SSS trigger uses the factory sear, I find it works very well. Too bad they are no longer made.

Can an SSS trigger be made to work on a rifle that came with a Target Accutrigger ?

Is anyone shooting Bench Rest with the Accutrigger blade removed.

I hope this post is in line with the OP’s questions :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by GrenGuy

Yes, You can get trigger shim washer kits online. I have made them by thinning down brass washers, but it is time consuming. The Rifle Basics Sav II can also benefit from shims.

Dave Hoback, do You use the Jard 3 lever trigger for competitive Bench Rest Shooting?

In spite of of the fact that the SSS trigger uses the factory sear, I find it works very well. Too bad they are no longer made.

Can an SSS trigger be made to work on a rifle that came with a Target Accutrigger ?

Is anyone shooting Bench Rest with the Accutrigger blade removed.

I hope this post is in line with the OP’s questions :rolleyes:

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Good questions. I’m looking for more info on the triggers. I’m a knowledge guy and always look for as much as possible. I wish SSS still had his competition triggers. I know the target accutrigger is supposed to be the best that savage offers, I just feel like it lacks some. I don’t know if I would shoot it without the blade on it. As easy as it seems to trip while closing the bolt(and I’m not closing very hard) would make me nervous. I could increase the weight some and should cut that down.

The Jard 3 lever interests me since it is a complete u it. The only thing is that it is fairly new and so not a whole lot of reviews on it. I’m from a smaller community so no one here has one to try, plus a lot of them have bought into the Remington hype ;) The other thing is the cost. It is fairly expensive but I could recoup some of the cost by selling my accutrigger. Sorry for the long post. I’m rather wordy sometimes

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Originally Posted by GrenGuy

Yes, You can get trigger shim washer kits online. I have made them by thinning down brass washers, but it is time consuming. The Rifle Basics Sav II can also benefit from shims.

Dave Hoback, do You use the Jard 3 lever trigger for competitive Bench Rest Shooting?

In spite of of the fact that the SSS trigger uses the factory sear, I find it works very well. Too bad they are no longer made.

Can an SSS trigger be made to work on a rifle that came with a Target Accutrigger ?

Is anyone shooting Bench Rest with the Accutrigger blade removed.

I hope this post is in line with the OP’s questions :rolleyes:

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No, I do not have the Jard. I actually LOVE my Accutriggers. I learned how to perform professional level trigger jobs many years ago...and over that time, I’ve honed the craft to a science!

I realized long ago that the “trigger” market is one of the largest money makers there is. Everybody wants to replace their trigger, on EVERY GUN! And they are SOOO expensive!

I perform my own trigger jobs, because I like saving money. I am quite happy with my results. I don’t just do shims. I stone the sear & trigger angle contact surfaces in a jig I designed. And I use a completely different spring from the factory style.

In reality, simply having a “super light” trigger, does NOT improve accuracy. Knowing YOUR specific trigger in & out lends to best accuracy results. While a good trigger will benefit the shooter, simply having a 1lb pull over a 2lb pull is in NO WAY a guarantee to better accuracy.

I have heard of several people removing the safety blade from their Accutriggers. Very easy to do, and won’t cause any harm... in and of itself of course. Again, I actually prefer the safety blade as it’s the closest we Savage shooters can get to a 2-stage trigger. It comes down to preference.

Thanks for the the reply Dave. And thanks to the OP in hopes we are contributing to the original question. I do My own trigger work and have been successful up to the point of good Hunting triggers. I can get an old “Piano Wire” trigger to a sharp, clean, 2 1/2 # break. I actually enjoy shooting these triggers. One thing I have never been able to tolerate is “creep”. That is what got me started working on my own triggers.

Lately I have gotten into long range Bench Rest shooting. In Heavy Gun class, I shoot a 62# rifle. I shoot it free recoil because, looking through a 40 power scope, if I touch that rifle, the cross hairs move. So it is critical to have a light, clean breaking trigger. I have tried almost every trigger.

“If” I could get an Accutrigger to consistently work around 6ozs, without the blade, I would be interested. It seems this would mean going in a different direction from the actions I currently have. Converting to Accutrigger does not seem simple.

All help is greatly appreciated :cool:

The Stock Target Accutrigger goes down to 6 oz. pull. I had issues, sent it back to Savage (out of warranty) and they replaced the entire trigger and housing gratis. It was recommended I go no lower than 8 oz., and no problems since. Bench buddy had same issue and he raised the pull to about 10 oz. and no further problems.

^ Thanks, good information well received ^

I have found with the aftermarket Savage triggers I have and have tried, generally they cannot be set as low as advertised.

The SSS is an exception. I think Fred suggested setting it no lower than 12ozs? I have gotten it down to 8ozs, however, I once set it in a warm area and when I took it to a colder area, it dry fired when the bolt closed. Had to readjust it.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

No, I do not have the Jard. I actually LOVE my Accutriggers. I learned how to perform professional level trigger jobs many years ago...and over that time, I’ve honed the craft to a science!

I realized long ago that the “trigger” market is one of the largest money makers there is. Everybody wants to replace their trigger, on EVERY GUN! And they are SOOO expensive!

I perform my own trigger jobs, because I like saving money. I am quite happy with my results. I don’t just do shims. I stone the sear & trigger angle contact surfaces in a jig I designed. And I use a completely different spring from the factory style.

In reality, simply having a “super light” trigger, does NOT improve accuracy. Knowing YOUR specific trigger in & out lends to best accuracy results. While a good trigger will benefit the shooter, simply having a 1lb pull over a 2lb pull is in NO WAY a guarantee to better accuracy.

I have heard of several people removing the safety blade from their Accutriggers. Very easy to do, and won’t cause any harm... in and of itself of course. Again, I actually prefer the safety blade as it’s the closest we Savage shooters can get to a 2-stage trigger. It comes down to preference.

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I don't understand why Savage went to the Accutrigger in the first place. The standard trigger on my nephews 110E .270 is the sweetest, lightest, and smoothest trigger that I have ever squeezed. And that was even BEFORE I cleaned it! It was like butter!

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Originally Posted by 000Robert

I don't understand why Savage went to the Accutrigger in the first place. The standard trigger on my nephews 110E .270 is the sweetest, lightest, and smoothest trigger that I have ever squeezed. And that was even BEFORE I cleaned it! It was like butter!

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Because “New” things with catchy names sell products! Plus, the entire firearms industry has morphed in terms of being ever safer year after year. In California firearms MUST have specific safety features to even be eligible for sale! Simple as that.

Not for nothing, but there are some of us who do enjoy the “Safe Action” style triggers. Now I never had a problem with Savages I’ve owned in the past using the standard style triggers. However, I would choose the Accutrigger over the standard, any day of the week.

^ Before I’m done, I could see Myself going with an Accutrigger. It would be for Bench Rest use only and I would want it to function in the 6oz range or lower. A safety is not necessary. My trigger requirements are solved for anything over 1#, but that is too much for Bench Rest. I hesitate to go with a Savage Target action, with the Red target trigger, because it requires Large Shank barrels. All My barrels are small shank.

I don’t think I want to mess with converting a pre Accutrigger over, and I will not have a bottom bolt release.

So, if I get a 12FV for a doner build, how difficult is it to convert to the Target Accutrigger? Thanks to the great help on this site, we know the part #’s for everything we need. But some say they sign a waver, and get their parts. Some say they are told by Savage this cannot be done. I’m too impatient to try to scavenge up parts off of classifieds. If I’m turned down by the girl on the phone, can I ask for “Mr Savage” himself to get results? Any help in this direction would be greatly appreciated.

Meanwhile, that Elftman trigger looks interesting. It appears so simple I don’t see what prevents it from going lower than 1.25#’s ? Maybe fear of the lawyers? Looking forward to a review on this trigger.

I hope this post and possible answers are consistent with the OP’s needs :cool:

I like the “2-stage” feel of the accutrigger. I know it’s not a true 2 stage but it has the feel. I just don’t like having to be careful closing my bolt. I also don’t like the thought of spending a bunch of money on a marginally better trigger. Those of you that do your own trigger work on the accutrigger, what all do you do? Is there a tutorial to watch or read? I may try to perfect my target accutrigger and see how it goes. I’ve done work on my pistols and ar triggers and even an older 3 screw trigger, but haven’t messed with polishing or stoning the accutrigger. Any advice on what works best or offers the most improvement?

The 12 FV already has the Varmint/Target Accu-trigger. Mine came from the factory set at 1 lb. 9 oz. and I have had no problem with it.
It adjusts down to 1.5 lbs, but when the trigger pull gets close to the advertized minimum, some of the triggers get a bit sensitive to any side pressure on the safety tab.

I had one Savage Varmint/Target trigger on a Model 10 .308 that loosened up after about 3,000 rounds so I know what happens.
I never could tell when I was pressing the tab to the side but the rifle does and thinks the trigger is being jostled so it locks the trigger up.
I could eliminate the problem by being extra careful touching the tab but that was not conducive to consistent shooting.
When I measured the trigger pull, I found it had loosened up and was below the minimum.
I adjusted the trigger back to 2 lbs, put a drop of Loktite on the set screw, and haven't had the problem again.

The 12 LRP that the OP describes has a Precision Target Accu-trigger.
It has a red tab and can be adjusted down to 6 oz.
I presume that set to the lowest pull weight, it too may become sensitive.
My 12 LRP came from the factory set at 10 oz and functioned perfectly, but because all of my other target triggers were set at 2 lbs., it was too sensitive for me to maintain consistency when I switched rifles.
I adjusted it to 1 lb. 2 oz. so I wouldn't notice the difference as much.
The accuracy didn't suffer.

I doubt anyone other than a competition bench rest shooter would notice the difference between 6 oz and 10 oz. when shooting a full session with the same rifle.
I know I can't.
But I did notice the difference between 10 oz. and 2 lbs. when I was switching between rifles with different pull weights during the same session.

^ YES ^ We can tell a difference

I've had good results out of Timney triggers for whatever that's worth

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Originally Posted by Ramstud41

I like the “2-stage” feel of the accutrigger. I know it’s not a true 2 stage but it has the feel. I just don’t like having to be careful closing my bolt. I also don’t like the thought of spending a bunch of money on a marginally better trigger. Those of you that do your own trigger work on the accutrigger, what all do you do? Is there a tutorial to watch or read? I may try to perfect my target accutrigger and see how it goes. I’ve done work on my pistols and ar triggers and even an older 3 screw trigger, but haven’t messed with polishing or stoning the accutrigger. Any advice on what works best or offers the most improvement?

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I agree about the feel of the two stage trigger. I like it.