For a non-professional swapping Savage barrels, does one brand of headspace gauges matter over another, i.e. Forster or Clymer?
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For a non-professional swapping Savage barrels, does one brand of headspace gauges matter over another, i.e. Forster or Clymer?
No, any of the trusted brands will do their job.
I have found that they vary from different manufacturers, but they are still within the tolerance range of gauges.
I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge.
It never stops amazing me that when someone who is trying to learn how to work on their own gun that people who he believes really know would offer such crude advise.
Just measured my go/no goes 6.5 creedmoor at a difference .0035, my 308 .003, 22/250 .004.
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I use cheap feeler gauges as shim stock all the time. The bolt could care less where that extra .003" came from. And if you want to get the spacing tighter than spec you can easily do so.
No go gauges are meant for production situations. It's an easy way to tell whether something is within production tolerances. Most professional gunsmiths don't bother with no go gauges on custom built rifles either, there are better ways to measure than feel. The most sensible way is to use a go gauge and a strip of plasti-gage. It will tell you exactly how much clearance you have past the go gauge.
I guess it depends on how much a guy cares about how his gun turns out.
I run .0015 headspace on my bolt 223. and I carefully check and reset until that is what I have. When I resize I hold my brass to .001 headspace.
Actually the use of some shim stock makes good dollars for cents sense for the no-go, but I'm picturing a "monkey and a football" trying to keep that little circle of shim stock in place between the go gauge and the bolt face. Although a tiny dab of Vaseline would likely hold it in the bolt face without altering the length we are trying to measure. Or better yet clamping the barrel vise in a more vertical orientation.
Funny. Not exactly sure what is “crude”. Never actually gave any advice. Simply was saying what I do. Used to use the ol’ scotch tape trick everyone knows...and ya know what? Ain’t never had a single problem with that method. But awhile back I was using feeler gages for different machining tricks and thought, “hmmm”. Went and checked, and last one I set up WON’T close with a .003” shim on the base of the “Go”. So it’s under .003” headspace. I could use a .002” shim and set it lower, but where it is quite alright.
I don’t have much in the way of “throw away money” see. I need to keep spending pretty light. Saving the cost of $30 on a “No Go” gauge may seem like nothing to some, but to me that $30 can be much better served in the form of a couple end mills or other machining tidbits.
So I fail to see what us “Crude” in that?
How do you measure that close? I mean how do you set your headspace that close without using shims ? Do you have an in between gauge? Could a guy turn a new one on the lathe and then just "snug" it up?
I've done a hundred or so savage barrels and I still only use a go gauge & scotch tape & feel. Recently I headspace my 5 different 6.5 Creeds as close as I could get them by "feel" so I could use the same reloading die setting. Couldn't do it, one was .0005 off.
I just changed the recoil lug on my 260 Rem. 110 using only a go gauge.
When putting brass fired in that rifle in my Model 7 Remington in 260 Rem, the bolt closes easily so I think it's OK. That's not the way I like to do things though so I now have a no go gauge for when my new Shilen arrives.
I wouldn't be afraid to use the shim method either, just didn't think of it.
Not sure how he does it. There is a Forster set that comes in .001 increments. The difference between go and no is .006 in his .223 I believe. I personally try for the middle but I have a few that are on the loose end of the spectrum for use in places with things that bite back. Honestly I think the loose ones are more accurate.
I wish I could set brass up to resize to within a half a thou of headspace consistently and measure it accurately. A little too much lube, a speck of crud, etc., and I’m out.
Thanks gb,
I was aware of those, but testing the poster's claim. Holding his tolerances on brass is easy with good control of annealing, lube & sizing technique. But the average guy doing only one common caliber is not probably going to achieve those results because of differences in brass and technique.
More power to him if he does and hoping he could share this with others.
Wasn't trying to offend anyone.
Howdy & welcome to ya Robert. Here is a piece of advice I will give. “ make it your point to learn at your pace. If you are able to teach yourself, kudos”
I started light Gunsmithing work over 20 years ago. Building firearms for me came at the end of the Clinton AWB. This, after the ban expired in ‘04, was the “beginning” of the DIY firearms builders movement. Even though some like talking about building them before, heck even in the 80’s! Which is sheer nonsense.
For ever & ever, Gunsmithing has been mainly an “Old Boys Club”. Very similar in the world of Knifemaking, rather, knifesmithing. After centuries of being told how “other worldly” the knives & Guns made by these smiths are, well they just can’t help but believe the rhetoric themselves. Most of ‘em don’t like me because I openly release every secret I come across. I also run into hate which takes the form of “How dare this one armed cripple think he can do what WE do”!
My advice is learn on your own. NEVER pay someone to learn. It will be easy to find who to & NOT to listen to. Look for Anger. When a person “calls out” another, and you can “hear” the anger in there confrontation. Not someone I would want to from. Just pay attention. Quickly you'll see the trends.
Thanks, Dave! I hear you. I am not learning alone. I have been purchasing armorers courses from AGI to get a jumpstart on Gunsmithing. I wanted to start the professional gunsmithing course from AGI, but I cannot pay for it in total and they stopped the payment plans.
And I am also learning from experts on the forums!
Holding close tolerances on brass is just a matter of spending the time. Also having good accurate equiptment. I always use the same brand of brass. I have a luxuary most do not have TIME. I also spent a life time as an engineer and tool maker. Setting the headspace on my guns I have a good feel, I fire 5 new rounds and record my readings. If I am not happy I do it over.
Probably I was to harsh in my statement, What ever works for you. My thoughts on teaching to work on their gun is teach the proper method and if he wants to shortcut let him thank that out on his own, after all we do not know what his skill level is.
Thanks azguy for clarification and adjusting MY attitude.
We are all in this together and transferring our experience to the youngsters and newcomers is most important.
Personally, I only use go gauges, tape and feel. I actually have a no go gauge or two but have never used them.
However, a novice could get that extra bit of self-assurance using one on his first and early barrel installs.
It would always be best to learn while in the presence of experience but for some that is not always possible.
There was actually no "crude" advice given but as I feel now my comment was rude and I apologize.
Your method of taking your time to get it right is definitely my method. I will tighten & loosen that barrel nut 5 times if that what it takes to get the "feel" I want on the go gauge. After a while it gets easy and seems routine, but to someone who's never done it, they can easily become overwhelmed or discouraged.
Hoping that the OP learns the process and reads as much as possible from this forum and others and tackles his first barrel with confidence. There are even a few videos out there describing the process.
Randy
I didn't read all of the post on this thread, so I appoligize in advance if I touch on issues that are resolved.
It is awesome that you are looking to become a Savagesmith. Gunsmithing is quiet different and much more advanced than adjusting a trigger or swapping a barrel on most Savage rifles.
A go gauge is all that is needed. Remove the firing pin for a better feel and to protect the tip in case of a accidental release of the sear.
For a no go, a shim in the bolt face made from a aluminum can can be cut by scissors and a relief cutout for the ejector works well for me.
Index marks with a marker and a scale on the barrel and recoil lug and action before tightening will tell you if your action and barrel have maintained their position or have rotated during the tightening process. A small amount of rotation changes the headspace significantly. The marks are removed with alcohol.
While your firing pin is out, it is a good time to test your ammo in your chamber.
Good debate often refines all of us to be better and get new ideas. You can learn a lot even from an idiot.
While I do agree with you on a philosophical level, I think AOC and Omar may be exceptions.Quote:
You can learn a lot even from an idiot.
Even there, we have learned that leftist are intolerable, criminal in there methods and anti American. Democrats were not anti second amendment. They were also pro worker at one time. Pro free market. Pro America. The party was hijacked and with out the ones mentioned we may never have seen the transition until it was too late.
I think it was Roosevelt that actually warned the houses and the country that the Democrat party had been infiltrated by the communist party and told us that this was going to happen... I may be wrong about it being roosevelt but I'm pretty sure it was him
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Hence McCarthyism. Good when its for America but as we are learning it is also practiced by the Communist. Fight fire with fire
I think Kennedy saw it coming also.. not to sound like a conspiracy theorist but I DO believe that is why he was taken out.. he despised communism and its economic counterpart socialism. Kennedy was very much a conservative in alot of ways (before people get the undies in a bunch, notice I used the word ALOT, he was not conservative party)
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Ted, Robin & Bill.....right on..
Agree with you all.
Robin my friend, I read this with a HUGE smile on my face brother!
Republicans- I toil & work, and I eat.
Demonrats- YOU toil & work, and “I” eat!
Here are a few FACTS that people gave “conveniently” forgotten about:
“The democrat party defended slavery, started the Civil War, opposed reconstruction, founded the Ku Klux Klan, imposed segregation, perpetrated lynchings and fought AGAINST the Civil Rights acts of the 1950’s & 60’s.
President Johnson and the Democrats were against the 13th Amend. Which abolished slavery, the 14th Amend. Which gave citizenship to blacks & the 15th. Amend. Which gave blacks the right to vote.”
Hijack Alert! What Say Yea Moderators :confused:
In this day and age you have to inject the truth in whenever you can because the young people aren't getting it in school or college anymore. They are only getting "selective" history.
We can't give them an "inch" or we will end up losing more rights and even the opportunity to express our opinions in these forums.
That would include our thoughts on headspace gauges!
As far as brands I've always used clymer and forster.. I'm sure there are several worthwhile brands
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High level summary - both would be good for beginners and for a cheap double check / insurance, but for an experienced gunsmith or precise / known tolerances a different method could be used. Is that fair?
I think it's fair if I understand what your saying lol.. just for my clarity.. your saying the feeler gauge method is ok for non precision or just a ameture gunsmith not to concerned with precision but if you want precision then go with a matched set of go/no go?? If that's what your saying I would say that is a fair statement:) btw, not intending to be argumentative or condescending, honestly just wanting to know if I understood what you meant[emoji4][emoji854]
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Mentally, I was just about "all in" on using a feeler gauge with a GO gauge to check for NO-GO until today, when I mic'ed my 30+ year old (no name) Made in the USA (and rust free) feeler gauges. The .002"=.0036", .003=.0052", .004=.004"!!!???!!! Having measured the .002 and .003, I was about convinced my cheapo Lyman 1" micrometer was having issues. That was until I measured the .004" and it was dead on. I guess the moral of this story is; "not all feeler gauges are created equal", USA made or otherwise.
So buying some high end feeler gauges to cut up to save buying a Forster NO-GO gauge for $28.50 doesn't seem quite so frugal to me now.
It would be interesting to know if +/- .002" is the acceptable standard for feeler gauges.
That's a .024.. dead on, .0015 dead on. These are probably 25+ year old sethttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4dabe1882.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f821f0e89f.jpg
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That's equipment used, I checked 3 other sizes and all were dead on:)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07d6eb8737.jpg
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I guess a 'No Name' brand Made in the USA means they were too embarrassed to put their name on it.
Maybe both tools are errant?
Buy the no-go and be done with it.
You don't need measuring tools at all other than the chamber gauges.
Here's one to ponder on I have a PTG go gauge that is laser etched 257 roberts ackley improved 40°. It is .018 shorter than it is supposed to be. Or the dies I've used for 15 years are .018 deep. After reaming to match the dies fired brass measures to print so the go-gauge was obviously marked wrong and is meant for something else.
Trust but verify!
Yea, I already did order GO and NO-GO gauges. I was just sharing an observation about feeler gauges and the "trust, but verify".