Savage 110 SA Gen 1 aka J series.

Ok I desided to go a head with the the build on this action. It has the 4.522” c to c receiver screws. I ordered a new Boydes AT one stock blind BM inlet. And I picked up a EABCO accuracy barrel in 6.5 with new barrel nut and machined recoil lug. I also got a factory 10 rd single feed DBM and bottom metal. I am looking for measurement drawings so I can program my CNC mill to finish the inletting, and enlarge the barrel channel for the varmint EABCO barrel. Has any one got a drawing or prints for this. I do use Fusion 360 for my CNC mill so even a hand drawing can be transferred to 360. I have already plugged the front hole in the DBM bottom metal and re machined it for 4.522 c to c from the 4.4 holes in the bottom metal.
Any help will be appreciated very much.
thanks for looking.
CH

I believe you shoulda looked before you leaped, that ain't gonna work, at least on the DBM. That bottom metal was made for a current production short action, and not only the holes are wrong, so will the magazine placement be wrong.

Yep, a lot of work when a short action can be had for < $275.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

I believe you shoulda looked before you leaped, that ain't gonna work, at least on the DBM. That bottom metal was made for a current production short action, and not only the holes are wrong, so will the magazine placement be wrong.

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Yep but can’t look until you have one to take measurements. I will make a prototype from some 7075 al and see what it looks like for for using a detachable mag app. I have some ideas I need to get in Fusion360. I have other detachable magazines in 308 length, that I think will work. These gen 1 receivers have more room in them to be worked with.
CH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

Yep, a lot of work when a short action can be had for < $275.

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this one was free, so can’t complain about that. I am a retired engineer with a home machine shop. Including a Tormac 1100 cnc mill. I can make just about anything I want or need. This is just a hobby to me, I don’t see it as work, but fun. I don’t compete in any of the high pressure matches like F1 or anything. Just shoot at my local club range and a yote once in a while when they bother my chickens. This action is very smooth, has a beautiful blue job from the factory in 1968, matched the EABCO barrel real well. I’ll get it done, it would be easer if I had prints to use because reverse engineering is kind of slow. It was 15* here yesterday, and snow on the way tomorrow. It’s not like time in the shop is keeping me from shooting.��
Thanks for the replys.
CH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coshooter

this one was free, so can’t complain about that. I am a retired engineer with a home machine shop. Including a Tormac 1100 cnc mill. I can make just about anything I want or need. This is just a hobby to me, I don’t see it as work, but fun. I don’t compete in any of the high pressure matches like F1 or anything. Just shoot at my local club range and a yote once in a while when they bother my chickens. This action is very smooth, has a beautiful blue job from the factory in 1968, matched the EABCO barrel real well. I’ll get it done, it would be easer if I had prints to use because reverse engineering is kind of slow. It was 15* here yesterday, and snow on the way tomorrow. It’s not like time in the shop is keeping me from shooting.��
Thanks for the replys.
CH

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I'd be interested to see how it turns out for you! You will have to post some pic's as well.

Thanks, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Nobody is gonna have prints for this "cross breed", so you will have to re-engineer it. Not as hard as it sounds. The front screw placement will be correct and relative to the mag placement. The rear screw placement will have to be extended to match the gen 1 spacing. Using the factory mag frame, the rear slot needs to be extended about .035". To make this look correct, you will have to make a trigger guard that has a longer tang in the front to cover the gap,(about .125"). I did this conversion awhile back on an Axis. Making a trigger guard is a lot easier than making a frame.
Attachment 6701
The inlet won't be hard because you have the frame for dimensions. The distance between the bottom of the receiver and the frame at the screw holes are .425" on the front screw, and .940" on the rear.(pillar lengths) Use the rear action screw placement for your x,y .0, and the bottom of the receiver channel for the z.0.

I want pics!