6.5 PRC-- Anybody have any thoughts or have one?

Been looking at the latest greatest... It sure looks like a good one...?

Anybody have any experience with the cartridge yet? what do you like about it or not? Has anybody spun one on to their Savage actions yet?

I'm thinking about converting my old time 30-06 over to a 6.5 PRC... I know I'd have to change out the bolt face to accommodate the larger case, but am wondering if I'd have to change out anything else on my 111 (IE magazine or tweak the feed lips).

I already have a .260 (and I love it) but it lacks the punch at longer distances (for big game) and I built it more as a target/bench gun. the 6.5 PRC would be more hunting application and weight reduction to make it more carry friendly. But still carry enough punch at 700 yards for deer/elk.

This deer season I had a spot where I could shoot distances between 300-700 yards in any direction... Mostly between 500-700.. I tested my shot at 654 yards at a 1 MOA rock and darn near dead centered it cold bore.

Just wanting to have something i can make that shot with, but just lighter and with more punch.

Happy Holidays,

Not built on a Savage action but a few guys in the shop have built 6.5PRC for hunting rifles and Dave has actually built a PRS rifle on it as well and ran it in 3 matches right before the end of the season.

Box Hornady ammo with a 147gr. Bullet out of Todd’s hunting rifle I’ve seen it clock velocities dancing at 3000fps. So I’ll say Hornady’s advertised velocities etc....are real world and honest.

That being said like some of the other large case capacity mid bore calibers and depending on the type of powder that is being used (factory or handloads) I’m going to say it’s going to be more critical to keep up with proper cleaning especially from the get go. If you slack on the cleaning/regular maintenance in the beginning and let it get away from you....you might end up with a pressure problems.

My second barrel for my F Class gun (right now it’s in 300PRC) is a 6.5mm barrel and I will most likely get that chambered up this winter sometime and it will be in 6.5PRC as well so I get some trigger time with it. My barrel length is 32” for both.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

I have one- nothing wrong with it- but it's nothing special. If you use good components it will more than likely shoot good. I have a 26" barrel and get advertised velocities but not much more. Loading data says max load is 3150 but all I can do is 3000 with 143 eldx.

I've said this before- but it kind of bothers me that I fell for Hornadys marketing. They said they designed the 6.5 cm because the 260 rem wasn't a short action cartridge. The 6.5prc case is .005 shorter than the 260's- and they brag about it being such a great short action.

To me the 6.5 prc is kind of odd.... not really a short action and lots more muzzle blast and recoil for just shooting targets (and my barrel heats up pretty quick). And as far as a hunting rifle- If i'm going to deal with the blast and build off of a long action then I'm going to go all the way to the top and get the 6.5-300 or 26 nosler.

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Originally Posted by Whynot

I have one- nothing wrong with it- but it's nothing special. If you use good components it will more than likely shoot good. I have a 26" barrel and get advertised velocities but not much more. Loading data says max load is 3150 but all I can do is 3000 with 143 eldx.

I've said this before- but it kind of bothers me that I fell for Hornadys marketing. They said they designed the 6.5 cm because the 260 rem wasn't a short action cartridge. The 6.5prc case is .005 shorter than the 260's- and they brag about it being such a great short action.

To me the 6.5 prc is kind of odd.... not really a short action and lots more muzzle blast and recoil for just shooting targets (and my barrel heats up pretty quick). And as far as a hunting rifle- If i'm going to deal with the blast and build off of a long action then I'm going to go all the way to the top and get the 6.5-300 or 26 nosler.

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You do bring up some good points about the length and short action etc...

To me the 6.5PRC is the equivalent of the 264WM but with out the belted case. The 6.5-300 and the 26 Nosler are total barrel burners. Also the 26 Nosler has problems with shooting the heavy bullets. You cannot get the velocity out of it with the heavies like you think you should. The 26 Nosler the barrels are junk in about 500 rounds. One of the current reloading manuals they almost omitted the 28 Nosler because of problems with getting consistent data in terms of pressure and velocities. The 26 wasn’t far behind that. To me that’s pointing to some of these cartridges are being way over capacity for bore size. It’s creating problems and again especially if the shooter isn’t keeping up with the maintenance.

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Originally Posted by Shortbox4x4

You do bring up some good points about the length and short action etc...

To me the 6.5PRC is the equivalent of the 264WM but with out the belted case. The 6.5-300 and the 26 Nosler are total barrel burners. Also the 26 Nosler has problems with shooting the heavy bullets. You cannot get the velocity out of it with the heavies like you think you should. The 26 Nosler the barrels are junk in about 500 rounds. One of the current reloading manuals they almost omitted the 28 Nosler because of problems with getting consistent data in terms of pressure and velocities. The 26 wasn’t far behind that. To me that’s pointing to some of these cartridges are being way over capacity for bore size. It’s creating problems and again especially if the shooter isn’t keeping up with the maintenance.

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I would think that being in the barrel business, barrel burners would be a good thing. Lol
But then Corvetes can be hard on rear tires also, but they are still pretty popular.
For hunting guns, barrels can last a lifetime if they are only used for hunting and not much practice shooting at rocks.
A 308 will allow for all the long range practice necessary, and so will a 7/08 or a 260.
Where I’m from and still go to hunt, the 6.5x 300 Weatherby was the #1 gun 50 years ago for one reason.
There were no good bullets available for others. But when they did become available, for example the 162 gr BTHP Hornady in 7mm, the 6.5 x300 died almost overnite in favor of the 7x300 Weatherby at similar velocity.
Today if you talk to a hundred hunters in that area you probably wont find a single 6.5x300 weatherby or any other 6.5 for that matter used for L/R hunting.
Fact is even the 7mm is losing popularity due to all the good 30 cal bullets and good cartridges.
As for the 338, either build one on a big case or stick with a 30 cal with heavier bullets would be my advise.
Problem with building a gun for a max 700 yd shot is that at some point there will be a longer shot.
I personally wouldn’t take a 1000 yd shot at a deer with a 7 mm Rem mag, and not much further with a 7x300 WBY.
Watch a few of them get hit in good spots and still walk away will change lots of opinions on how much gun.

Gentlemen,

I appreciate your feedback and suggestions. I've been considering doing a couple different things with the 30-06 I've used for deer and elk since I was 12 (not the same rifle, but the same caliber). While the terrain I normally hunt is thick forest and most shots are 100 yards or less, I've had a few more new spots that allow longer shots to occur. While my completely stock Savage 111 is great for brush hogging and hiking the timber, it is not accurate enough to be attempting any shots over about 200 yards. I've considered just staying with the 30-06 and just working on it until I can get it to shoot how I want it to whether that includes putting a good barrel on it (CBI-- heavy sporter) and a good laminate stock and pillar bed it. I'd also have to upgrade my optics to something more appropriate for dialing longer distances.

My biggest reason for leaning towards the 6.5 PRC is because of the BC I can get from the lighter bullets (143 ELDX) then I can with the .30 cal Barnes 168 TTSX that I shoot. The 30-06 just has more recoil then I prefer to have when it comes to shot placement. I suppose I could just put a brake on the 30-06 to reduce the recoil especially if I jump up to a high BC bullet.

Just thought that if i was going to go to all that work, I should build something that should be more accurate and easier to shoot well, yet still has enough punch to make the cross canyon shot if necessary. even in the 300-400 yards range. I wouldn't even try it with the way the 30-06 is setup now.

Me personally, I would just build a 6.5x284 instead of the latest 6.5 that comes out. I didn't really get the point or use of the 6.5prc. It's too overbore IMO for PRS, will wear the barrel much faster than a 6.5 Creedmoor or 260, which translates to being hard to control the recoil.

Which brings me back to a 6.5x284. Yes it will run best on a long action, but use can use a standard 308 bolt head. Another advantage is the tremendous amount of reliable reloading data on the internet and books for this cartridge.

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Originally Posted by psharon97

Me personally, I would just build a 6.5x284 instead of the latest 6.5 that comes out. I didn't really get the point or use of the 6.5prc. It's too overbore IMO for PRS, will wear the barrel much faster than a 6.5 Creedmoor or 260, which translates to being hard to control the recoil.

Which brings me back to a 6.5x284. Yes it will run best on a long action, but use can use a standard 308 bolt head. Another advantage is the tremendous amount of reliable reloading data on the internet and books for this cartridge.

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I looked at the 6.5x284 also, but decided to shy away from it because its not a SAAMI spec cartridge. I'd probably just go to the straight .284 in that case/situation. But then I'd have up size the Lapua 6.5x284 brass and apparently that process created doughnuts around the neck. Which in turn just creates more work in case prep etc... then I want. I am a hand loader, so it is an option. I'd just rather stay with something that requires a little less work to make it shoot well.

In regards to the 6.5PRC being hard to control the recoil... I've seen a 105 pound woman manage to shoot it well although it did have a brake on it (which I would too). I figure it would be comparable to shooting a .270 Win with the 145 ELDX at 2900+ fps.... But that's just my guess.

I'm still wondering about having to tweak anything on my magazine if I move from the 30-06 to the 6.5 PRC, 6.5x284 or just a straight .284.

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Originally Posted by Whynot;

I've said this before- but it kind of bothers me that I fell for Hornadys marketing. They said they designed the 6.5 cm because the 260 rem wasn't a short action cartridge. The 6.5prc case is .005 shorter than the 260's- and they brag about it being such a great short action.

To me the 6.5 prc is kind of odd.... not really a short action and lots more muzzle blast and recoil for just shooting targets (and my barrel heats up pretty quick). And as far as a hunting rifle- If i'm going to deal with the blast and build off of a long action then I'm going to go all the way to the top and get the 6.5-300 or 26 nosler.

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Its oal is 2.955” this will fit in a savage wsm mag box or other short action boxes just fine. I load my 300 wsm to 2.97. Idk why hornady would say The 260 is not a short action it is, but it just never was throated to seat long bullets out to maximize case capacity which seems to be the popular thing now.

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Originally Posted by Orr89rocz

Its oal is 2.955” this will fit in a savage wsm mag box or other short action boxes just fine. I load my 300 wsm to 2.97. Idk why hornady would say The 260 is not a short action it is, but it just never was throated to seat long bullets out to maximize case capacity which seems to be the popular thing now.

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I build all of my stuff on a long action (except my 22-250) I built my 260 off a long action (Savage 111) and then had CBI chamber my new barrel for match bullets my base/OG is 2.93. I wanted to make sure I could seat them out to take advantage of case capacity and still feed from the magazine.

The 6.5x284 will burn out the barrel just as fast as the 6.5PRC.

Also some actions have feeding issues with the 6.5x284. The rebated rim can make it finicky.

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Fact is even the 7mm is losing popularity due to all the good 30 cal bullets and good cartridges.

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Blasphemer! I still find the 7mm08 the ultimate whitetail cartridge. Marginally better than a 270. Interested in the 7mm-6.5prc. If it is being done yet.

[QUOTE=
I'm still wondering about having to tweak anything on my magazine if I move from the 30-06 to the 6.5 PRC, 6.5x284 or just a straight .284.[/QUOTE]

Yes, The PRC is much fatter- so you will have to adjust the magazine... or buy a magnum magazine. The strait forward change would be to take your 30-06 and change it to a 6.5mm-06. Same velocity range- bolt head- and you are already set up to feed it.

Since you asked for "any thoughts" I will contribute mine. When I was looking for a less than 300 lbs prey at less than 300 yards (whitetail deer) rifle for this county's newly altered game laws to finally allow rifles I settled on the .260 Rem as about ideal for what I needed that would also be good for coyote and just plinking/targets in the summer. The .260 Rem is about optimal for the powder a 6.5mm bore can burn from a pure efficiency criteria; I'm using slightly compressed RL-19 and it's a happy marriage. And Savage did us right with the 1:8" twist.

Certainly you can jamb in more powder with bigger cases . . . but with diminishing returns to achieve higher performance . . . if you want it. For those willing and able to replace barrels after 2,000 rounds - why not? The fringes are where the excitement is. 6.5 PRC and 26 Nosler are kicking 6.5mm cartridges for certain. They'll reach out WAY further that my .260 Rem. Go for it if that's what you need, or want, or just for the hell of it. Nothing wrong with pushing the envelope. That's how mankind has got where it is.

"Oog crazy. Him put piece of rock on front of wood spear. Where that gonna get him?"

First, I am not a fan of long range hunting. I've see too many people out there who have the latest super duper rifle and take shots cause they could hit a 12" gong at 1000yd a couple of times. Results are usually a gut shot animal that they cannot track because of poor wind skills or simply because the animal moved during the shot. Unless you practice a LOT at the longer ranges and pass on shots unless you are guaranteed a solid hit then you should give up the idea of shots out beyond 500yd. Even shots beyond 300yd can be iffy if the wind is up.

But, if you really want a rifle in a different caliber then the 6.5 PRC seems to be a practical one. Like Frank said, it's a .264WM in a standard bolt face case. Not as easy on barrels as the CM. Interesting that the PRC and CM were both developed for targets rather than big game.

Recoil and accuracy are the two things that will make my next rifle a 6mm or 6.5mm.

As to a woman handling a 6.5PRC, I've seen plenty of women 'handle' rifles I would not want to shoot. If it is an issue I suggest you shoot 50 rounds through one before you commit to such a project. If numbers do not lie the PRC will have almost the same recoil as your .30 cal 165gn bullets.

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Originally Posted by charlie b

But, if you really want a rifle in a different caliber then the 6.5 PRC seems to be a practical one. Like Frank said, it's a .264WM in a standard bolt face case. Not as easy on barrels as the CM. Interesting that the PRC and CM were both developed for targets rather than big game.

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What does this mean? What is different about the bolt head for a 264 WM and a 6.5PRC?

Thanks for all the comments and input guys... I'm glad I asked the question. I'll probably just try and see if I can get the 30-06 to shoot better. Probably too much money and time to build another one for something I'll only use a couple times a year.

I couldn't edit one of my earlier posts... my .260 has a COAL of 2.93 not base/OG.

You could always do the 280 or 280 AI. Fine cartridges and gives you a little edge ballisticaly.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

What does this mean? What is different about the bolt head for a 264 WM and a 6.5PRC?

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Sorry, I meant to say non-belted case.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

You could always do the 280 or 280 AI. Fine cartridges and gives you a little edge ballisticaly.

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Great recommendation!

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

You could always do the 280 or 280 AI. Fine cartridges and gives you a little edge ballisticaly.

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Thanks for the recommendation Robinhood! Never really heard about that one before. Been doing some reading on the cartridge and am liking what i'm hearing so far. It might be exactly what I am looking for.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

What does this mean? What is different about the bolt head for a 264 WM and a 6.5PRC?

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I believe NOTHING, seems they are both standard magnum (.540) bolt heads. The 30-06, 270, 284, 280 & 280AI as well as others are the standard .470 bolthead.



"Like Frank said, it's a .264WM in a standard bolt face case"

I don't see where Frank said this. If I'm wrong my apologies but it should read "Like Frank said, it's a .264WM in a standard MAGNUM bolt face case" otherwise the same boltface.

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Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter

Thanks for the recommendation Robinhood! Never really heard about that one before. Been doing some reading on the cartridge and am liking what i'm hearing so far. It might be exactly what I am looking for.

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I have a 6.5-284 and a 280 AI, both LA Remington 700s similar in weight, stock etc. The recoil impulse is much sharper on the 280AI vs the 6.5-284 with a 150 vs 143 respectively. It's not brutal but there none the less.

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Originally Posted by 6.5savageguy

I have a 6.5-284 and a 280 AI, both LA Remington 700s similar in weight, stock etc. The recoil impulse is much sharper on the 280AI vs the 6.5-284 with a 150 vs 143 respectively. It's not brutal but there none the less.

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I appreciate that information as well. If I'm going to make that change, I'm going to run the 160 grain VLD bullets for sure. If I can get it to 2900+ fps, that will give me the ballistics I'm looking for... I will also have some kind of muzzle brake on it whether it be directional or radial.

Next question: If I'm going to run VLD bullets, will I need to have it "Match" chambered to take advantage of case capacity and the long VLD pill?

A regular chamber should be fine for a VLD and a .280 AI is likely chambered to put the heavier bullets out in the neck.

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Originally Posted by 6.5savageguy

A regular chamber should be fine for a VLD and a .280 AI is likely chambered to put the heavier bullets out in the neck.

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Is that going to be the same for a straight 280 also? I'll probably have to be upsizing .270 brass or have to order .280 Win (nickel) brass and then fire form them to go .280 AI. Unless you know of a source for good .280 AI brass??

Thanks again,

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Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter

Is that going to be the same for a straight 280 also? I'll probably have to be upsizing .270 brass or have to order .280 Win (nickel) brass and then fire form them to go .280 AI. Unless you know of a source for good .280 AI brass??

Thanks again,

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I've never had a straight .280 so can't say. You would have a better chance seating a VLD long though than a conventional bullet IMO.

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Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter

Is that going to be the same for a straight 280 also? I'll probably have to be upsizing .270 brass or have to order .280 Win (nickel) brass and then fire form them to go .280 AI. Unless you know of a source for good .280 AI brass??

Thanks again,

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Nosler made 280AI a SAAMI standard. So they make formed 280AI brass and ammo.

If you have a older 280AI chamber reamer there might be some slight differences between that and the SAAMI spec.

I’m not a fan of nickel plated brass. Why? The nickel plating can flake off especially during reloading etc....the nickel is very hard and can scratch the bore and chamber.

VLD bullets vs a regular or just say different bullets....to get close to the rifling you have to play with the seating depth. VLD’s typically because of the longer pointer ogive you will seat the bullet out further in a given chamber to closer to the rifling.

If you want make up a couple of dummy rounds of where you want your bullet seated. Keep one for reference. I then send one to a reamer maker like JGS and ask them to make a chambering reamer to match the sample round. Then you can get it the way you want it.

For a few years back around late 90’s I ran a 280AI for some of the local sniper rifle matches. I shot the 168SMK for 300 yards and less and the 180 VLD’s for anything past 300 yards.

The Nosler brass Frank mentions is top notch with that being said the Lee FL die I had would not bump the shoulder. I trimmed the die bottom and got it to work but couldn't get the bottom inside smoothed out enough to not scratch the brass.

I sent 3 fired cases to Redding and they sent a FL die that worked with my chamber. They said it was a Sammi chamber so the Lee die was obviously pre Sammi.

I got the rifle for payment in moving some shipping containers and it was an early 80s Remington 700 with a Shilen barrel on it. Not my favorite rifle but it's kinda grown on me.

Trimming the die bottom is one way 6.5savageguy. When I think something like this is happening where the die doesn’t seem to be sizing the brass enough or cannot get it to bump the shoulder....take the shell holder for the press and take .015” off the top of it. That’s usually more than enough to give you more adjustment down on the die.

We had to do it for a local customer (from IL) a few months ago and I had to do it for my 6BRA. I took off .015”. Needed about .009” to .010”. Once I found how much I need to bump the case about .0015” to .002”....that when I go to set up my die I put a .005” shim on top of the shell holder and run the die down till it bottoms out on the shell holder/shim and then tighten up the lock ring.

I’d rather mess up a $6 shell holder then to mess up the die and have to send it back.

Even though the shell holders are some what hard I have no problem putting in the collet of the Hardinge lathe and can just face it off. Other option is to put it in the surface grinder. Either way will work.

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Originally Posted by Shortbox4x4

Trimming the die bottom is one way 6.5savageguy. When I think something like this is happening where the die doesn’t seem to be sizing the brass enough or cannot get it to bump the shoulder....take the shell holder for the press and take .015” off the top of it. That’s usually more than enough to give you more adjustment down on the die.

We had to do it for a local customer (from IL) a few months ago and I had to do it for my 6BRA. I took off .015”. Needed about .009” to .010”. Once I found how much I need to bump the case about .0015” to .002”....that when I go to set up my die I put a .005” shim on top of the shell holder and run the die down till it bottoms out on the shell holder/shim and then tighten up the lock ring.

I’d rather mess up a $6 shell holder then to mess up the die and have to send it back.

Even though the shell holders are some what hard I have no problem putting in the collet of the Hardinge lathe and can just face it off. Other option is to put it in the surface grinder. Either way will work.

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Thanks Frank,

That's what I did the next time I ran into the problem on my 7-08 AI heavy gun. I polished about .010 off the shellholder with a piece of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper by laying the sand paper on a flat surface and working the shellholder in a figure 8 pattern on it.

Thanks again for all the info guys... If I am going to go down this road I'm going to put it on my Savage 111 action (5 years or so old) and order a CBI already chambered. While I do understand how to hand load and seating depths, I don't want a big headache in the reloading process. I understand the basics but I'm nowhere near an expert... More of a plug and play guy myself, just not so much that I am ok with running factory ammo.

I've had great results from my other builds using CBI barrels, I was just thinking this one would have similar results.