Just ordered an Oregon mountain barrel but has anyone used one,if so please comment. Thanks
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Just ordered an Oregon mountain barrel but has anyone used one,if so please comment. Thanks
Oregon Mountain Barrel or Barrel nut?
The barrel nut looks very similar to the PVA unit. They look good but a hex will collapse with a thin wall nut. In my opinion that could impact setting head space. Let us know.
Should be here Oct ' 11. The Bartlein bbl came friday.......I will let you know
OK but came yesterday.......I had emailed the vendor and expressed those concerns about it collapsing they assured me that would not happen and if it did send it back....?so today I rebarreled one of my model 12 actions that I had laying around with a varmint contour 26 inch 22-250......I took a digital mic and took all measurements od i,d, threads and length and width and flats....put a tight wrench on it tightened it to 80 psi on purpose.......shot it and after 22 shots marked the bbl where it was headspaced loosened it removed the barrel and then reinstalled it NO PROBLEM. Headspace was spot on Fired 12 more rounds and grouped the same.....?I like this bbl nut I am going to order more
How did you do tighten nut to 80psi?
Phil....... stop it.
David, What I meant was as the nut gets tight I was concerned that the barrel would start to turn, closing the headspace dimension. Hopefully I was wrong and as it seems you had now issues. Thanks for your post.
I used a crowfoot socket with a 1/2 inch torque wrench......will be swapping bbls a couple more times this week only torquing to 40 psi........only did the 80 to test the bbl but...I will keep everyone posted
Does anyone else see the irony here? A precision nut that the manufacturer recommends using a crescent wrench on to tighten/loosen. `Merican ingenuity at it's finest!!! :crazy:
Just to be clear..........the manufacturer did not recommend any specific type of wrench..........
90 ft/lbs is what some of the action manufacturers that use the 1 1/16-20 tenon thread recommend so you did OK doing 80 ft/lbs.
I think the point that James was making is that you basically are using two flats (or corners depending on how you want to describe where the force is applied on a hex nut) to tighten a thread.
Like I said before it would stand to reason that once you got close to suggested torque the nut would squeeze on the barrel threads and have an impact on the makeup of the action barrel junction. Nothing scientific just a hunch working with threaded machinery components for a few years. Now if you used a box end wrench then I would think that would be the ticket.
At 50-100 ft/lbs I am confident that you don't have to worry about the nut squeezing the barrel threads with any of the current hex barrel nuts made from 4140 CM steel or 416 SS. You would have to have them pretty thin (which the PVA and Oregon mountain ones are not) in order for it to be an issue.
Stop what? It was a legitimate question as I assumed he was using a different method of tightening this unique barrel nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Their website says differently.Quote:
Originally Posted by david12601
https://omrifles.com/collections/acc...cts/barrel-nut
Attachment 6385
Not discounting the product or mocking it, I just found the irony of that statement on their website to be humorous is all.
Time will tell ......there is a lot of meat on this bbl but.....I had the same concerns as was mentioned it was just something different I wanted to try....like I said I will report back later this week I have 6 x47 lapua.....22-250.....243 ..to try out this week
Looks like a non solution to a non problem....
But appears to be a good looking nut. If it blends well and does what it is intended to do then great. Lots of us do stuff to rifles to look better for our own liking.
Went to range ,,,,,changed bbls 3 times no problems with headspace all is good.......may have to get a couple more I like the way they look
Good news. I think some people thought I was saying it would crush the barrel. What I was trying to convey that once the torque increased, the nut could distort enough to grab the barrel and it would turn with the nut closing the head space. Obviously i was mistaken. After looking at how the flats are short the wall thickness was not as thin as I thought. post pictures of the finished product please.Quote:
Originally Posted by david12601
BTW, what is the distance for flat to flat. 1.250?
Pics will be up during the week headed to Virginia right now will be there until Tuesday......
Exactly what I thought when I read the initial post.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
I don't get the rationale.
If anything, milling those flats leaves substantially less contact surface area of the nut and receiver face which I perceive as a potential negative.
To each their own, aesthetics matter to some and that's subjective. If
I would have to agree. Kinda like several companies replacing the direct impingement gas system with the gas piston system on the AR15! An answer to a question NOBODY asked!Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
But if a person prefers the look of this other barrel nut, more power to ‘em!
The only problem it solved was one of the ones I am having. I have a 1.2" bull barrel taken from a 700 action. I threaded it for a Savage and installed it. Problem is, I can't get a normal wrench over and down the barrel, so the nut is only hand tight with a strap wrench. I was gonna cut 60% of my nut wrench away, so I could slide it over, but this nut solves the problem.
David; the joke you are missing is that torque is measured in foot pounds or newton meters, not psi.
Sorry I ruined that for ya Phil :-)
Bart, The Bugholes bugnut was another option to work in your situation. $40.00 US. I think the one you have may look better but.....
https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/...es/BUGNUT3.jpg
https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/...es/BUGNUT4.jpg
Yeah I should have known better I have so much going on right now shooting,rebuilding race car engine and working on one of my airplanes......I know cold weather is coming trying to do as much as I can.........my Christmas wish is to have more hours in a day.........
I like this!Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
This is what I'm up against. 1.25 OD barrel, 1.35" OD nut and receiver
I can't post a pic
After you told me what you were doing I figured it out. I hope you got it working for you.
This is what the BugNut is used for, but most commonly for appropriately sized prefits or guys that need an easier switch-barrel in the field. It was designed to solve the max diameter "problem" for those that wanted a bull barrel contour in a prefit.Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybart
Since you needed to cut off the tenon of the 700 barrel anyway, why not just go with a shouldered barrel and forget about a nut altogether?
Because your 2nd proposal requires either a Gunsmith or the know how, and some quite a bit of tooling expense for headspacing.Quote:
Originally Posted by tobnpr
Ummm...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
OP said "I threaded it for a Savage and installed it".
He obviously has the "know how" and the lathe, he said he does his own barrel work. Easier to just shoulder the barrel IMO, instead of needing to conform to dimensions specific to a nutted barrel, unless a switch barrel is needed in the field.
That was my take away tobnpr. Sounded like he has the ability to machine. So why not buy a drop of 1.250" 416 hex stock. Turn the OD to 1.350". bore it to min thread dimensions thread it and counter bore to barrel diameter plus ten and then be done.
I'm an amature machinist. I can do outside threads, but have trouble doing inside threads. I originally threaded the barrel so I could sell it. After trying to sell it for 2 years, I figured I'd keep it. I deep chambered it in 6 PPC and will face the breech to get the headspace right. It will still have a barrel nut as I can't shorten it anymore w/o getting into the flutes.
To make good ID threads on a manual machine I make a gauge that is class 3 measured by wires. Always sanding down the crest of the threads to bring it back to the nominal minus .003" -.005". In the case of Savage threads minus .010". Make sure your nut goes on. Should be a very good fit.
When you cut ID threads you go about 90-95% of the finish(fish) thread depth. On 20 TPI there is no need to use the compound. Always sand the burr of of the crest or use the 16ER 20(I think for boring bars) threading tools. If you are really comfortable with your lathe and once you get the crest clean of burs. Go .001 -002 at a time until the gauge goes in snug. Cleaning the thread ID after every pass with scothchbright to make sure there are no raised burs. Make a few more passes on zero and try again. If need be, feed in .0005" until it is right. To get a good fit you need to be sure to eliminate burs pushed up by carbide tooling.
Be sure to sneak up easy when you get close. The reason they're more challenging is that just like boring you get tool flex, and on smaller manual machines the relative lack of rigidity stacks on as well.
If you don't have DRO's, consider adding them, esp if you have older iron like I do. Wear on leadscrews becomes irrelevant and you get exactly what you see on the display.
Like any other op, practice it and learn what your machine and tooling will do/will not do. Carbide and HSS will require different approaches.