112 target scope options?

Mornin fellas, new member here, just bought a Savage 112 Target in .338LM yesterday! Started looking into scopes last night, and my head is spinning! I’d like to get out to a mile or more eventually, so I was looking at 6-24x50 versions of Leupold, Nikon, Vortex. I’ve got a 20moa base on its way already, but not wanting to screw up in the scope. What are you guys using for similar guns? I’d like to stay around $1000-1200 range if I can, not looking for a $2k Nightforce at the moment... unless it’s needed, I’ll save up for it lol. I’d rather spend more and not have problems, but if a vortex or something will handle the recoil and whatnot, I’m on it. Heard the vortex have great glass, leupold isn’t what it used to be, and everything under the sun on the internet, but thought I’d ask savage owners what they use and like/dislike. Thanks!!!!

Take a long hard look at the Midas Tac and Ares ETR line from Athlon. The Midas Tac will run in the $650 range and the Ares etr in the $1200 range. Both are superb scopes and rank higher than their respective prices suggest.



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I could make a scope suggestion but instead I am going to ask you to go into this realistically. You mentioned the distances you wanted to shoot. That takes a lot of concentration. In order to make good hits at those ranges you will spend some time behind the glass. If you can try to spend some time behind different models just looking at a target for a minute or two at really long ranges. Keep the cross hair on target for the whole time. Ask yourself if you had to strain to keep focus. Pay attention to the eye box and the exit pupil. The more time you spend doing this you will understand the importance of a well designed scope, regardless of its price point.

since i shoot out to 2000 with a measly 300 win mag, i have some time looking thru glass.
i doubt that your budget will support your goals.
yes you can hit the side of a mountain at 1 mile with almost any scope and a 338lm.
make it a specific target and things change.
you also need enough built in elevation to keep you away from the top and bottom of your glass.
how many moa do you need from 100 to 1800 yards with your 338lm ?
some examples for you to ponder
my mk13 SEAL clone sniper in 300 win mag long (mk248mod1) has a 5.5-22x nightforce, just like the original rifle.
with a 20 moa base and some moa from burris rings i can run from 100 to past 2000 yards i got this at a live auction for 1600.
with my next class up, a 338 edge i will do the same base and rings, but with a 7-35-56 atacr scope. 3600 msrp/3200 on sale
you need to look for about 80 moa min in a scope
you can buy a used nf 12-42 and put a big base under it but you will have to zero way out there.
long distance ACCURACY aint cheap.

Perfect tracking and plenty of elevation in a scope rugged enough for a 338 LM? Burris XTR2 will get you there, be reliable, good reticle and be under $1000.

I assume the OP has not fired at 1000yd or beyond before. Hopefully he has fired a heavy recoiling rifle accurately (less than 1 MOA consistently). If not that will be kind of another step.

I was in kinda the same boat. I am a decent shot. Shot 1/2MOA on a fairly regular basis at closer ranges (100-400yd). The longer range bug bit me so I decided to buy a 12BVSS in .308 so I could shoot at our 1000yd range and do some light competition. Put a Vortex PST on it.

The rifle and scope are great. But, my skills need a LOT of improvement. Going from mid to long ranges is a HUGE step in shooting skill. After a year and I am still not good at longer ranges. I need to get a lot better with trigger and recoil management, and, WINDAGE!!!!

I guess my message is, you probably need to get a decent scope and shoot at the long ranges first before thinking about 1 mile shots. If you ever get bored at 1000yd, then think about a 1 mile setup.

The 308 is humbling after 400 yards. The reason the 6.5 Creedmoor is popular with many shooters from a variety of interests.

lol
i had my savage 10 in 308 at 600 last weekend, inside the 3" f class x ring.
to me it aint that hard.
maybe the fact that you think that past 400 is tuff, is your problem.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

The 308 is humbling after 400 yards. The reason the 6.5 Creedmoor is popular with many shooters from a variety of interests.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by charlie b

I assume the OP has not fired at 1000yd or beyond before. Hopefully he has fired a heavy recoiling rifle accurately (less than 1 MOA consistently). If not that will be kind of another step.

I was in kinda the same boat. I am a decent shot. Shot 1/2MOA on a fairly regular basis at closer ranges (100-400yd). The longer range bug bit me so I decided to buy a 12BVSS in .308 so I could shoot at our 1000yd range and do some light competition. Put a Vortex PST on it.

The rifle and scope are great. But, my skills need a LOT of improvement. Going from mid to long ranges is a HUGE step in shooting skill. After a year and I am still not good at longer ranges. I need to get a lot better with trigger and recoil management, and, WINDAGE!!!!

I guess my message is, you probably need to get a decent scope and shoot at the long ranges first before thinking about 1 mile shots. If you ever get bored at 1000yd, then think about a 1 mile setup.

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youre right, I’ve not shot at 1000 yds or more. I’ve gone out to ~600 yds with 300wm. I’m in no way expecting to jump straight to 1 mile shots, but will work my way up slowly while getting trigger time and playing with load development. Just trying to get a scope that’s capable of a mile when I’m ready so I hopefully don’t have to buy another one. I’m reality it’ll be years before I try a mile shot. Just trying to think ahead. I’m fully aware my skills aren’t anywhere near what they’d need to be for even 1000 yd shot, but I’m in no hurry to get there.

As long as you are comfortable with the heavier rifles at that range then at least you know what you are getting into.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

The 308 is humbling after 400 yards. The reason the 6.5 Creedmoor is popular with many shooters from a variety of interests.

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It isn't the cartridge that is the problem, it is me. I just have never tried to shoot at those ranges before and it is a lot different than closer.

FWIW the guy next to me was shooting a .223 at 1000 and hitting a 12" plate 8 of 10 times.

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you jumped into the deep end of the pool and it is deep.
i would set the rifle aside and learn to shoot at 600-1000 with a smaller rifle....308, 30/06 even 300 win mag.
as it is you have the gun and no budget for a decent scope.
buy a savage entry 300 wsm add a 6-24 x learn to load and shoot.
do not burn up your bbl and wallet with the current rifle

Look for a used deal on a 6-24 Sightron SIII. I’ve had/have,

-Leupold- not impressed with the price they are. But you can pick up MK 4 relatively cheap used if you want
-Sightron- Own 2 6-24 and one 8-32 LR Tactical MOA 2- excellent scope and very clear- Made be LOW in Japan
-Nightforce Competition- Also made by LOW. Excellent scope. Well past the budget
-Athlon Cronus BTR- Also past the budget. Very nice. Also made by LOW (the Ares are their “high end” Chinese model)
-Burris XTRII - SCR FFP- Solid Scope, nice reticle, you can buy used on SH for $750-$850 easy enough. The Sightron is clearer but the Burris is built like a tank

If it was me I’d look at the Burris or Sightron. Vortex if you step up a notch. The Gen 1 PST are crap. Owned 3 vortex at one point (2 pst) 2/3 failed. Own zero now

If you want good optics for great prices check out the Sniper Hide forum. Lots of great optics on there. Pay the $45 to access the classifieds and find the scope you want. Many sell with good rings (seekins/badger etc). If they don’t come with them pay the price and get good ones to start. Burris XTR at the cheapest. Leupold MK4/Badger/NF/Seekins etc. You can also find these used on SH to.

Ive run my 260 and 338 LM (since sold the 338) out past a mile with these scopes. You may end up using the reticle to account for some drop depending on the load you run and altitude your at.

If what you want to do is shoot past a mile then go for it. You’ll learn the rifle as you go along. You need to master proper breathing, trigger control and fundamentals for shooting that distance but there is no sense in settling on something you’ll need to upgrade later. You also need to get an anti cant level on the rifle. As well as mount the scope correctly. I use a plumb bob and test the tracking to be sure it’s perfectly in line with the bore.

A good Bipod/rear rest/weather meter/ballistic app/wind reading skills/spotter with a good spotting scope will be useful to.

Good of luck to you. There’s nothing like hitting steel past a mile

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Originally Posted by mikeinco

you jumped into the deep end of the pool and it is deep.
i would set the rifle aside and learn to shoot at 600-1000 with a smaller rifle....308, 30/06 even 300 win mag.
as it is you have the gun and no budget for a decent scope.
buy a savage entry 300 wsm add a 6-24 x learn to load and shoot.
do not burn up your bbl and wallet with the current rifle

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He has a 300 already and has had it to 600 so that is a good start. He could use the scope he purchases to start practicing longer then transfer to 338.

I hope the OP reloads. 338 is an expensive baby otherwise

I agree with you about the 308 vs 6.5 tho. Lots of people think the 6.5 is worlds apart from the 308. I’ll give the fact that it can do the same thing as a 308 with less recoil etc but the 308’s put many cartiges to shame at 1,000 yards in the hands of skilled shooters. Good FTR shooters often stomp fopen guys with much better cartridges. So yes 400 yards isn’t even beginning to push 308 limits


If you don’t reload tho move out with the 300 first. 338 LM is crazy expensive for what it is. Factory prices flirting with my 50. And the 338 is no 50. It’s a big gun capable of long range but not worth $4 + a round. FYI your 300 will do a mile as well of loaded correctly

Yes I definitely reload, or I would not have jumped into .338 lol. I know the 300 has the ability to go further, but it’s a hunting rifle My dad gave me, and weighs about 8 pounds. Better for carrying in the woods chasing elk, not that great to shoot. Was looking for something different, so I went different. I don’t know anyone that has a 338, sounded fun, so I bought one to play with.

Never said I didn’t have the budget for a $2500 scope, just trying not to spend that if it’s not necessary. Just trying to have fun with it without having a fortune invested. If it’s throwing money away to buy a $1000 scope then I’ll buy a better one. Precisely why I’m here asking others what they’ve used and how they liked it.

yes...buy once spend 2500 or so look at top name scopes not middle or low level brands...at a distance they will not be the same as a top end scope.
a 5.5-22x56 night force is under that used.

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Originally Posted by 112target

Yes I definitely reload, or I would not have jumped into .338 lol. I know the 300 has the ability to go further, but it’s a hunting rifle My dad gave me, and weighs about 8 pounds. Better for carrying in the woods chasing elk, not that great to shoot. Was looking for something different, so I went different. I don’t know anyone that has a 338, sounded fun, so I bought one to play with.

Never said I didn’t have the budget for a $2500 scope, just trying not to spend that if it’s not necessary. Just trying to have fun with it without having a fortune invested. If it’s throwing money away to buy a $1000 scope then I’ll buy a better one. Precisely why I’m here asking others what they’ve used and how they liked it.

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You can find NF NXS for around $1500-1700 used/like new if that’s the direction you wish to take. You won’t regret it. There are cheaper options as stated above. But none have the track record of the NXS. That is truly the toughest scope you could consider to be in the price range you are willing to spend. Obviously $1000-$1200 won’t get you most NXS but saving and spending the extra if you can afford it will be worth it in the long run

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Originally Posted by mikeinco

lol
i had my savage 10 in 308 at 600 last weekend, inside the 3" f class x ring.
to me it aint that hard.
maybe the fact that you think that past 400 is tuff, is your problem.

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Nope not a problem at all. I dont even think 1000
is hard. But I have scored 308s and I've scored 6 dashers and Shehanes. Never saw the 308 shoot the center out of a new target, but I have the 6's and the 7. Maybe your special, like world class though.

lol...2015 national champ at 600
so maybe

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

Nope not a problem at all. I dont even think 1000
is hard. But I have scored 308s and I've scored 6 dashers and Shehanes. Never saw the 308 shoot the center out of a new target, but I have the 6's and the 7. Maybe your special, like world class though.

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Just get this.... $719. They might even have an extra 5% off if you look around the site enough.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-...iflescope.html

the funny part about that sale is the moa version is 280 bucks more.
i think it is an unlit version at that price and the moa only comes lit.
i am actually looking at one for a cheap build i am working on,
but nay bite the bullet for a high powder nf and a tilting base.

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Originally Posted by want2ride

Just get this.... $719. They might even have an extra 5% off if you look around the site enough.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-...iflescope.html

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Oh good grief! I love how the INTERWEB brings out the “Super Tacti-cool Experts of AWESOMENESS!” LOL! I am certainly not one them. I’ve never shot a long range competition or even at a dedicated 1000yd “range”. My distance shooting was across canyons and such in the Arizona desert. The old, “ok.., that rock!” But I have spent several decades collecting information & learning everything I can. Something I think everyone will agree on is it is never wrong to purchase the BEST optic you can afford. Which is best?? Well, that is a matter of preference. If you can, go top tier. Any of the known tier one choices are amazing! If I had my choice I would choose the Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25x56. But that will never happen. Far, far out of my price point! What I recommend is going with as many of the criteria points as you can within your price point. First & for most you want ED glass! Also, 24+ max magnification is needed for MOST of our mere mortal eyes. And having a 34mm tube & 56mm objective is nice. Within your indicated price point, there is a scope which meets all these criteria. The Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x56. Can pick them up for under $1200, and I really don’t know of anything else that can match it for under $2K! Would love to have one of these, but even $1100 is pretty north of my budget. Maybe one day.

So Dave, your contribution to this thread is letting the OP know you haven’t done the shooting he’s looking to do, then recommend scopes you’ve never used.....

I know myself, in the $1200 price range I’d be picking up a Japanese NXS or Sightron, made by a reputable company, with a lot of shooters to back their products before I’d pick up the new latest/greatest scope out of China. As I said I do own the Cronus BTR and when set next to a NF ATACR the glass to my eyes is the same. NF Beast was same as well. Only time will tell if the Cronus holds up.

OP one of the big things to look at as well is the internal adjustment in the scope. On your list I believe the Nikons have struggled in this department. Maybe the newer stuff is better but shop for lots of internal adjustment.

Stay away from the Nikon line..... You will be sorry if you buy one... The FX1000 line is a complete joke... My $300 Redfield Battlezone tracked better!!

I have a Sightron SIII 6-24x50 and I wouldn't trade it for anything.... I just got my Dad the Athlon ARES BTR 4.5-27x50.... Nothing to report back yet on the BTR (Still waiting on RL26) still have to reload... it seems to have become the new "unobtainium" like H4350 was a little bit ago....

Nevermind.

Only, calling someone out who never said a word to you is pretty tasteless. Never said I haven’t used any top tier scopes....just that I can’t afford them. And I didn’t tell him to use anything. YOU DID THAT! I merely made a a few FACTUAL STATEMENTS followed by an opinion!

go try those scopes at 1800 yards and tell me the image is the same...in the details.

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Originally Posted by hafejd30

So Dave, your contribution to this thread is letting the OP know you haven’t done the shooting he’s looking to do, then recommend scopes you’ve never used.....

I know myself, in the $1200 price range I’d be picking up a Japanese NXS or Sightron, made by a reputable company, with a lot of shooters to back their products before I’d pick up the new latest/greatest scope out of China. As I said I do own the Cronus BTR and when set next to a NF ATACR the glass to my eyes is the same. NF Beast was same as well. Only time will tell if the Cronus holds up.

OP one of the big things to look at as well is the internal adjustment in the scope. On your list I believe the Nikons have struggled in this department. Maybe the newer stuff is better but shop for lots of internal adjustment.

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Got the Cronus in a trade. Otherwise I’d have bought an NXS. Cronus BTR is made by LOW which knows how to make and does make many of the best optics out there. I’ve never spent $2000 on a scope and that’s why I recommend Sightron. Cost way less and have proved their worth the price. As has NXS.

This internet special forces ninja has used the scopes he has suggested. Which was the advice the OP is looking for. Not the my friends, neighbors, dog walking buddy has X so get X. I suggested the Burris or Sightron because that is what is in the OP price range. The NXS is not but he’s willing to save for it. If we’re looking at S&B then consider Steiner M5 NF ATACR etc as well. That’s stepping into another category then was recommended.

You can be as butt hurt as you want over my comment but the fact is I have used the recommendations I’ve made. Still own them. And use them for what the OP would like to use them for.

If your calling guys like Mike and I internet ninjas etc because we have experience with these scopes/cartridges etc then your attempting to chase away the experience the OP is looking for.

Im sure the Ares is a great scope as well. I’m just suggesting options that have been out for a while and have more of a track record to go on. I jumped on the Vortex bandwagon when they first came out and was able to comment on their great customer service like most owners have used. Their Razor line and maybe PST Gen II maybe a different story. I jumped ship on them before they came out with those models.

You will be doing a lot of adjusting for that distance. So get a scope that can handle it. Get enough elevation internally in the scope to account for it. You may need to use the reticle for accounting for additional elevation as I had to do with my 260. But I wanted a 100 yard zero so I could sight it in in my backyard if needed.

Sincerely the tactical operating internet cool ninja that has shot a 338 Lapua over 1,000 yards with scopes the OP can afford now who also owns several 300’s, shoots 1,000 yard comps and owns/owned the scopes he recommends or doesn’t recommend.

Im not trying to stir the pot with you Dave but your calling out guys like me in the previous post you made. So I called you back out. Not the other way around. If you can’t afford the high end optics then I am sorry. They are nice but there are also nice optics that cost way less and do the same job. Owning optics and putting them through years of use is more valid then shooting a few rounds through a buddies gun. However if your referring to military experience when you’ve used the top tier optics then I say by all means recommend away, those get tested way more than anything I’ve suggested

Im not saying there the same at distance. I’m not sugggesting the Cronus will hold up as good or be on par with NF. Time will tell. But the OP isn’t shopping in the ATACR/BEAST/CRONUS category either

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Originally Posted by mikeinco

go try those scopes at 1800 yards and tell me the image is the same...in the details.

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Here’s the difference.
What you said “Look for a used deal on a 6-24 Sightron SIII. I’ve had/have”.

Now what did I say? Please quote where I said he SHOULD go with anything specific I don’t do that...YOU DO!


Uhh, yeah. Here’s how butt hurt I guess I am. Have fun. B-bye.

What I’m referring to is you suggesting the Ares and stating nothing can touch it for under 2k. Are we talking touching the features or the performance. The scope does have nice features. But I wouldn’t say a used NF NXS or a used ATACR can’t touch it. Both of which I’ve seen for sale under 2k. In ELR reliable tracking is #1 with scope clarity 2nd in my opinion. With mirage and what not your lucky if you can take advantage of the clarity on the highest level. Btw my NF is a 15-55 comp. Does have the “ED” glass. Ya it’s nice. But if we’re punching steel my Sightron doesn’t lag behind by much for the price. I will add there is a noticeable difference in clarity from my Sightron to my Burris XTR II. Sightron being better. But again I’m looking to shoot a dime, not read it

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Oh good grief! I love how the INTERWEB brings out the “Super Tacti-cool Experts of AWESOMENESS!” LOL! I am certainly not one them. I’ve never shot a long range competition or even at a dedicated 1000yd “range”. My distance shooting was across canyons and such in the Arizona desert. The old, “ok.., that rock!” But I have spent several decades collecting information & learning everything I can. Something I think everyone will agree on is it is never wrong to purchase the BEST optic you can afford. Which is best?? Well, that is a matter of preference. If you can, go top tier. Any of the known tier one choices are amazing! If I had my choice I would choose the Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25x56. But that will never happen. Far, far out of my price point! What I recommend is going with as many of the criteria points as you can within your price point. First & for most you want ED glass! Also, 24+ max magnification is needed for MOST of our mere mortal eyes. And having a 34mm tube & 56mm objective is nice. Within your indicated price point, there is a scope which meets all these criteria. The Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x56. Can pick them up for under $1200, and I really don’t know of anything else that can match it for under $2K! Would love to have one of these, but even $1100 is pretty north of my budget. Maybe one day.

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Being that I JUST prior to saying that went over nice features for an ultra long distance scope...I wonder what I talking about there??? Unbelievable!

Alright, sorry my bad bud.

Pretty much everything I am referring to is in terms of reliability. As far as features go I’d add the following

Athlon- most features- 34mm tube/FFP/Illuminated/nice zero stop/mine is MOA/MOA
Burris- same features as above- lacks glass clarity compared to the others. Nice turrets with great zero stop/FFP
NF - 30mm tube- non illuminated- excellent glass- has 0 stop but I don’t use it- SFP
Sightron- one is Illuminated- other than that 30mm tube- no zero stop etc- owned for the longest and been 100% reliable. Clarity is to my eyes on par with the NXS, slightly behind the Cronus and NF comp, definitely better than the Burris. Also Second Focal Plane

any of the above have great reticles to compliment great turrets.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Being that I JUST prior to saying that went over nice features for an ultra long distance scope...I wonder what I talking about there??? Unbelievable!

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well just as a reference point
i so shoot in competition from 100 2000 yards...group and score( no more steel)
scopes two 15-55x nf comps for 600/1000 br
one 12-42x nf br for 100/200 br
one 5.5-22x 56 nf on a mk13 sniper clone was 875-2023 steel, now 2000 group and score
one 7-35x atacr 2000 yd group and score
four ?? 36x luepold br scopes mainly 100/200 br
contemplating a 10-50 sightron for a "inexpensive" build for 2000 yd group and score..maybe be a used 12-42x nf,
real bullets down range

In Dale Carnegie's How To Win Friends And Influence People they do an exercise where you are broken up into groups and the group is given a topic to discuss. The caveat is that if you can't cite your actual experience then you are not allowed input. It was designed to show you that if you are not qualified to make an opinion you should listen a little closer, a speak a little less. In the age of the internet people watch videos and are experts.

I have looked through Steiners, Kahles, NF ATACR's and NXS's. I've looked through Sightron SIII's and Cronus BTR's, Vortex Viper PSTs and others and Gen II Razors. The sightron was great until I put it next to a NXS, The SIII went and hid under a rock. The BTR and the Gen II Razor were very nice at the ranges used...real nice! I thought the Kahles and the ATACR was the better glass but the conditions were different and I really would have to spend some real time behind them to be sure. Then there is the internal/mechanical properties of the scope. Clear glass is only a part of the equation.....so I'm going to not make a recommendation except to find a way to use several higher end scopes and highly tested and proven brands before you buy. How someone can recommend a scope without running it through the numbers, I will never understand.

so try eurooptics
they have a used 12-42x for 1250,
add some rings for tilt plus a tilted base
i bought a new one for my "inexpensive" 2000 yd build but i also have
a 150 moa adjustable base. so i can zero in the middleat 100, adjust for 2000 and then dial in the last bit.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

In Dale Carnegie's How To Win Friends And Influence People they do an exercise where you are broken up into groups and the group is given a topic to discuss. The caveat is that if you can't cite your actual experience then you are not allowed input. It was designed to show you that if you are not qualified to make an opinion you should listen a little closer, a speak a little less. In the age of the internet people watch videos and are experts.

I have looked through Steiners, Kahles, NF ATACR's and NXS's. I've looked through Sightron SIII's and Cronus BTR's, Vortex Viper PSTs and others and Gen II Razors. The sightron was great until I put it next to a NXS, The SIII went and hid under a rock. The BTR and the Gen II Razor were very nice at the ranges used...real nice! I thought the Kahles and the ATACR was the better glass but the conditions were different and I really would have to spend some real time behind them to be sure. Then there is the internal/mechanical properties of the scope. Clear glass is only a part of the equation.....so I'm going to not make a recommendation except to find a way to use several higher end scopes and highly tested and proven brands before you buy. How someone can recommend a scope without running it through the numbers, I will never understand.

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I 100% agree with this. Not sure who all it is directed at but if at me for stating the Cronus BTR is on par with the NF then I completely agree. I have very little time comparing them but was impressed by both. I do think both are better than the Sightron. But at a higher penny. And the Burris lags behind in terms of clarity and detail. The Burris in made in Philippines if anyone is curious.

I hate when a thread like this pops up and someone comments with nothing more than the BS jargon you’ll see in the add of promoted paper. Or end their suggestions with “looked through my buddies and can’t wait til mine arrives”. Real world experience is putting hundreds or thousands of rounds through what your suggesting, adjusting scopes lots and seeing repeat to zero/box tests etc.

I got suckered in by all the vortex crap when they first came out with all the bells and whistles. Again no real world experience was on them but that was because they were new. Now years later they fixed a lot of stuff, came out with new higher end models and seem to perform well. But the people who put lots of rounds through rifles with the 1st gen scopes had pretty much the same experience I had. Which is why I don’t recommend going with a new bells and whistles Chinese made scope, especially at $1200. Give it some time to prove itself. If they were made by Light Optical Works I’d say go for it, because I’ve used many of scopes made there and all have performed flawlessly. I wish people would shop more for reliability and focus less on the “need” for a 34mm tube, or 56 bell, or turrets that can dial to 1500 yards without ever seeing a complete revolution.

First start with the basics, finding a reliable scope that is proven to stand up to what your doing. Especially when it exceeds the 1k mark. Then see which is clearer. Then start looking at bells and whistles.

To the OP- you have indicated you have the money, so don’t buy China crap. If nothing else I suggest that. Look past scopes made in the Philippines as well. Go to scopes made by LOW or made in USA. You have the money to buy better, so do that. Any brand Mike listed in his list would be good brands to start with. Then do as he suggested, a base designed for what you want or a scope with enough elevation to accomplish this. I finished my corrections with the reticles as stated earlier. But I was just shooting steel. It would be more accurate in the long run to follow the info mike posted above.

Shooting buddy has the M112 in 338LM. The factory brake is quite effective, and I think you'll find that it's a puddy cat to shoot and will easily go the distance. We loaded it with 285 ELD-M and H1000 to shoot to a mile, but he also purchased Team Never Quit ammo in 300 SMK that also shot well.

The Sightron III 10-50x60 is a great scope and can be found used for a good price. Also the 8-36x56 is often available used, or new. Both have very good glass and are more than adequate for the job. FWIW, my buddy had a 12X Night Force on his and we had no trouble making first round hits at 1000 with it, standard steel target for that distance.

Other than the cost to feed and care for, I think you'll find it very pleasing to shoot. Something about the sound of that 300 grain bullet slamming into steel at 1000 yds......gets everyones attention.

“Alright, sorry my bad”

Agreed. My apologies as well. For what it’s worth, my initial post comment was not targeting anyone here, rather it was a “tongue in cheek” recognition of the “tone” these threads take on. 4 people can say 4 different things, and yet none are necessarily wrong! All too often people forget personal interpretation & preference.

Hopefully you don’t get my luck and get a bad Barrel. My factory barrel would throw the first round or 2 about 1 MOA low. When cold. Few rounds and would shoot good. Replaced scope/base/rings with no luck. We finally decided to pull the barrel and threaded a Shilen Select Match on. That barrel shot excellent with no flyers. Gave the barrel to my gunsmith who tried his luck with it and had same issues. Eventually cut it down for a 338 federal or something of the sort for a guy. Shorter barrel. Rechambered and recrown etc. Not sure what ever became of it. May be holding his tomatoes up now lol

I'm glad that you guys apologized to one another. I deal with confrontation all day. I don't like reading it on here as well. This site is one of my escapes from reality!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikeinco

the funny part about that sale is the moa version is 280 bucks more.
i think it is an unlit version at that price and the moa only comes lit.
i am actually looking at one for a cheap build i am working on,
but nay bite the bullet for a high powder nf and a tilting base.

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As far as I can tell there is no MOA version of that color that is on sale. I got one of them last fall and it did have a lighted reticle.

First, thanks to everyone for all the advice and recommendations, you’ve been a great help and pointed me in the right direction.

Picked up the gun today! Been reading scope reviews til I’m blue in the face, and to be honest I’m tired of looking. I think I narrowed it down to a couple choices, going with an entry level scope for now. I’m aware they aren’t “top of the line”, but I think they’ll work. By the time I need a better scope, I’ll have a better idea of what areas the scope is lacking and needs improvement.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/64...-reticle-matte

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/18...-reticle-matte

What say you, gents?

Being a MOA guy, I'd get the Vortex. Do you prefer MOA or MIL?

I’ve used moa so far, but I’m sure I could get used to the mil, just be learning time.

Just purchased a 110 BA, also .338 LM

About ready to pull the trigger on this:

https://cameralandny.com/shop/tags/r...iation=1796205

Still need to decide on mount (for ELR) and rings...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tobnpr

Just purchased a 110 BA, also .338 LM

About ready to pull the trigger on this:

https://cameralandny.com/shop/tags/r...iation=1796205

Still need to decide on mount (for ELR) and rings...

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This was my original recommendation based on the features...ED glass, 56mm obj. & 34mm main tube. And I think a healthy 30mil of adjustment. See what Rex had to say on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzUjXbGP-48&t=1574s
I am extremely fond of my Athlon...and I only have the Midas BTR, not even close to the Ares ETR.

As for mount & rings...just make certain to use rings in either Alloy steel or 7075-T6 billet. Pick which ever you like the looks of. The top rings are all fantastic! Same goes for the scope base. Or you can get REAL froggy and check out the Murphy Precision Titanium. Expensive....but it’s Titanium! Which just has a “cool factor” all its own. https://www.murphyprecision.com/Products/Item/1006