Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
I create a build thread in other forums for everything else... cars, trucks, motorcycles... so I thought I’d document my progress on my new rifle here.
I purchased a new Model 10 FCP-SR (Savage SKU # 22441) on 2/18/19. I was mainly interested in the following features:
- 24” heavy fluted/threaded barrel
- Accu-trigger
- Accu-stock
- 10-rnd mag
EDIT: I called Savage to get some more info on the rifle. I wanted to know whether it came with a metal trigger guard, and it does. Serial number is K939xxx, and it was manufactured 3/26/2018. Savage CS stated that some of the “newer” FCP-SR rifles came with a 20 MOA scope rail from the factory, but mine has a 0 MOA rail.
The purpose of this firearm is for recreational shooting out to 1000 yards and possibly some hunting, if I can find a rig that’ll allow me to comfortably carry a 12+ lb rifle. I’m looking at FFP optics from Vortex and Athlon. Leupold if I can find a deal, or Sig Tango4/6 if I can find one to try out.
I'm planning to paint this rifle with Aluma-Hyde epoxy, and I wanted a decent factory stock to start with (and not ruin an expensive aftermarket stock).
I found Ross Schuler’s contact info in a thread somewhere and reached out to him for a muzzle brake. I just got off the phone with him, and I’m already wowed by his level of service. He’s offered to time the muzzle brake to my specific rifle by using the threads in the thread protector so I don’t need a crush washer or jam nut; how cool is that? And you can’t beat the price... so the first mod is in the books, even before the rifle has arrived.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
Here are a couple of Home Depot parts bags for reference:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...272dc63719.jpg
The stock is right around 1-1/2” wide. If you add two layers of 0.125” Kydex, that comes to 1-3/4”. These fasteners are for a Karsten-style cheek riser. As a bonus, the heads are 5/32” drive, just like the stock.
EDIT: These bolts are just a bit too long. Rather than returning them, I’ll probably just cut them a little shorter.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
I made a quick mock-up template for my cheek riser. I’ll probably tighten up that radius at the back corner. I haven’t measured it for a Kydex sheet yet, but it’s around 8”x8” or less.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92d53653e8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5cd13efd0c.jpg
I’ll scan it, clean it up, print it, and cut it out on a fresh sheet before transferring it to Kydex. I’ll share the final template here in case anyone wants it. This will go on my stock, mounted with flush hardware under my stock pack. I’m expecting to epoxy some Velcro to the Kydex so that the pack doesn’t slide around.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
When I threw all of the screws in a pile, they were all the same length. I checked the holes before reinstalling to see if they went through, and they didn't appear to. I ran into what you're describing on a 10/22 once.
EDIT: I didn’t answer your question; yes, the bolt operates just fine.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
Good news - I sold my Saiga, so I’m going scope shopping tonight. I have my eye on a Sig Sauer Tango4 6-24x50 with the MOA Dev-L reticle. I looked through one at a few hundred yards last week and really liked it. I was also looking at a comparatively Vortex Viper. The Vortex turrets are better, but the Sig SBT is a nice option and I think I like the Sig FFP reticle better.
I need to find out what rings will work on a 20 MOA rail with that scope. It’s got a 30mm barrel.
Also, I put together my cheek riser template. It didn’t print exactly to size, but it’s close enough that it’s probably not worth messing with any longer. You can view and download it here.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
Two updates: I received my muzzle brake from Ross Schuler. It’s a really nice piece, matched precisely to the barrel diameter:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85aef9c2c2.jpg
I also put on a stock pack. I went with a combination of multicam and genuine suede. I’m going to update the other thread I started with the details about how helpful Bill from www.tacticalsharpshooter.com was in selecting this pack.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f511ea8ad.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...660374939e.jpg
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
I received my scope last night, finally. It was a toss-up between the Athos ETR and the Vortex Viper, and in the end the Vortex won out for two reasons: the no-questions warranty and the price. The Athos is a better optic, from what I hear; I’ve never held one. But I ultimately plan to paint this rifle, and Athos specifically calls out “painting or coating” as a warranty no-no whereas Vortex doesn’t care if you drop your scope into a barrel of paint and light it on fire. It didn’t hurt that I also found a good deal on the Viper online.
I was happy to learn that the Vortex Tactical low 30mm rings worked just fine! Plenty of clearance at the objective (barrel) and eyepiece (bolt) ends, even with a 20 MOA rail and flip-up caps.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d58a34a3ff.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7975ccb3ef.jpg
I set eye relief in prone position with the scope turned all the way up to 25x.
I mounted and lapped the rings, then cleaned everything up and mounted the scope using some cheap bubble levels from Amazon.
I have the E-10 and O-44 Defender caps from Vortex as well. The objective end is really tight... [S]but that’s better than the alternative, I guess.[/S] I just ordered the O-50 cap. I didn't realize it, but I had the wrong size.
As it sits...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec431fc6b4.jpg
One other observation: I’m definitely going to need more comb on this stock. It looks like I’ll be moving ahead with making a Kydex cheek riser.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
I played around a bit with the template for the cheek riser. Because the comb of the stock slopes downward from the scope eyepiece to the butt pad, I decided I would try to level it out with the riser... which means mounting it at a slight angle. I incorporated a 5-degree angle into the sides, back, and mounting holes to hopefully give me a comb that’s flat front-to-back and still follows the lines of the stock. Here’s the result.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...21c5b32e4e.jpg
This looks like it’ll work. The top of the comb is more or less parallel with the centerline of the scope, and the slots are close to vertical so the riser won’t move forward or backward depending on its height. That’s what I was shooting for in this version.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Rocketmandb
1) Are you going to bed the scope rail? It takes only a little time, is inexpensive/easy to do, and can alleviate some issues if the rail doesn't perfectly match the mounts (which it seldom does).
I wasn’t planning to, but I did lap the rings—which is sort of “downstream” of bedding the rail. I THINK any issues with the rail binding/bending would have showed themselves with the rings mounted and the alignment kit in place.. wouldn’t they? Out of the box with everything mounted, alignment was perfect. I lapped the rings anyway to remove any high spots, and only the inside bottoms were scrubbed away a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Rocketmandb
2) On the cheek riser you're building, try to get the sides as close to the stock as possible. The farther off the stock it is, the more you have to angle your head to line up your eye with the scope. I played around with a friend's and I had to angle too much. It forced my ear muff cup off my right ear. His was probably 1/4" off the stock.
I have a 1/8” thick sheet of Kydex I haven’t cut yet. Once cut, I’ll be using a heat gun to shape it. I’ll hit it on both sides, right down the spine, and then form it to the stock. So, about the bend: should I go for exactly the same profile as the rifle stock comb? Looking at it from the back, should I try to get more of an upside-down V, or an upside-down U? I’ll have the stock pack installed over the top of it, too, so that’ll push my face out a little further. I’ve played around with it while looking through the scope, and I think I have some wiggle room with my head to go “out” from the center of the stock... that is, I can stand to have my cheek weld pushed left a bit (right-handed shooter, right eye dominant).
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Rocketmandb
Looks like it's going to be a fun rifle.
I hope. I’ve been moving into a house over the past week and it’s been sitting in a box. I need to find some time to get it sighted in.
Model 10 FCP-SR build thread
Revisiting this thread after a move—still in progress—but I’ve made headway on the cheek riser, so I thought I’d post it.
I shaped the 1/8” Kydex with a Dremel. It cut easily enough, and I sanded the edges with 320 grit sandpaper. I’ll probably do some finer shaping with a dowel and some coarse paper, but the 320 is all I have on hand.
I cut the Velcro section that I’m going to adhere to the Kydex. I’m going to have to do some research on what epoxy holds best. Before I do that, though, I’ll be drilling holes for the adjustment slots. After that, bending. I’ll probably go with a rounder profile than what’s on the stock. I plan to use star washers between the riser and the stock for grip, but nothing else for spacing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c390538f49.jpg
As for the rail bedding... I think it’s a good idea. I will probably get the chance to tackle that in the next few weeks.
EDIT: The Internet says 3M weatherstrip adhesive is the ticket for Velcro-Kydex bonding.