it this common? gunsmithing related

Ok, so I'm wondering if this is common or not and if there's any need to correct this .

Have a left handed short action receiver.

I can turn the bolt till the bolt handle touches the rear slot in the receiver at the tang. Stock bolt handle. Looks like the design is such that the bolt turns until the bolt handle contacts the bottom of the cut out in the tang, is that correct?

Now, I removed the barrel for a re barrel, and when I close the bolt and look down the receiver at the bolt face I noticed the lugs actually travel further than 90 degrees before coming to a hard stop, if that makes sense.

This bolt travels about 95 degrees instead of 90 before the bolt handle comes to a stop at that milled out spot on the tang.

From what I can see this should not be an issue, but perhaps I'm overlooking something :) Curious...

Think I just found and answer to my own question... I removed the bolt handle and found there's a good bit of slop / play in the connection between bolt body and bolt handle, so the position of the bolt handle varies depending on where the bolt handle is at when you tighten the rear allen key bolt. Moved the handle and tightene the allen key bolt so that the handle touches the tang a little earlier when closing the bolt, and that made the lugs come to a rest at about 90 degrees.

The bas screw (allen in your case) is normally very tight. Question came up a while back about its actual torque. There was varying answers as I recall. Maybe sharpshooter will chime in here with what he believes is the torque value.

I had the opposite on mine. I have a aftermarket handle on my 111 and found it was thicker where it fits into the cutout in the receiver, causing the bolt/lugs to stop shy of being 90 degrees. The bolt closed enough to still function, but the lugs were not 90 degrees. I fixed it with a little work with a file and it now closes at a perfect 90 degrees. (filed the aftermarket bolt handle, not the receiver)

Only and biggest worry I see would be the cocking piece and it’s relative position. Could cause drag and other issues.

Over or under rotation usually doesn't affect anything as long as the cocking piece pin does not drag on the cocking ramp cut out when fired. I've seen instances where the bolt body itself was out of phase, meaning that the cross pin hole and the bolt handle tabs were not perpendicular. There is no assigned value to torque on the bas, it just has to be tight enough not to come loose under normal circumstances.

The bolt body has ears that should fit fairly snuggly into notches in the bolt handle. If you have a lot of play, enough for 5 degrees of extra rotation, I would suspect something is not quite right.