That's not good.

Well been playing around with this M11 .308 for a while now. PGT bottom metal Boyds Tac stock. I opened the stock for the heavy barrel contour and for the bottom metal. When I was cleaning up all the saw dust I found a small crack running through the rear action screw hole. So all this work for nothing.
So my question is there a way to fix it? Was thinking pillers but there's not much material around the hole. This is a bottom bolt release model. And ideas would be great hate to scrap it.

Thankshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...541bdee81b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f74e3503c3.jpg

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the thing I've heard guys having luck with is to insert pillars. The Devcon or adhesive used to set the pillars supposedly takes care of that split around the rear pillar. You might want to do a little extra application on the mag well side too? When I pillar bedded my Pro Varmint the rear action screw hole split on me too (not all the way thru to the mag well side though). The Accraglass bedding compound I used took care of the split around the rear action screw. It's solid now. I have heard that the black PV model isn't made of the same laminate wood that the other ones are (I have the coyote) and are more prone to splitting apparently.

Wish I could be more help,

Thanks. Yeah the more i learn about these stocks I find some are that good. I'll look in to the pillers idea some more.

Thanks

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK3g...ndex=15&t=486s\

This might help a bit. I used this video to do my pillars on my axis as well as my 111

Brownells sells threaded brass stock pins. You can drill crossways through the stock to either side of the action bolt hole and then screw the pin in with a slow drill speed after filling the hole with epoxy. Then file the ends flush. It will stabilize the area.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...t-prod617.aspx

My Boyd's stock has a "cross-bolt" at the action lug.

A penetrating epoxy - like West Systems - would seep into the crack some. Surprisingly, the latest CA (cyanoacrylate) glues penetrate deep in cracks and do hold up.

Attached pic threaded lamp nipple pillar added to cracked Boyd's laminate. Piece was completely gone by trigger. Over 300 rounds of 257 Bob A.I. since repair. Front pillar and skim bedding were added at same time.
Attachment 5246

I’m with Stumpkiller on the stock pins. Would be my first choice. I would also pillar it at the same time. Why not?

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Originally Posted by RustyShackle

I’m with Stumpkiller on the stock pins. Would be my first choice. I would also pillar it at the same time. Why not?

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+1 stock pins, pillars and bedding.

Thanks everyone. Let you know what I decide. Going to talk with a gunsmith friend and see what we can do. I'll keep you all posted. Hope to shoot it soon.

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Good luck. Truly, it doesn't look like a bad problem. Unfortunate, but correctable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stumpkiller

Surprisingly, the latest CA (cyanoacrylate) glues penetrate deep in cracks and do hold up.

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I love that stuff, and I admit it, I'm addicted to it. I buy it big bottles, in different viscosities, and get the setter spray and everything. CA is the only glue I know of that will stand up to gasoline. Another good trick is baking soda: it sets up ca almost instantly, thickens it, and strengthens the bond. There is no end to CA's usefulness.
I read a story from a helicopter mechanic who got some cop who pulled him over entirely too exited when he found a big bag of baking soda in his car. He uses it with CA to repair dings in the leading edges of composite helicopter blades, that's how they do that. I can see that working very easily- the repair, anyway, he didn't have much luck convincing said cop that said bag was full of ordinary baking soda, and not some kind of controlled substance. They always think they know everything.

So I am going to run on a bit, and add a trick for epoxy. I read somewhere that some of the solid rocket boosters used on NASA's space rockets are made from "graphite epoxy". So now I like to add powdered graphite dry lock lubricant (also very good for guns in arctic conditions, since it can't freeze!) to that stuff. It makes sense, graphite is a type of carbon fiber, and reinforces polyester resins like epoxy much the same way (as does old school fiberglass), as well as improving it's resistance to heat. It seems to work pretty well.

I had a At-One stock split in the same way on both sides of the rear action screw. I decided to break out the wood and used some tin to form a mold and filled it in with JB Weld then I did a pillar and epoxy bed on the action. Here is a pic of the stock repair before the bedding job.
Attachment 5281