has anyone cut down a fluted barrel into the fluted area, i'm looking to have mine cut down and threaded, how do you think it would turn out. would it be possible to have the flutes continue on the brake after its been timed correctly...
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has anyone cut down a fluted barrel into the fluted area, i'm looking to have mine cut down and threaded, how do you think it would turn out. would it be possible to have the flutes continue on the brake after its been timed correctly...
where's all the experts ???
Personally never thought much of the flutting done on barrels. Always doubted the supposedly advantages tooted by the scribes. Never thought of what your proposing too do so that adds another dimension too disadvantages. Recently read an article in latest issue of Varmit Hunter magazine whereby the author made some claims about undesirability of flutted barrels. Some of the things he mentions I've experienced so tend too believe the article.
Since there's no responses too date suspect maybe no ones done this either. Maybe you'll have too do the experimenting and report back.
It is recommended that you don't cut into the flutes
The only common misconception about fluting I am aware of is that fluting a bull barrel will increase its stiffness. A fluted barrel is stiffer than a non-fluted barrel of the same weight, but a fluted barrel does not weigh as much as it did before the flutes were cut nor is it as stiff.Quote:
Originally Posted by hailstone
What are the disadvantages, besides decreased accuracy when the flutes are improperly cut? You have a lighter barrel that is stiffer than other barrels of the same weight, and the barrel cools faster than a conventional barrel. Do people make fun of you at the range for being too trendy? That's one of the disadvantages of thumbhole stocks. That and it takes longer to get off a second shot with a bolt action.
thanks for the responses. the barrel is already fluted and i wanted to cut it down to 20" which is into the fluted area & have it threaded. i guess i'll look into getting a shorter barrel.
I have seen one where the smith cut an 1-1.5 section where the flutes ended and used this to make a tread cap. He then cut down the barrel and threaded it. He then timmed the cap so it matched up with the flutes. This was done so a suppressor could be used it look very good. When the can wasnty on the cun it just looked like a factory fluted barrel. I dont know how much work it was or what it cost.
I have done this to my dads Encor barrel (they run the flutes like 3/8" from the end of the barrel so I had to cut into the flutes to put a brake on). He thinks it looks fine I thought it was just OK but not to bad. I do not see any down sides to it other than the looks. Good luck.
Cut the barrel off. And have a brake made from the stub.
any pics??Quote:
Originally Posted by jc
thats an idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Gunter
will a ported barrel work the same as putting on a muzzel brake>
I dont believe that the ported barrels are as efficient at the job as a brake.
You could take the stub and machine the brake into it. Thread the barrel and the stub to match. The stub can be thread timed so that the brake parting line is not visible at all and the flutes just continue. Some transition zone would be needed to go from flute to crown in order to make it all appealing. I believe it would be very nice looking and functional. :)
I have very limited machining experience, but I believe cutting the threads in order to get the fluting on the two pieces to match up is what is referred to in the trade as "a real pain in the @$$."Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Gunter
I imagine you would have to do it one of two ways, one would be to make your thread protector a little on the long side& face off a couple thou at a time until the flutes line up, or you would have to use a crush washer, but it wouldn't be as seamlessQuote:
Originally Posted by borg
any pics??
[/quote]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010053.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010055.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010056.jpg[/img]
Sorry about the cell phone pics.
In theory it could work but on a barrel with any taper at all it would involve different diameters. The material removed when the end of the barrel was parted off is simply gone and then there would be the set back required for the threads. To make it all blend after it was threaded and timed the barrel would have to be turned to blend to the smaller diameter of the brake and the flutes cut deeper. It would be much easier (and cheaper) to start with a large diameter blank and make a brake then turn it to match the barrel diameter and machine the flutes into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Gunter
[/quote]
I have very limited machining experience, but I believe cutting the threads in order to get the fluting on the two pieces to match up is what is referred to in the trade as "a real pain in the @$$."
[/quote]
It's not really that bad, just involves a little math and some measuring skills.
Bob
I'll take your word for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010053.jpg[/img]Quote:
Originally Posted by jc
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010055.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/tule-man/10082010056.jpg[/img]
Sorry about the cell phone pics.
[/quote]
nice , i like it. thanks for the pics. is that a bull barrel or varmint?
Varmint with 1" brake.