Once I get headspace properly set on my new barrel, What happens if the muzzlebrake isn't horizontally aligned other than a face full of dirt. If I encounter this problem, how would I go about solving this problem?
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Once I get headspace properly set on my new barrel, What happens if the muzzlebrake isn't horizontally aligned other than a face full of dirt. If I encounter this problem, how would I go about solving this problem?
You would have to send this off to a gunsmith, and have the break "clocked" to the position needed for proper head space.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootinsurveyor
If the break is threaded and removable, I hear a shim kit works well. Bill
With that brake you would have to remove it and use a crush washer to set it to time since it is not machined to match countour, i believe. Somebody out there may know of a better way. I am still anxious to hear how that things shoots.
crush washer...
crush washer, sometimes called a peel washer also
Crush washers and peel washers are two different things.
A peel washer is a laminate if very thin layers of metal. The layers can be peeled off individually to get to the desired thickness.
A crush washer does exactly as the name implies. The washer is crushed to the desired thickness.
Crush washers are cheaper and IMHO easier to use than peel washers.
http://ar15barrels.com/tech/washers.jpg
Dolomite
Thanks for all the ideas. I talked to a gunsmith today who said he could do it for about 100 bucks. Then he started talking about extra cost for chambering if the barrel wouldn't headspace so I don't think he is very familiar with savages or I didn't do a good enough job explaining it was a factory barrel taken off another gun. Either way, I probably will have to take it to a smith, but luckily there is one close by. Do the crush washers crush as I screw the brake on to the threads and just have it "crushed" tight when i get it on and aligned fairly well?
yup pretty much
Dolomite thanks for the info,thats why I love this forum,you learn something new evertime you log on :)
Glad I could help. I was really heavy into AR's at one point and that is the only reason I knew. With them you had to use either cush or peel to get the muzzle brake clocked correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper9696
To the OP:
The crush washers are slowly crushed as the brake is tightened. You just keep tightening until the brake is in the correct position. No need to add any type of threadlocker either. The pressure of the crush washer should keep the brake from working loose.
If the muzzle is already threaded then the cost should be relatively low. If he does have to thread the muzzle then I would say average cost is $75-$100. To get the thread concentric to the bore, which they should be, the barrel needs to be off the gun. After that it is just a matter of setting headspace which is quick and easy on a Savage. My smith used to charge me $30 to do barrel swaps on Savages because it would take him so little time to do so.
I would normally add a small dab of grease to the threads to make sure the resistance I feel is the crush washer and not the two metal parts galling. Also, if you plan on taking it off regularly you might try anti seize to make that easier.
Dolomite
If you are not into pretty you can just loctite it in place with a gap that will show a bit I had sinman thread 7 barrells for me and i use the same break on all of them with a locknut works great and save the cost of 6 more brakes Fred Now it arsn't that purty but niether am I
Dolomite
The barrel is already threaded since the break is already installed from the factory. I just have to get it clocked right if it doesn't line up once headspace is set. Thanks for all the info.