The standard Swift has a 21 degree shoulder, how would I headspace a 30 degree Swift when there’s no 30 degree Go, No-Go gauges?
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The standard Swift has a 21 degree shoulder, how would I headspace a 30 degree Swift when there’s no 30 degree Go, No-Go gauges?
Where did the 30 degree barrel come from? Is it a .220 Swift Ackley or maybe a .220 Wby Rocket? I know at least one version of the .220 Wilson Arrow had a 30 degree shoulder.
new barrel or do you have any fired brass?
Shilen has a 30 degree Swift - I’m considering it for a Savage target action.
So nobody can suggest how to Head space it?
Is the shoulder blown out to 30* or bumped back to 30*?
Guessing it's blown out based on case design.... Maybe you could use a no-go gauge as your go gauge and add a piece of scotch tape to the bottom to make it your no-go. But I don't know how much the shoulder is being moved on the fire-formed case.
Best bet call Shilen an ask them
They also produce a barrel with a 40 shoulder which is probably the Ackley Improved.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by drybean
This
Yup. I’ll call Shilen.
If you have the Hornady headspace gauge. Measure neck and shoulder and add, then divide by 2 and pick the insert number closest. You measure headspace at the shoulder datum line or the center of the shoulder. You should be using a piece of brass fired in your chamber. Wildcats are just that, you have to treat them as originals.
Bill
Thanks to all for the suggestions and interest.
Bill, I can’t use a fired case till I headspace the the new barrel.
I'm interested in the 30* shoulder not the 40*.
That would mean blowing out from the standard 21* shoulder.
Where did the 30* shoulder come from? From Harvey Donaldson, his Wasp has a 30* shoulder and my 60 year old Taylor and Robbins Wasp shoots 5 shot groups in the 1’s and 2’s @ 100 yds.
I’m after more efficient combustion with the steeper shoulder and less case lenghtening in the Swift.
You might want to look at the .220 Wilson Arrow. I don't know what dies would cost, but when I almost built a .256 Newton it was the cost of dies that stopped me.
Like I wrote, this is about a Savage target action and a Shilen barrel. Shilen doesn’t list the Arrow in cartridges they chamber.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHitchcox
They do list a 30* degree shoulder Swift.
I got a full length bushing die for a 219 Wasp from Whidden. They made it from 3 fired cases. LE Wilson provided a neck die and seater die.
Dies aren’t my problem.
Gotta go, got to figure out how to headspace a 30* Swift.. ...
The 21 degree shoulder should hit the major shoulder diameter of the chamber. Headspace with the 21* case. Fire form the brass to the chamber. Neck size if you can. Fire form again. Measure to the datum to see if it is consistent with the cartridge drawing, good? call John....or no good adjust the headspace using tape. Do what you have to do to get good fired cases. Have John make the dies with three of your fire formed pcs of brass. It is yours. Make it that way. .010 short or .010 long dos not matter. As long as the case protrusion is right. .125?
Robinhood,
That seems like a valid approach. With the barrel nut I could easily increase the headspace with shims.
I picture headspace with a standard 21* gauge and when fired, it would expand to a 30* shoulder. I don’t know how the neck and body length would come out, but as you say Mr. Whidden can make the dies.
I still want to hear what Shilen suggests.
Thanks
I'll never use Whidden dies again..... Rusting within a few months, poor machining, tool marks on my brass, bent rods, non-concentric, etc. I'll be sticking with Forster or Redding period. Not to mention the CS at Whidden got pissy with me about the issues with their product.... and I have read numerous accounts from other serious competitive shooters who have had the same experience.... Not just an oops, but regularly unsatisfied customers. My advice if you do go with Whidden is to thoroughly inspect the dies upon receipt before any use.
Lonewolf, that’s too bad you had such a negative experience with Whidden Dies.
When I was looking to get a custom die made for my Wasp, my research found Whidden was highly recommended by those who had their dies. I got the die from Whidden in 4 weeks, it included a shoulder bump gauge and it’s worked perfectly for me. The real test for me is how the ammo shoots, ammo loaded with the Whidden FL bushing die for my Wasp shoots 52 Sierras consistently under .25”
I'm with you on Whidden Dies. I was sorely disappointed with a set I purchased. Some of the machine work looked like it was done by a High School shop class. Like the large "Knobs" but I don't see the precision the price would suggest. I'm back to ReddingQuote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolf