Trophy Hunter Stock Replacement

Okay I did something stupid in a hurry and bought the "Trophy Hunter XP" last fall. 116 in 7mm Rem mag. I like savage and I like the actions that a working guy can modify. Unfortunately I was used to a 264 Win Mag that I could consistently get 2in groups at 300 yards. I have not been impressed with the accuracy of the 116. I installed an EGW 0moa rail and their practical scope rings. Now I have been looking at replacing the stock and came upon something that I haven't found much info on. Boyds now offers stocks cut for the trophy hunter xp package and its lack of bottom metal. If I purchase one of these stocks, and it still does not quite reach my expectations, what are my chances of getting a good solid pillar bedding job in the stock with it not having any bottom metal for the action screws to set in? Has anyone tried this? Would I be better off buying one that would take the bottom metal and buy that too or buying one for a blind mag and converting to that? I don't want to buy a stock now to find out in a year, when I have some more money saved, that I need a different stock to get better accuracy.

I do not understand. You say they make a stock for the TH that does not require any bottom metal, plastic or otherwise?

I think you are misunderstanding something. I don't think that is possible to do. I don't see it on their website, either. I am also a Boyd's dealer.

I assume it takes the factory plastic trigger guard. It is listed with a different description than the stocks listed for the 116 with the dbm and the factory bottom metal. Possibly I simply did not understand and just need enlightened.

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Before you jump to the conclusion that it's the stock's fault, how many types of ammo have you tried?

I have owned three Savage Trophy Hunter's with the "cheap" plastic stock, and all three have been able to shoot sub-MOA consistently, once I found the right factory ammo or handload for them, and once I relieved the contact points between the stock tip and the barrel (two of the three were touching slightly and needed to be opened up).

The stock may be your problem, but I'd look at the ammo question first.

BTW, even the cheap plastic TH stocks are already pillar bedded.

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Originally Posted by Farmboy-9

I assume it takes the factory plastic trigger guard. It is listed with a different description than the stocks listed for the 116 with the dbm and the factory bottom metal. Possibly I simply did not understand and just need enlightened.

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THere's nothng special about it. Maybe a wider relief cut for the wider trigger guard used with Accutriggers. In any event, it requires the purchase of bottom metal parts from Savage. It's the plastic "surround" or "frame" that surrounds the mag well. Can be metal or plastic. If you read the bottom of the final page of the notes and description, it says you need to order the bottm metal from Savage.

Okay. Thanks for the clarification. Guess I failed to read that. I really like the finish and feel of the Boyd's laminate stocks and will call Savage about the bottom metal.

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Probably farther ahead to buy a custom bbl and keep using the original stock. My two cents

Sure. Either version will work. Metal might make for stronger, more solid mount, but I doubt you'll notice any difference at ranges within 300 yards. The biggest difference would be that the metal version has a better means of securing the mag in place. THe plastic one is about $15, the metal one is about $75. If you decide to go metal, don't let them talk you into a metal mag bottom unless you want it. The one you have will work fine with either frame. The plastic bottom piece just has a plastic catch that holds it in place and needs to be cut off if you go with the metal frame.

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Originally Posted by Newtosavage

Before you jump to the conclusion that it's the stock's fault, how many types of ammo have you tried?

I have owned three Savage Trophy Hunter's with the "cheap" plastic stock, and all three have been able to shoot sub-MOA consistently, once I found the right factory ammo or handload for them, and once I relieved the contact points between the stock tip and the barrel (two of the three were touching slightly and needed to be opened up).

The stock may be your problem, but I'd look at the ammo question first.

BTW, even the cheap plastic TH stocks are already pillar bedded.

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I have tried 5 different factory loads in the gun. Found one that gave me consistent shot placement and groups, albeit large, at the time. Since then I have had the rifle apart 3 times. Once to check it over. Another to free float the barrel from several major contact points and free float the tang and once to loctite all the hardware. It definitely improved it to do that. I have been hunting with a bipod and that seems to make the issues worse but I want to continue using one.

I have been considering going back and trying different factory loads now after the work I have done to it. I do not have reloading equipment so reluctant to try to go that route until I am forced to. The gun is currently shooting a 2in group at 100 yards from a bipod and a 1.5in group from a bag. It will not group any tighter than that from a benchrest unless changing the scope mounts 2 weeks ago changed that as I have not tried it on one since then.

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You should get better than 1.5 off bags. Are you putting the bag behind or just under the recoil lug or out in front of it? My guess the stock is still flexing and hitting the barrel if your bag is in front of the recoil lug.

If you plan to use a bipod, forget even trying to shoot it with the factory stock.

I like the thought of just needing to buy the bottom metal and not the mag bottom for now.

I finally took a Dremel and inletted the forend until I had could slide a ziptie all the way to the barrel nut. But like already mentioned there is some visible flex when loading the bipod.

I have been placing the bag out front. I am going to try it with the bag under the recoil lug and see what I get for groups before I go on to put a different stock on and go back to the bipod.

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