Quarter to Half MOA from all Factory Components?

I have had a few Savage bolt actions over the years, and every single one of them has been a great shooter.

I recently finished a build that is all factory, and shoots ragged hole groups, and holds a half MOA at least to 700 yards (I need to get this one out further).

So many people under-rate the performance of Savage factory barrels, they produce one of the best button rifled barrels on the market and they are more accurate than a lot of shooters. For an all-factory build, this rifle is great fun.

The base rifle is a Savage model 11 Hog Hunter in 308.

The barrel is a Model 12 308 Barrel from Armslist, it was 26", I had Jim from Bison chop it to 18.5", crown and thread the muzzle ( $135 shipped + $100 for the work because he was building some other barrels too and just tossed this in that batch of work. )
http://www.armslist.com/posts/508517...l----take-off-

http://www.bisongunworks.com/index.html

The Chassis is a Model 10 BA chassis, the original one with the PRS stock and Ergo PS grip. I traded a guy a $300 AR upper for it. I did have to bed the chassis, the recoil lug had little to no engagement, and then I had to torque the action screws much higher than my regular stocks due to the fins in the chassis that support the sides of the receiver.

The scope base is a Weaver 20MOA Aluminum base ( $26.00 ): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The rings are Warne High Matte rings ( $37.00 ): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The scope is Bushnell's outstanding for the money G2 Reticle FFP 6-24x50: https://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Tact.../dp/B006UKMDFO

So this is a budget build by anybody's standards, but the results are outstanding. I'll get some 100 yard groups on paper soon and update you guys on those, just for reference.

Here is some eye candy of the build:

The full rig with suppressor ( Silencerco Omega with Bowers Griptastic Cover )
https://goo.gl/photos/n7SvJhH7UQbTKKCy5

The factory BA Chassis with no magazine, sling, or bipod attached weighs in at 5.52lbs (88.4oz)
https://goo.gl/photos/imhmDRPi9BwSVAtC6

The bedding in the chassis - notice it's the front and rear only, the sides are handled by the fins that actually flex to hold the receiver:
https://goo.gl/photos/EZCbmTbLddgu3nTp8

The rifle up close, note: the clear rubber overcoat of the paint job is peeling, and the rifle needs some detail cleaning, I am adding a touch more bedding in the rear of the receiver to eek out a touch more accuracy.
https://goo.gl/photos/jF52in2umQz5avAN6

The barrel measured out:
https://goo.gl/photos/Fp4mzKnURboVthD17

The barrel stamp showing caliber and donor rifle model:
https://goo.gl/photos/GTaKPwv22Td7RKVA9

And if you care to zoom in, a scaled silhouette at 500 yards with under 3" group of about 20 rounds I was just hammering the plate for fun:
https://goo.gl/photos/KV68VjMcAiZVgTy36

as well as a 400 yard plate with 3 shots (two literally stacked on top of each other):
https://goo.gl/photos/14knd4Qu6pjQh4QK8

Do you think you can stay super-sonic to 1000 yards with the short barrel? Please send me a PM when you get there. You have mastered doping the wind, congratulations! My long range shooting falls apart in the wind.... and we always have it. I have improved the accuracy with most every barrel I have shortened. What did you do to the chassis and how did you bed it?

Bill

With the 168gr Hornady Zmax projectile (I got them on sale at Cabelas) leaving the muzzle at 2650fps, these are super-sonic until between 1050 and 1100 yards.

With the 175gr SMK or Nosler Custom Competition projectile you get to 1150 before going transonic.

The data from shooterscalculator.com held true to 700 with 3 different loads, everybody made their hits at the class we were running. I have a few apps I use on the phones like Strelok, Strelok pro, etc.

I will post pictures of the bedding later today, I added some more to the rear of the chassis last night since I was having a little horizontal stringing.

168 grain chart:

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ba...+Create+Chart+

175 grain chart:

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ba...+Create+Chart+

The goal of this build was sort of a tactical take on the Cooper Scout Rifle concept. The reason for documenting this is that I am sending this chassis off to a friend who is building a more bench style gun in 6.5 Creedmore. I built his Hog Hunter out with a 24" Model 10 barrel and a Choate stock. His gun is also scarily accurate. He wants to build a heavier gun and will most likely use a custom barrel for it.

That being said, I have ordered a Masterpiece Arms BA Lite, side folding chassis which should weigh in 2lbs lighter than this stock, and only 4 ounces heavier than the wood laminate stock I have for this same rifle.

The goal is still a very portable, not very heavy, 1000 yard capable rifle I can carry for long distances for hunting and PRS style competition.

Here is the rifle in the wood laminate stock.

https://goo.gl/photos/9p4fHh25CYKrUEuQA

Quote:

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Originally Posted by theroblong

So many people under-rate the performance of Savage factory barrels, they produce one of the best button rifled barrels on the market and they are more accurate than a lot of shooters.

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A more correct statement might be "sometimes, or occasionally, they produce ~~~~~~~~"

I have a take-off barrel from a 10T that I might take the time to clean and post some Bore Cam pictures of the bore. Throat is OK, so is rifling for the first several inches. From there it looks like they tried to button rifle an already contoured barrel and the button didn't create rifling the same depth as the rifling closer to the breech. For the last couple inches it looks like the rifling is merely "marks" on the bore.

Also, the barrel was as rough a barrel as I've ever seen with "bumps" the full length of the groove, looking just line Caterpillar Tractor Cleat Marks.

Replaced it with a Benchmark and fouling went down to nil and accuracy increased by over double.

OK, maybe I got a bad barrel but based on others comments around the "net" I'm not alone. The rest of the "working parts" were left alone and the rifle now shoos down in the high teens to mid-upper 20's depending on the day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deadshot2

A more correct statement might be "sometimes, or occasionally, they produce ~~~~~~~~"
Replaced it with a Benchmark and fouling went down to nil and accuracy increased by over double.

OK, maybe I got a bad barrel but based on others comments around the "net" I'm not alone. The rest of the "working parts" were left alone and the rifle now shoos down in the high teens to mid-upper 20's depending on the day.

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Fair enough, I have two hog hunter barrels that are 1.5 MOA with 175's for some reason, they are under MOA with the 150 grain Remington soft points from Wal-Mart.

I've found that the varmint barrels in 308 I've shot from the factory were able to be worked up to a decent size group with handloads and by head-spacing for the cartridge you intend to shoot. Now that may make them a little picky on other ammo, but it works for me to get the most from a factory setup. I just thought this was worth writing up for a budget build.

I'll shoot some more groups now that I've touched up the rear of the bedding job and see if that squeezes out the last bit of horizontal stringing and gets me to a repeatable .25 - .35 MOA, which is more than I'd ask for a tuned up - but off the shelf rifle.

Kool build. But don't expect to hold moa beyond 900 yards.

Rule of thumb is down to mach 1.2 (roughly 1,350 fps) is where accuracy is predictable. Some bullets do well after mach 1.2 and some don't.

I would like more information on the chassis, I have been thinking of building something using channel or angle iron. Guess I suck at bedding and pillar installation, seems like when I tighten the action screws I can feel the action torquing.

Bill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zero333

Kool build. But don't expect to hold moa beyond 900 yards.

Rule of thumb is down to mach 1.2 (roughly 1,350 fps) is where accuracy is predictable. Some bullets do well after mach 1.2 and some don't.

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It's still cheapish and fun to shoot in 308 and if I want to go to the edge I figure I'll have to get creative. What do you think?

The 168s are hornady and did great to 700, kind of interested how they stretch out.

The 175s I've gotten to shoot to 800, they did fine from a 26" barrel, running at 2700fps, I found an accuracy node at 2800 fps with my suppressor on the 26" barrel. In the 18.5 they run about 2650. I'm not sure how they hang in there as velocity drops.

I need to get out on a longer range, what do you think about projectiles like the warner tool flat lines to get more out of the 308?

My next stop is a 260 Rem, AI, or 6.5 Creedmore

I have other rifles as well for going longer, I just don't have access to longer ranges too much :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bsekf

I would like more information on the chassis, I have been thinking of building something using channel or angle iron. Guess I suck at bedding and pillar installation, seems like when I tighten the action screws I can feel the action torquing.

Bill

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are you trying to build a repeater or single shot? I can take measurements on whatever you'd like.

It would have to be a single shot. I was going to use a short (6 inch) piece of channel iron and bed it into the stock and bolt the action to it.... no torque that way, but it would be heavy. If I had a mill I would consider an aluminum barrel block and just let the action and barrel hang off it. So I am looking for pictures of the chassis bedding system.

Bill