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Thought I posted something on this complaint but can't find it so am posting another. Have had enough of the accutrigger on my 10T 308. I spend more time releasing the safety than shooting. My savage 338 accutrigger works great. zero issues. Same shooting style. Have adjusted to max heavy trigger pull. Still engages the safety allot. So, with that said, how hard is it to replace the trigger? Or can I disable the safety on the trigger?
Call Savage. They don't want bad triggers out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
Easy change to a Timney or Riflebasix.
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SavII or SSS is the only way to go if you ar looking for an improvement over factory.
And make sure there is no interference at the rear under the tang with the trigger.
Had my own issues there. Not a given by any stretch but one thing to check.
Intermittent and took a while to sleuth out.
If it works without the stock on its likely a stock interference.
RC20, not sure what your talking about. Can you elaborate? I have the rifle in a cadex chassis. Nothing is interfering with the trigger. How hard is it to change out the trigger?Will start looking at triggers.
Just looked at both SAVII and the SSS. I like the SSS. Will still email savage to see what they say but already know what they will say. Send it in.
The trigger you see on the SSS webpage is DIY. It requires a notch to be ground off/out of the hanger. There are instructions...you can do it. If they are out of stock(probably) the SavII is a great trigger as well.
Thanks for the info on the SSS. Just emailed them about availability. Also emailed Savage to see what they have to say. Might hear something in a couple months. By then it will be changed.
Call Savage and it happens faster...Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
I called about a broken Accutrigger. Sent it in on their dime with a UPS label they emailed. They replaced it and sent it back...
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Really don't feel like removing the cadex chassis and putting it in the accustock to send off. Plus 6 weeks (if that) before it comes back. Its over a year old so warranty is gone. Will see what they have to say when they respond. Will take off trigger area of the chassis and post some pics to see if you guys see something I don't. Have a egg shoot tomorrow so will be after that. Local range sets up an egg at 100 yards. You get 2 shots to shoot it for prizes.
Robinhood is correct if it is an old style, but if it is the newer style no grinding needed.
I did one on a 4.40 action and did not have to cut or grind anything.
Ask Lisa when you email she will tell you one way or another.
Thanks RJT, I have only used the older hangers and forgot that fact. ( I keep the takeoff accuttriggers assembled in a box.)
( I keep the takeoff accuttriggers assembled in a box.)[/QUOTE]
So do I, I've been asked to sell a couple but I guess when it comes to parts I'm a hoarder at heart.
Savage fixed my trigger, outside of the warranty...
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To be clear, its not a given. But the trigger can do odd things if its being interfered with by the stock or a chassis part.Quote:
RC20, not sure what your talking about. Can you elaborate? I have the rifle in a cadex chassis. Nothing is interfering with the trigger. How hard is it to change out the trigger?Will start looking at triggers.
I don't know the system you have, there may no way for it to happen and it might not be the issue.
Easy test is to pull the gun out of the stock and or chassis and see if it functions normally.
I can tell you the trigger mechanism touches nothing in the cadex chassis. Before going to the egg challenge today, decided to adjust the screw for trigger setting. Made sure it went all the way possible to heaviest setting. Tested it before going to range. Was able to creep it all the way without the safety engaging. To heavy for my taste but didn't want issues on the firing line. Worked. Hit egg on 1st shot with my pet load. No reply from SSS but will still consider replacing it for a lighter trigger pull. The 10T was purchased 2 years ago. Accustock and accutrigger. About 1000 rounds shot through it. Going to mess with it this week by adjusting in small steps and dry firing to see how far I can go before the safety trips on most pulls. Won't be much though as before. Set it until I can replace it. Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.
Don't go through all that, get the trigger where you like it and then put a drop of NAIL POLISH on the screw/spring then go shoot.
I have had more than one that the sear block use to slip on because trigger went out of adj. and after being told of the nail polish fix haven't had the problem since. I set my PTA at just a hair under 6 oz. and it is holding on.
You did this on a accutrigger? AFAIK, accutrigger lowest setting is 2 lbs or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtfroggy
The varmint trigger is 1.5 lbs. and the target trigger (PTA ) is around 6-8 oz. , it comes set at 8 oz..
Once you set it always put a drop of nail polish ( color optional) on it.
There is a few threads about this simple fix on here some where but they are probably posted long before you joined.
I also have one of SSS target trigger set between 2.5 - 3 oz. takes a lot of getting used to ( no safety what so ever, strictly a bench rest gun.
I've had some problems with the accuracy triggers too, AFTER I've replaced the spring with the lighter weight varmint spring. Usually a quick reset of the bolt and they're good to go.
I'd get a trigger from NSS or SSS and install myself. I've never understood people wanting to send rifles back to Savage for work they could do themselves or have a local smith do.
Putting the cadex chassis on the 10T lost the chassis safety. Trigger safety is all that's left. Not sure I want no safeties if I switch triggers. Will try the nail polish quick fix. If I can get it adjusted al least half way without tripping the safety all the time, I can live with that.
Clean the trigger. I was warned that the target trigger would eventually malfunction and trip if I didn't clean it. Sure enough 200 rounds with a couple pierced primers thrown in there and it started tripping every time i even touched the pretrigger. It didn't even look dirty, but a cleaning fixed the problem.
Thanks for the tip. Will give that a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by want2ride
I had this problem on a Savage FCP-SR that I got used. With a shell in chamber when I closed the bolt safety would set or try to set and lock up the trigger. A real pain in the butt. I removed action from the stock and found the previous owner had turn the adjusting screw in all the way and a bit. I backed it out about mid way and everything works as it should.
Like someone already mentioned... Take the action out of the chassis and dry fire, observing what's going on and what's tripping the safety sear. Savage triggers are simple by design.
So far the trigger set at max weight is not setting off the safety. Will play with the setting as was mentioned here and see if I can at least get to half way. If that doesn't work, then will do as mentioned and take it apart so I can see what's tripping the safety when dry firing. thanks for your help. Nice to come here and get good advice!
Well that went well, not. Had to remove part of the cadex chassis but was only able to set it a little softer. Not much. When I feel like taking it out of the chassis as time permits, will do a thorough check of the trigger. For now I'll live with it. Will still keep an eye on the trigger replacement for a replacement at some point. Thanks again guys.