My New Axis stock bedding question

A stainless Axis .270. First trip to the range, it acted like it wants to shoot, but the trigger was terrible- over 6 lb. Shot a 1.25" 3-shot group even with the awful trigger.

So, I replaced the trigger spring giving me a 3.5 lb pull. Shot it again, and got a 3-shot group under 1".

Still, one problem- as I apply pressure to the trigger, the point of aim drops down on the target. The rear of the action rises up in the stock from the trigger pressure. If I hold down the rear of the tang with my thumb, it does not do this. Yes, the action screws are tight. So the barreled action "rocks" forward in the stock from trigger pressure.

The problems I see are-
1. The rear action screw is not back far enough to hold the tang down. Most centerfire rifle have an action screw at the tang area. I don't see an easy way to fix this.
2. On the other end, the barreled action does not contact the stock forward of the barrel nut. A possible fix might be to glass-bed the rear 3 or 4 inches of the barrel.

Another option would be a shim to have the forend tip put upward pressure on the barrel. I tried this at the range, and it seemed to help, but I'm not sure how this would work long term given the stock is not super rigid.

Anybody else see this? Somebody have a nice fix? I'm not looking to replace the stock.

I've been down this road myself.... The axis is a budget rifle... PERIOD! the stocks are junk and the recoil lug system "leaves a lot to be desired"... The rear tang is supposed to be floated they say. My axis (22-250) originally came with the Accustock even. I tried to modify the stock a little and even added weight to the hollow butt stock to get it to shoot a bit better. Ordered a Criterion aftermarket match grade barrel even and still couldn't get it to shoot as tight as I wanted.

Long story short, save yourself the tinkering and the time and just order a laminate or better stock for it. Pillar and glass bed it (Laminate) and be done with it. I've learned all this over the last 2 years of trying to do what you are trying to do.

Since the original stock would be thrown away if replaced, I might as well tinker with it before I replace it.

Been down same road. Sagerat is right save yourself the headache

Quote:

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Originally Posted by richdeerht

Since the original stock would be thrown away if replaced, I might as well tinker with it before I replace it.

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to each their own... :)

When you've tried it and found you want it better, then please return to this thread and update. Maybe it will help the next guy who had the same thoughts...

I added this stock from Boyd's and my groups were reduced in size by 50%https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9b3b8ed0e1.jpg


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For a factory axis stock, the thing to do is glass bed it, rockite in the foreend so it doesn't flex, making sure to free float the barrel, and epoxy the trigger guard so the wrist doesn't Flex.

If that is not enough, then a Boyd's laminate that you pillar and glass bed.

Was thinking about what would make the stock flex when you were applying pressure to the trigger, made me think about the trigger guard and the wimpy wrist area. I would start with epoxy in the trigger guard.

InAZ- the trigger guard area looks like a good place to start.

I always wonder about bedding and Rockiting, the between the time to do it and the cost of materials if it is really worth it when you can get a laminate stock that is ready to go for $144?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by andyknaster

I always wonder about bedding and Rockiting, the between the time to do it and the cost of materials if it is really worth it when you can get a laminate stock that is ready to go for $144?


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If you will eventually replace it:

Not. Really. Worth. It.

Exception is you want to play with the bedding processes, etc. Have more time than money. Or, have another good reason.

I am doing it only to cut down the stock for a kid to shoot and don't need/want them shooting an expensive stock. It is a project for both of us, so lots of intangibles.

Where to start....

First, I can't say I've ever seen a Savage Axis with a rear tang before. Every one I've ever seen has the safety/trigger group as a sub-assembly mounted via a pivot pin like the one pictured below. If yours is different please post a pic.

Attachment 2845

Second, the placement of the rear action screw is not an issue and hasn't been for the hundreds of thousands of Savage 110's and Axis rifles made over the last 60 years. I would actually argue Savage's placement is better as it offers more bedding surface area at the screw location than if it were located on the rear tang like others, but that's another debate for another time. The Axis' design makes bedding a little more difficult, but it's doable.

Third, I would be willing to be the shift in POA you are seeing is due to the flex in the wrist of the stock rather than a bedding issue. It's a known weak point in the stock and myself and others have proven multiple times over the years that even slight variations in grip pressure can affect POA and POI.

As others have noted above, trying to "fix" the factory stock is all but a waste of time. The inherent flex in the stock makes bedding it a fruitless effort. Filling in the forearm with aluminum rods and bedding compound to try and stiffen it offers little gain as the rod would have to pass through the recoil lug pocket to actually stiffen it as that's the weakest flex point. Even after doing that there's still the huge amount of flex in the wrist area that there's no way to eliminate. So yeah, it's purely a lost cause. It's plenty suitable for a basic deer rifle, but like most turds no matter how much you try to polish it up it's still going to be nothing more than a turd.

So, unless you reconsider the option of replacing the stock you've pretty much tied your own hands here.

I had to learn it the expensive, and long way (story of my life). I originally bot the 22-250 in the axis because I was wanting to spend a bit more time with my aging father. He's a gun guy and has been my entire life, I hunted deer when I was 12-14 but lost interest shortly there after (sports, girls, and sleep). Didn't get back into it until I had an opportunity to go do some prairie dogging (Sage Rat)... I just wanted something that would work or get the job done. The axis worked pretty good for me out to 250 yards or so, but after I had been there and done it, I got hooked!!!! I upgraded the glass first, and then did some weighting of the Accustock it came with, still didn't get me to where I wanted it to be (500 yard accuracy). So, I ordered the Criterion and spun it on. Because the profile was larger, I had to open the barrel channel a bit, and had to take out the aluminum bar that stiffens up the forend. No joy, my POI was all over the place after that due to the forend pressure from the bags I shoot off. So, finally I ordered a Prairie hunter Laminate from Boyds (it was the only option I had for a lefty axis, I would have preferred the Pro Varmint). Everything dropped in pretty much with the exception of the barrel channel. It's now been on the rifle for 6 months or so, and has finally broken in. What I found next is that once that happens the action starts to get sloppy in the stock (laterally). I just finished pillar and glass bedding it and got back out to the range this last weekend. I think I've finally got it right as it will put 5 in a nickel @ 100 yards now....
So, knowing what I know now.... I paid $300 for the rifle originally. By the time I was done... $1000.00!!! MORAL OF THE STORY "You can turn a rice rocket into a fast machine, but it isn't ever going to be a Ferrari"!!

The one thing that I can say about the experience is: I learned how to work on my Rifles....

You now have some of the very best advice regarding the Axis stock.

Figure out what you want and go for it.

Rockite and trigger is the key in my opinion. I have a hb acis that does 1/3 moa. Not bedded. Rockite in forearm and wrist

Fill the remainder of the buttstock with styrofoam packing peanuts to reduce the plastic sound too. Axis' will shoot with minor modifications. No need to spend $$

I bought this rifle to be a low-priced stainless back-up rifle. Since I lowered the trigger pull weight, I shot a 5/8" 3-shot group at 100 yards, but I have to put thumb pressure on the safety to keep the point of aim from shifting downward about an inch (at 100 yards) from trigger pressure. A 5/8" group from a .270 is not terrible. I'd prefer not to have to use the thumb pressure trick. For deer hunting at woods ranges, this may not matter much.

So my first try will be be a shim at the forearm tip. If it stops the point-of-aim movement and still groups, why not? If it does not work, I'll consider some other suggestions I've received.

I think the stock is too wiggly for forearm pressure.

I would get the issue worked out in the action bedding. Whatever the problem is, I would go at the source of the issue. Maybe shim the back of the action up so there is no play?