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Time to learn to replace my first barrel. Looking at northland shooting supply to get what I need. But need help selecting the correct tools to get the job done right. Can someone tell me exactly what I need? The barrel on my Savage 10T is what I will be replacing. Want a barrel that is not as heavy as a bull barrel but not thin enough that it heats up to quick. Recommendations? Has to be 5R, 22 inches. Appreciate your help guys.
Action wrench or barrel vise (I'll let others debate which is better)
Go gauge
Nogo gauge (optional but a god idea for first effort)
Slotted barrel nut (to replace the smooth one)
Anti seize for threads (type depends on barrel material)
Rsearch process (lots of info on this site)
As far as barrel there are several quality manufactures that will build you a barrel. Price and lead time will vary and rumor has it, they all are slow (at least by my standards).
olddave has it covered: I will give the facts mixed in with my opinion.
So, my view are latter but what you are looking at is a smooth nut removal to start with.
Two ways to do it.
1. A pipe wrench (at least 12 inch) and maybe heat. Some of those nuts come off nicely (two of mine did) some are hard (one of mine though it was segmented and I just got more leverage till it let go).
This is my preferred method. If you have the pipe wrench and need heat then to a welding store and get a temple stick that melts at 350 degrees. You heat, check, heat check until it melts (you can then heat one more time and overshoot a bit) and then it should come off.
2. Cutting it off, you need to be very good and or experienced. I have done a lot of that cutting for other reasons and I could do it and I have the tools. Nicking threads does not destroy the barrel coming off but you will have burrs to clean up and it looks bad.
I went with the NSS action vice and its worked completely to how I thought it would and that is rare in a tool.
I would get their long nut wrench. You may want the leverage down the road. Otherwise their short one with the normal nut cutout works, you might need a breaker bar if you do segmented nuts down the road.
You might was well get the nut there, a lug if you want (I think that's optional) as well as the gauge.
I got both the go and not go space gauges though I have been working with this in other aspects for a long time (and have used tape to make a file reject out of the no go gauge)
Partly at some point I want to know what reject is looking like in 308. I have that for the 30-06 from my mil surplus (actually my brother had a spare set for some reason and gave those to me, very nice of him)
The way I assess this is I have been working mechanic and technician for 30+ years. When I was younger I did not mind doing it at home, working on cars etc but I no longer have any desire to. In short I hate having to do technical learning wise as I get my fill of that all day, not come home on the weekend and do more of it.
The barrel work and the setup I went with seemed to offer a straight forward method and no huge learning curve (granted I have been working with other aspects of this).
My choice was to go with the action wrench, NSS looked to have the best one. I watched a number of U tubes and it by far seemed the best approach (what resonated with me)
Add in they go to my heart and they give torque values for the nuts and hex screw attaching the wrench and torque value for the Savage nut.
Not a have to, but I like it, I do have the torque wrench(es) so not something I had to buy.
Jim is great to deal with. He reps both Shilen and Criterions (both very good button rifled products ). The pre fits are quicker to get though they come in standard Savage profiles only. They will do non Savage pre fit but its an order and a longer wait. MY 30-06 Bull as not one that they make (offered yes) so there were none out there. I think it good 3-4 months.
What you have is a Varmint contour (per Savage definition ). You can use that to determine what you want more or less but its a pretty good all around profile in my opinion.
There is a heavy hunter profile, I don't know what guns that comes on, Savage site is bad for those details.
Special order there are a lot of profiles in between.
Thanks guys. Am mechanically inclined so shouldn't have any issues. My fear is taking off the barrel and screwing up the action. Have no problem spending the money for the right tools. Already emailed northland shooting supply for info also. Already got some good info from them also. Have to figure the barrel I want. Told them I wanted a 5R 22 inch barrel but less weight than a bull barrel. They said varmint was next down. Criterion 4 groove they said was similar to a 5R. Once I figure out for sure which barrel, will place my order. Thanks again guys.
Once you have your barrel off, take a look inside the front of the action where the bolt lugs seat. Look at the wear pattern and note whether the bolt lugs are making full contact. If not, use some fine valve lapping compound and lap the bolt lugs to the action. Doesn't take long to do. Also look at the front face of the action where the recoil lug bears, and check for shiny spots indicating uneven wear. Doesn't cost much to have it trued up, and if you're also getting the precision ground barrel nut and recoil lug from Northland, it would make sense to have a nice flat surface to bear against. If you buy them with the barrel, it's cheaper.
I used Northland's action wrench and short barrel nut wrench along with a 2 foot breaker bar, and 3/4 inch drive torque wrench to set barrel nut torque.
If it's your first time, I'd advise getting the go/no-go gage set just so you understand what it is your trying to do in setting headspace.
Have fun, but realize you're about to fall headfirst down the rabbit hole. Once you've done your first, you're smitten.
Once the barrel is off, is it better to send it off to have the action trued then or send it in with the barrel?
I think if you want the real answer you should call Fred at SSS and ask himQuote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
He probably times and trues more savage actions than anyone in the country. Don't believe he laps the lugs.
A couple or 3 of small things to consider.
Take out the front base screw.
If you are going to use a pipe wrench make sure that you are not turning the recoil lug. A action wrench is good hear due to the fact you pipe wrench will be squeezing on the barrel so they will need to turn together. I have been know to use the action wrench barrel vice and the nut wrench to do the job. Do not use the Ejection/Loading port for leverage.
If you have a high quality hone that is still flat, do the figure eight on the nut and the face of the action. Use the fine side of the hone.
Replace the recoil lug with a flat one. (Ground)
Varmint barrel of your liking and call Fred.The bolt work alone is worth the money.