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My axis is my first bolt-action, so forgive me if this is otherwise obvious. I was working on the trigger earlier and it felt great out of the stock, but then I put it back together and there was an extra bit of movement intro
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(sorry, my baby hit send)
Anyway, a bit of movement was introduced. I took it back apart and realized it was because the action itself actually pivots slightly on a pin. Can someone explain to me why it's designed this way? Also I imagine I wouldn't want to shim it to take the movement out, but anything I can do to make it smoother? I'd like to feel nothing until the sear goes.
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What you be talking about Wilbur?
Alright I took a couple videos to clarify what I was trying to get at. Although now that I had it out again, I'm thinking the takeup might be due to something else since the action pivots the other way. My original question still stands, though, as to why it's designed to move at all.
Here's the action pivoting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lELyjUbLWCM
Here's the trigger break with the stock removed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuBB5_qoQ5g
And here it is with the stock installed, with newly-inroduced takeup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DthKlVCniY
I'm interested to see if anyone can answer this. I have puzzled over why the pivot design and why it is under spring tension from that little coiled spring. Seems to me the little spring will always be completely compressed when the rear mounting stud is tightened.
My guess is that it has to do with the Axis' shorter receiver and where the rear action screw threads into it. The way it's designed saves on machining.
The action doesn't pivot. The trigger group does. What you refer to as the chamber in the first video is the action. The chamber is in the barrel.
As long as you tighten the your action screws down, that spring will compress and there will be no movement.
Why it was designed that way, I have no idea. As DrThunder said, I'm sure it has to do with cost of machining.
The spring is there for one simple reason, and it's not about function or accuracy. You can leave the spring out if you so wish.
Did you cut a relief in the stock so that the new screw head on the trigger spring doesn't contact the stock?
I did not, the original article I read didn't mention anything about needing additional clearance. I'll check that out though, and cut one if there's an issue.
Also thank you upslidedown for the insight and the clarification on what parts are what.
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Not having clearance for the screw head explains all of your problems.
yep, If you sent me the dimensions you would need for a long set screw rather than a Allen head cap screw I might be able to help you out.
This is why I love this Forum. I've done 3 Axis trigger mods and blindly used the cap head screw and cut a relief in the stock. The local Fastenal has set screws in stock cheaper than the Cap screws I've been buying. Of course I'll have to buy a 100 of them. It looks like a 10-24x1/2" will work perfectly. I'll list some of the extras in classifieds if anyone is interested.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I appreciate the offer, but I had no reservations about removing a little material. It was actually the trigger guard that needed clearancing, by just a hair. Put it back together and it functions flawlessly. Thanks so much for the advice ninner.
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@djzero, few stuff I learned/picked up here as a Newbie Axis XP user:
- If you want to lighten the trigger pull more in addition to the spring mod, do the "shimming" that DrThunder88 did or just grind a bit of the metal from sear/trigger engagement surface ( aka "redneck fix"). Remove a bit, polish, and test the trigger pull - repeat.
- If you get light primer strikes, try loosening the over travel screw. I had it too tight to reduce the over travel but caused light primer strikes.
- If the spent brass no longer ejects but drops inside the receiver (will happen!) , replace the BB under the extractor with a larger 9/64 inch BB (I bought 25 from Amazon for $5). The HOWTO is in this forum.
- If you bought an Axis XP, put blue loctite on ALL the screws on the scope mount and rings. Initially the rings were loose, but I also found that factory front and rear mounts were a bit loose too, when I was replacing it with a new mount and rings.
Enjoy your new rifle!
Thanks! But despite not knowing what parts are called I've actually had the axis for a while, just that I'm only now getting into improving it. I'm actually really pleased with the spring and screw by itself (and no light primer strikes or FTEs), will probably leave the rest of the internals alone for now. The next step in the upgrade path is a wooden stock, then better optics, and along the way start loading my own ammo.
As is now that I've done the trigger, here are my groupings with the original tupperwear stock, cheapie simmons 8-point, and PMC bronze:
@50yds
http://i.imgur.com/vVeEudFl.jpg
@200yds (lower middle only)
http://i.imgur.com/BKXFJmSl.jpg