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I have a 1899h 303 savage, with a 25-35 switch barrel. I know the barrel has being with the gun since the 1930's when my great grandfather got the rifle, before then, not sure. My question, is this a factory pairing? It came up that the rotary magazine may not feed the 25-35 cartridge.... Any help would be great! thanks. Rifle has a 20 inch barrel, made in 1912.
It could be, I've heard of them before.
Is the serial number stamped on the bottom of the 25-35 barrel?
Would be a good gun to get lettered by Savage Arms, that would be a definite.
Manufactured By Savage Arms Company UTICA, N.Y USA
PAT- FEB,7,1893,JULY 25,1893,OCT 3,1899,MAY 25,1909, JUNE 1,1909
Then at rear of barrel 25-35.
No serial number of gun on the 25-35 barrel.
So to get it lettered from Savage Arms.....Send them the serial number of rifle, what else is need for that? Is there a fee? whatever it might be ....doesn't matter, well worth it!
I take it this is new spot to send it....
Savage Arm Historical Information.
100 Springdale Rd, Westfield,MA.01085
Thanks for the reply!
I see you figured out the ser#, 1912 sounds about right. Anyhow, the only switch barrel 99's I'm aware of was a .300 Savage/ .410 shotgun combo. With the .410 barrel in place, it could only be used as a single shot. The take down barrels were all hand fitted, and they have an interrupted thread, so a half turn would unscrew it. Later models went to a full thread. Take down was a relative term, since they aren't that easy to unscrew, and the threads would wear out through repeated use. That's why a lot of them have split stocks, they clamped the sock instead of the receiver and turning the barrel stressed the thin tang area. I have three take downs and they are all split, but that adds the character I like in an old rifle. If you try to remove the barrel, soak the threads in Kroil or some other penetrating oil, and clamp the receiver in a padded vise. Then a good strap wrench to grip the barrel.
I've also found that these old timers feed and shoot better with the heavier round nose bullets. 180's in the .303 and 117's in the .25-35.
Ok, thanks Big Al, was kinda wondering how to get that off without damaging things. I sent an email to savage to try shed more light on this second barrel question, cant hurt.... I found some 303 ammo...on its way, now the 25-35 might be a different deal, hard to find where im from. Thanks again!
.25-35 is easy to make, just necked down .30-30. I have a Lyman tang sight on mine, it shoots holes touching groups at 50 yards, not bad for a 110 years old!!
Sounds like a good excuse for a new hobby for myself..... always wanted to get into reloading. I may have some ? for you in the future.
That's about the only way you can shoot these old timers, you have to reload.Quote:
Originally Posted by prennoke
Not sure how long it will take for a latter from Savage Arms, they just moved all the data over to them from the historian, might be a bit.
As for only 410 barrels on switch barrels, no, I know a guy in Maine that has a 30-30 25-35 set that lettered from the historian leaving the plant with the two barrels but both barrels were serial numbered to the gun, hence the question was the 25-35 serial numbered.
25-35 should be easier to find than 303 Sav, no?
Make sure you have the lever open when you take down the barrel. If it doesn't want to move take it to a smith to free it, alot of guys wreck forearms trying to pry them off a receiver they've been on for 100 years.
Other than the period correct savage/patent stamping's ,along with .cal , there is an 0 or o stamped above the "OFF" marking, that's it. Neither barrel has a serial number on them. When you say serial number are you referring to the same one on belly of receiver, should be on barrel too?
Canada Ammo had the 303 SAV, but nobody seems to have the 25-35. That being said the 303 was $62 a box!
I sent an email to savage with all the details to there historical records department.....see what happens.
Is there a trick for posting pics on this forum.....
Graf & Sons has better prices. http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...ds=.303+savage
I can see how a .30-30 and .25-35 can be a switch barrel, same case. The .303 case is larger, both case and rim diameter by .020.
OK! I did a little experiment! I got out my .303 and braved the cold weather, (it's 50 here) and fed some .25-35 ammo through it. It fed nicely and extracted and ejected, so the difference in rim diameter makes no difference, as far as I can tell. So, if the .25-35 barrel fits and headspaces properly, sounds like you have a switch barrel 1899! I would have a gunsmith check the headspace, just to make sure. Uses same gauge as .30-30.
Graf also has some .25-35 ammo. http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...eywords=.25-35
Sometimes it will have the whole number stamped but most of the time if it is matched to the gun it will have the last three digits of the receivers serial number. Not saying it's not a matched set, just that they're usually marked, now a letter from Savage will be the deciding factor.
Don't think Grafs will ship to us boys in Canada. Gunshows might be a shot at some 25-35 or if your a member at CGN try posting in the classifieds there for some.
Didn't think about that whole border thingy, that kinda' complicates things!! Maybe there will be changes with our new administration! It's not like ya live in Commiefornia!
Yeah the cross border thing wont work...Cant wait for the gunshow's, usually March , April around here.
Thanks for the test feed on the ammo..... can't wait to here from savage....whenever that might be....keep ya's posted.
Thanks for all your input!
Ended up being an 1899h featherweight takedown, with a 303 and a 25-35 barrel. The forestock is unfortunately not original..... Seems to be off a non-takedown. Square nut welded on the 303 barrel, to hold forestock on. 25-35 barrel is thankfully untouched and great condition.
Would love to find a correct forestock for it, any hrlp would be appreciated!
Sometimes you can take an appropriately shaped drift and tap it in that index slot on the bottom of the barrel and it pops it loose. I don't horse em or anything but they are after all made of steel, so you can tap them pretty good.