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I don't swag primer pockets but if I did I'd use a bench or press mount tool...neck trimming...get you a tool with a 3way cutter head and a drill adapter...I use the Forster original with the 3way head and drill driver...I think LW uses a rcbs 3way with a drill.
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You can use a piece of a rubber jar opener so you don't have to grip so tight.
I use Lee's trimmer with a cordless drill, no stress on the fingers and no changing lengths.
As for the primer pockets, a quick twist with the Lee chamfer/deburing tool takes care of that.
I've got a FA prep center with the trim function that uses collets and then adjust the length by adjusting the trim bit. Works pretty good for 223 & 204. I prepped about 200 223 cases in one afternoon, and did about 400 of the 204 over a couple days time (couple hrs here and there). I did not have any real issues with hands hurting, hard to hold the case on the trimmer, shavings gumming up the trimmer head, etc., but I did take breaks so my hands would not hurt. I did not clean any of the shavings off/out of the prep center until I was done with all the cases.
The FA has 3 other positions for chamfering and pocket cleaning.
I've read that the Hornady primer pocket crimp tool/head will fit one of the 3 spots on the FA prep center, so I'm going to order one and see what all the hub bub is about with this. From what I've read about PP crimp removal, it takes very little trimming to get it done by hand, but if you've got 100's of cases to do, the power option sounds like a good deal IMO. I don't have but 50 or so do remove the PP crimp on, but if the Hornady tool fits my prep center, for $10 or so, seems like a easy solution to a boring task that needs to be done at times.
I also use the LEE trimmer. Trimming to the shoulder makes no sense to Me.
Lee system works great. Deburr the flash hole and you get the same length every time give or take .0005.
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Sounds exactly like a Lee FCD.
They don't make ball ammo with precision in mind, they make it with reliability in mind; don't confuse the two.
YMMV, and the state of your brass plays a big role in this.
Years back I did a mountain of chrono work, and some Pressure Trace follow up. For my components at the time:
Purely from a consistency standpoint, a light factory crimp (Lee) will tighten the ES some. I also found that paying more attention to load details did about the same thing. The only time a crimp helped me statistically, was with brass that needed annealed badly.
As far as accuracy, I never saw a difference. The ES change was so minor as to become background noise at distance. Typically my jump to lands is very small on my match ammo anyway, so not really needed. When shooting my Creed with 90gr TNT's I have the bullet just in the case, which leaves me with something like 7 or 8 feet of jump to lands. I crimp them, to keep them in the case.
Buy a pair of automotive thin rubber gloves when doing any hand held operation with your cases. And remember this sore finger eliminator below.Quote:
Originally Posted by XL105
.223/5.56 - Cleaned, Deprimed & Swaged - LC Only - 500 Pieces $55.00 free shipping
http://www.brassbombers.com/223-556-...-2LC-S0050.htm
So why go to the range with fingers so sore you can't even pick your own nose or pull the trigger without your index finger starting to bleed. (again)
(very sore buggered up finger humor)
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I'm using the wft - same as you. I found the tired fingers thing got much better with a faster rpm on the drill. I was trimming with my drill on low speed, and noticed my fingers getting tires/changing hands. I switched to the fast speed on my drill (which may be faster than the instructions suggest) and it was much easier on my fingers. I also felt the cut was a bit smoother than the low speed effort.
I'm thrilled with the wft. 150 rounds of range brass - all within .003 - would be tighter yet if all fired from the same gun. Took me an hour to trim 150 cases including setup time, and another hour to chamfer and debur inside and out. I wasn't trying to find out how fast I could go - and took some break time in the 2 hours too. But a lazy paced trim and neck chamfer of 150 cases in 2 hours is many times faster than my lathe based hand trimmer.
I've never used the Lee tool - but will probably try that out next time I load straight wall cases.
I had rather just buy bulk .223 ammo, shoot it and leave the brass for you guys.
Just not worth it to reload bulk ammo in .223
Why, thank you very much...Quote:
Originally Posted by m12lrs
It is for me with a Dillon 650 & RT1200 :p
And to the OP, there's a guy on Ebay that sells a swager for the 650... set up the machine with the swager & trimmer tool head, crank out a few thousand, then switch the swager for the primer punch, insert loading tool head and go...
I had the WFT, ok for small hunting batches, moved to the Gerard Tri Trimmer, its same as WFT on trim, but also chamfers and deburrs
I was doing it in both hands with a cordless and then figured out I could put the 1/2 inch drill in the vice and turn it into a poor mans fixed motorize trimmer using the fixed on speed.
Much better. Old hands and some artistic and I am only doing 308 and 06. I am not going to do anything smaller!
As fro the crimps, I don't do it a lot but I used the RCBS chamber tool on the prep station.
Grind them off. Works ok.
Forester sizing die does not like them with tis free floating pin, break it off. ugh.
So a remnant is left, does not bother RCBS.