New man here. I'm certain this not a new item.
Would like to get some info on what is available and where.
Thanks.
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New man here. I'm certain this not a new item.
Would like to get some info on what is available and where.
Thanks.
Thanks a bunch 44
Thread your own handle! Then you can use any threaded knob you like, even a homemade one!
I've heard of people using JB weld putty or Quik Steel on there bolt handle to build it up. You put it on in roughly the shape you want and once it dries you sand it to size and paint it.
I thought about doing something like that but with polymer clay so if I don't like it I can cut it off.
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Does Savage or anyone else make a slightly larger knob handle like the ones that come on the hog hunter and some other 10/11 models that will fit the Axis. I want to upgrade the handle, but don't want the longer 3-4" tactical looking ones.
Just tried my hand at making a bolt extension/knob for my Axis and it turned out not to bad. Thanks to the person who had posted his project a while back.
Used: a 1/2" drive 7/8" socket as the mold (six sided and 3" long)
1/2 tube of JB Weld and 1/2 tube of Hardener (2 part epoxy). I used the slow-set one as Quick weld sets pretty fast
Shoe Polish for the release agent (used black but clear might be a better idea).
Rubber gloves
A stick for getting the weld mix into the socket
80 Emery for initial sanding once out of mold
Packed a piece of plastic bag tightly from the drive end of the socket up to "the hole" and taped it shut. (The weld mix did not stick to the plastic). Using a rubber glove, I rubbed shoe polish around the barrel of the socket and down to the "hole". My first time at doing this so was sure hoping this was going to release as it should.
Did lots of thinking and practicing of just how the bolt knob was going to fit/sit and what angle to try to set it at in the socket. Couldn't have it hit the scope and it also had to be such that the bolt shaft would not hit the frame when the bolt is closed. Got some books stacked to place the bolt on at the height I wanted the bolt knob to be in the socket while the socket remained on the table. Some how this has to get done as the weld mix takes 4-6 hours to set and another 8-10 hours to cure. I wanted extra length on the bolt handle so the knob couldn't just rest on the bottom of the socket.
Mixed up about 1/4 tube each of weld as I had no idea of how much it was going to need. Not enough, so mixed up the next quarter tubes and put the mix in the socket. It seemed "about right" so went with it and had another package of weld at hand, just in case. Lowered the bolt in to what I thought was a good spot (level of weld about 1/4" below the last of two factory inlets on the bolt shaft.
Then got the angle that seemed right and just held the bolt down on the books - shaft hanging over the edge and in the socket. With one hand holding the bolt down, kept making tiny adjustments to the socket with the other hand to keep the bolt knob where I wanted it. This went on for pretty much 1.5 hours because this mix takes a longggg time to set. There must be at better way!! After about two hours, it seemed set enough that I could leave it and not have the bolt knob move. Checked on it a couple times and then left it overnight.
In the morning, I tapped the socket a bit with a hammer and it moved so I started pulling the socket from the bolt. To my surprise, and immense relief, the socket just pulled right off with not to much effort. The rest was just time - ground down with 80 emery to get ride of the black shoe polish. The weld hardens in a grey color so is a good match for the stainless barrel/bolt. Final sanding and perhaps painting yet to come.
The end product was a bolt knob about 1 1/4" inches long - first half plus a bit was six sided followed by a round section and then a small button on the bottom (the contours of the socket). Some where inside is the original bolt knob and hopefully the new knob will be strong enough.
I am trying to grind and thread following Thunder's video. I must say, the bolt handle steel is actually much tougher than I expected. But after a combination of Dremel, bench grinder and hacksaw I got it shaved down. But for the life of me I can't get my die to bite in and start threading. It acts like it wants to start and then ppbbbtttt. Oh well, If I can't get it before my knobs show up I will just grind it down more and JB Weld them on.
has anyone used the glades bolt handle? does it help with the scope clearance issue?
I tried this last week and hit a void 1/2" down while threading and broke it off. Ended up JB-Welding it on. Looks good but time will tell if it holds up.Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech
I finally got my 3 bolt handles threaded by putting a serious taper on the filed down bolt so my die would start cutting. All of them had voids...but only my stainless bolt decided to break off at the void. I notched and grooved the remaining nub and glued it on as well. It feels pretty solid for now. But I did find OEM handles on the web for $12 so it won't be that much to make another.Quote:
Originally Posted by ninner
I've dreamed up an Idea if building a bolt handle turning tool from a piece of pipe a pipe cap and some clamps if it works I'll share if not I'll never mention it again. Basically I'll take a 6" piece of heavy wall pipe, schedule 180 or so with a big enough ID for the base of the bolt handle. Behind the threaded portion of the pipe I'll mill away enough pipe to be held securely with the clamp. I'll drill a hole in the center of pipe cap to center the bolt handle. and an intercepting offset hole big enough to get the handle head through before threading the cap onto the pipe to chuck it up in the lathe. If I drill a pilot in the handle and steady it with the live center it should be stable enough to make the cut. It wont cure the void issue but hopefully a nice round slightly undersized handle will take the die without breaking.