I've learned a lot.

Over the last two years while trying to get my Model 10 .223 to shoot straight I've learned a lot. Much of it was while reloading to try to find that magic combination of bullet, powder, seating depth, primer, et. al. to produce accurate results. I finally had to give up on the factory barrel and replace it with a custom one. Longer, heavier with a faster twist rate. The factory sporter barrel was 22 inches with a 9 twist. My new barrel is a 26 inch varmint barrel with an 8 twist. That tube is deadly accurate over a broad range of bullet weights.

Brass prep is critical. I bought a Redding case trimmer along with reamer and chamfering tool. I also now use a flash hole uniforming tool on every case. When I reload I take great care in each step in case prep. I full length resize with a Redding bushing die set to bump the shoulder 3 thousands of an inch. Primer pockets are always cleaned out before I seat a new primer to ensure uniform seating depth.

At one point I purchased a digital scale to weigh out my powder charges. I use a Dillon press with a powder measure but have found that charges can vary by quite a bit between each load. The digital scale did not live up to my expectations because there is too much slop when dribbling powder into the pan. I found that the old balance beam that I've had for 45 years gives me the most control of charge accuracy. Now, it is sitting on a shelf at eye level and I weigh EVERY charge and trickle powder to get every single charge exactly like the rest.

I bought a Redding bullet seating die with the micrometer adjustment. I've measured the distance to the lands of the bullets that I use. (75 gr A-Max) I verify the offset from the lands with a Hornady measuring tool so that I know I'm getting consistency.

I learned that it is not always the best decision to try to go for max speed with the heaviest loads. Slow down the bullet a bit and go for accuracy.

My next steps will be to weigh my prepared cases as well as the bullets to get everything to match as closely as possible. Beyond that I may have to buy the tools to turn the necks down. For now I've got what I was looking for. My Model 10 is deadly accurate.

It makes bugholes at 100 yards with 55 gr soft points and it consistently hits milk jugs at 840 yards with 75 gr A-Max. It never misses on rock chucks out to 300 yards. This has been quite a journey and it is now getting fun and exciting.

My thanks to those of you who have answered my newbe questions and given advice. Details matter. I'm not an expert by any measure, but I'm a fairly good study and still learning.

Awesome

Quote:

---

I learned that it is not always the best decision to try to go for max speed with the heaviest loads. Slow down the bullet a bit and go for accuracy.

---

I agree with all of your statement, especially the one above.

Dennis

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Idaho

Over the last two years while trying to get my Model 10 .223 to shoot straight I've learned a lot. Much of it was while reloading to try to find that magic combination of bullet, powder, seating depth, primer, et. al. to produce accurate results. I finally had to give up on the factory barrel and replace it with a custom one. Longer, heavier with a faster twist rate. The factory sporter barrel was 22 inches with a 9 twist. My new barrel is a 26 inch varmint barrel with an 8 twist. That tube is deadly accurate over a broad range of bullet weights.

Brass prep is critical. I bought a Redding case trimmer along with reamer and chamfering tool. I also now use a flash hole uniforming tool on every case. When I reload I take great care in each step in case prep. I full length resize with a Redding bushing die set to bump the shoulder 3 thousands of an inch. Primer pockets are always cleaned out before I seat a new primer to ensure uniform seating depth.

At one point I purchased a digital scale to weigh out my powder charges. I use a Dillon press with a powder measure but have found that charges can vary by quite a bit between each load. The digital scale did not live up to my expectations because there is too much slop when dribbling powder into the pan. I found that the old balance beam that I've had for 45 years gives me the most control of charge accuracy. Now, it is sitting on a shelf at eye level and I weigh EVERY charge and trickle powder to get every single charge exactly like the rest.

I bought a Redding bullet seating die with the micrometer adjustment. I've measured the distance to the lands of the bullets that I use. (75 gr A-Max) I verify the offset from the lands with a Hornady measuring tool so that I know I'm getting consistency.

I learned that it is not always the best decision to try to go for max speed with the heaviest loads. Slow down the bullet a bit and go for accuracy.

My next steps will be to weigh my prepared cases as well as the bullets to get everything to match as closely as possible. Beyond that I may have to buy the tools to turn the necks down. For now I've got what I was looking for. My Model 10 is deadly accurate.

It makes bugholes at 100 yards with 55 gr soft points and it consistently hits milk jugs at 840 yards with 75 gr A-Max. It never misses on rock chucks out to 300 yards. This has been quite a journey and it is now getting fun and exciting.

My thanks to those of you who have answered my newbe questions and given advice. Details matter. I'm not an expert by any measure, but I'm a fairly good study and still learning.

---

I want to buy a .223 rifle soon. Was looking at getting the 11 Trophy Predator Hunter but I may back off of that and look elsewhere.

What kind of groups did you accomplish with the factory barrel?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The best groups out of the factory barrel were around an inch at 100 yards. Only thing was that a different bullet weight or even type of bullet of the same weight might not even be on the paper at 100 yards! I sighted in with 55gr FMJ and went coyote hunting with 55gr ballistic tips and missed two easy shots. When I took the ballistic tips to the range they were 1 1/2 inch high and 7 inches left of the point of impact of the FMJs!! My new McGowan varmint barrel does not have that problem. Lighter bullets hit higher but in the same vertical zero. When I replaced the barrel I also bought a heavy duty barrel lug and quality barrel nut. The 'new' action (heavier barrel lug) was bedded in the stock and the stock channel was widened to make sure the barrel floated. I had previously floated the tang and I replaced the stock Accu-trigger spring with a Savage target spring.

I doubt if my experience with the factory barrel is shared by many others and I would feel more comfortable with a factory varmint barrel with a faster (8) twist.

FiveInADime, I replied to your questions without hitting the 'reply' button. My bad. Please look for that post.

Its a never ending learning process, but that's what makes it fun!! Sounds like you are doing quite well, keep it up

Idaho, you have about a year and a half head start on me, but like you, I am grateful to the people on this forum for all of the information that I have learned in my short time of reloading. I have found that my 24" varmint 308 barrel seems to like 43 grains of IMR4064 behind a 155 gr. SMK Palma. Got my first 5 shot "bug hole" last weekend at 100 yards and am still grinning from ear to ear! Jump was .050, so now it is time to experiment with that. For quite a while, I used to be quite happy just shooting store bought ammo, but now that I have become addicted to this reloading thing I only buy it for fouler shots and the brass. Life is good. Again, thanks to everybody for all of the information.

Just my two cents, I have to agree completely with BoltHead and Idaho. The help and advice given in the forums and the willingness of the more experienced members to share their advice is nothing short of awesome. Thank you everyone for your assistance to me too..
HalfTrack

I've made friends with a guy here in Pocatello who has won several national long range matches. His advice is valuable. Based on questions that I've asked him and internet links that he forwarded to me I just ordered 200 new Lapua cases. Brownells has them on sale right now. I'm convinced that the bugholes I've shot so far are pure luck because the brass just happened to fall together in a match set. The rifle is capable and I'm capable so now I'm eliminating issues with the brass.

Range brass is okay if you just want to make noise but if you are looking for tack driving accuracy you need to have decent brass and process it with care.

Bolthead, bugholes with a .308! Impressive.

It was only 100 yards, and probably a fluke, but it just makes me try harder to repeat it. Love this stuff!

Sort your brass by weight. Process it carefully. Clean out the primer pockets and use a flash hole uniforming tool. Pay attention to the details and I bet you will do it again.