Savage synthetic stock

Hey guys im new here so if there is another thread with information pertaining to this topic please direct me there.

I am looking for a good synthetic stock for my Model 11 Trophy Hunter in .223 and was wondering if a model 10 stock would fit just as well as a model 11. There seem to be more options out there for the 10 and I heard that the actions are the same. I would prefer it be fully bedded at least with an aluminum block, but if it is a pretty sturdy stock i would be fine with just pillar bedded. I will be carrying this rifle for a few miles at a time and need something that doesnt add too much weight, although I dont mind adding a little.

I would like to keep it at about $250 tops, which i know isnt much, but I just saved for 8 months to be able to afford a $550 rifle.

As long as you are talking the same "options", such as: Top bolt release, stagger feed/center feed, action bolt spacing, etc. Then all short actions are the same footprint.
If you go up to the very top left of this page, click on "Home", then the "Centerfire FAQ", about the last page will give you the particulars.

The factory stocks without the accustock are very light. I glass bedded the action on one for a light weight sportier and it holds zero very well. Prior to that it was accurate but I had a wondering zero.

Granted, for best accuracy you want to avoid sling pressure or bypod use on these stocks. I am also carefull not to lean into it hard when on a front rest. Nice cheap weekend project and if it doesn't work you are out maybe 20 bucks worth of supplies.

One other tip with the plastic stock if you'd action bolts get loose, I used room temp removable lock tite on the forward action screw which I replaced with a hex head bolt. I had to do that before I bedded the rifle or they would constantly loosen up and accuracy suffered.

Keith

Ok cool. Thanks for all the suggestions. Is glass bedding something I can do in my garage? If so what brand materials? I know pretty much nothing about bedding but i would like to try it since i can just get a replacement stock if I screw up the bed job. And also my rifle is the bottom bolt release with a center feed dbm. I dont actually have the rigle on me right now so I cant measure the action screws. I don't really know if im going to have the screw problem or not since ive only shot it 50 times and .223s dont really have recoil...

If i get a hogue stock do i have to buy the bottom metal too or does it work without it?

I use the kitchen table when I know that my wife is going to be out of town for the weekend. Comfortable, air conditioned, relaxed so I don't get stressed out while I am working. Make sure you have good lighting, can get to all sides without moving the gun in the gun cradle, nothing shaky that might fall over, cover everything (table, gun cradle,...).

Have several pairs of disposable gloves handy and a trash can with a liner.

Devcon steel epoxy is what I use.

There is a really good tutorial on bedding on this site. Read it AND read a couple of others on other sites (6mmbr.com has a great one), as you get a very complete picture that way.

Do not bed the rear of the action under the safety, it should be free floated on a Savage.

Remember to remove trigger and other bits and pieces. Remove the magazine and fill with clay if it is a blind mag. A lot easier to get clay out than epoxy!

Roughen the stock and drill holes for the epoxy to grab. Clean stock and let dry.

Give action a good cleaning and then use paste wax on all the metal. Then apply paste wax a second time in case you missed a spot. That helps you sleep while waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Use clay in the stock to make dams to control the liquid.

Tape off the entire outside of the stock.

Mix up a small batch to play with so you understand the consistency that you will be dealing with and the kick over time.

Make several dry runs before you mix the epoxy. Have every thing around the area you are working covered so you don't have to worry about being too neat when you should be worried about getting the action placed where you want it quickly. Push it in and don't move it around any more than you need to. Sometimes the epoxy kicks over quicker than you expect if you are off on the mix. I was off on my mix once, apparently too much hardener, but it turned out fine as I got the action in quickly.

"Kicked over" does not mean cured! The epoxy starts getting hard in thin section in 15 to 30 minutes, be patient and wait!

After you have the action lashed down with tape or rubber tubes or whatever, clean up the excess squeeze out with tooth picks, q-tips,... The less cured epoxy where you don't want it makes the action removal and clean up go quicker.

Wait 24 hrs before you try to remove action, then clean up with knives, files, Dremel tool as needed.

I have exterior surfaces taped over so it is easy to file and sand down to the tape, then slow down and take your time to go flush.

The hex head bolts are recommended if you are going to use ROOM TEMP (ONLY!) LocTite on the action screws, and only if needed to keep the action screws tight.

Keith

Thanks for the advice kkeene! I might give it a try, depending on pricing a gunsmith could give me to do it right. It sounds like a bit much for me to be able to do with the amount of working space I have available. I'm eventually going to get a hogue stock though and i wonder if it would be better just to get their fully bedded stock and be done with it, at least until i make enough money to afford getting it glass bedded as well? It costs $100 more than the pillar bedded one and is heavier but I can deal with that if it helps with accuracy. I would rather get the pillar bedded one if it wont make any difference though. Right now i get about .70 MOA but it was a bit windy so I havent been able to really see what I can get out of it. Also if anyone knows what torque to use with aluminum bedding components and whether I need to get that bottom metal to go with the hogue that would be helpful. I think the Savage website says 30-35 inch pounds for their synthetic stock action screws but i dont think its bedded and I cant seem to find any exact numbers.