6BR good reloading equipment?

Hi all,

I'm about to begin a 6br build and currently still use all my original Lee reloading equipment. Obviously I'm gonna be looking for better consistency in my reloading as i move to the 6br, and was wondering what upgrades would you recommend? Keeping in mind that I'm looking to spend the least amount possible on new reloading gear, what upgrades have been the best money spent for you?

For example, can a visible improvement can be found by using the L.E Case Trimmer opposed to just chucking the cases in a hand drill and using the Lee case length gage. Is it worth 40+ dollars?

How are the 6br redding dies? Which would you recommend getting? Does anyone use the body die in conjunction with neck sizing?

Problems i currently have with the Lee gear:

1)horrible consistency with their bullet seating dies (at times + or - .015).

2)Inconsistent powder weights using their powder dispenser (especially with varget), making charging cases an endless chore.

I don't want any of these problems to carry over to the 6br, so any advice you could give me would be deeply appreciated!

Thanks,

Jake

1) Forster, Redding or RCBS competition/match seating dies are in order
2) I've had good luck with my lee powder measure, especially with Varget. However, if you are not happy with it you can look into a Harrel powder measure or a RCBS chargemaster. Both options are pricey.

Do you have any tips or tricks on using the lee powder measure with varget? Seems that always a different amount of powder is falling into the tube because the powder is cylindrical

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Originally Posted by jdw91

Do you have any tips or tricks on using the lee powder measure with varget? Seems that always a different amount of powder is falling into the tube because the powder is cylindrical

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How old is your measure ? Have you used it much ? It seemed like mine had better consistory after it was well used. I run several #'s through it to break in.

I would check the lenght of my bullets first before I replace the seating die. I've seen bullets that far off , it could be the die, or it may not. All my Lee seating dies work fine. My DTAC's in my 6CM are seated with a Lee seater and at 1000 yards it will shoot under .5 moa. A lot of shooters would not even look at Lee equipment , but that's o.k. it works for me.

Believe it or not you don't have to spend big money to get amazing accuracy. Many times you can spend the money and get no noticeable results. upgrading reloading components is mostly for luxury, and comfort, it gust makes it easier on the user.

To start a press is a press, none of them do anything more than another. On powder measures the Lee perfect powder measure is as accurate as the top end stuff. Trimmers, I would suggest a Wilson, it is the most accurate trimmer out there, and it is lower cost. I don't like Lee because of there customer service. I find that RCBS has the best customer service of any company I have dealt with.

On dies, I don't recommend neck sizing, get a good set of full length dies, with a micro meeter seater. I find that Forster is about the best bang for the buck. Neck sizing is 1970's technology, and even though many people have stuck to this archaic method, most of the top competitive shooters have returned to full length sizing. Yes you need a body die if your going to neck size because the case still needs sized after a certain amount of firings. My thoughts on Redding is to save you money.

My question about your bullet seating depth, is first how are you measuring them? Are you measuring them by ogive, or just over all length? Second, heave you measured the bullets to make sure the problem is not there? I have seated many bullets on Lee dies, and can not say I have seen a .015 difference between rounds.

My suggestion is to spend the money on brass, I recommend only Lapua. If you having problems with getting a consistent powder charge then I would look for something else. Remember how you move the activation lever will have an affect on the charge, it needs to be moved the same way both length of time, and speed to get a consistent charge. Come up with a system of the way your charge cases.

Thanks for the replies guys,

Good points, I have been measuring the OAL and not by the ogive. How do you measure properly?

What do you think about the Forster bump+neck size die? (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=962615). Has anyone used it? What is the general 6BR reloading procedure in regards to dies used? Which micrometer seating die would you recommend?

Also, i've heard lapua brass can run a bit tight in a .271 necked chamber, and also at the web on chambers fit for norma (?) brass... has anyone used recent Lapua brass?

Thanks again,

Jake

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Originally Posted by jdw91

I have been measuring the OAL and not by the ogive. How do you measure properly?

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That's how I measured when I first started reloading, thought my Lee seater was a piece of crap :-\ This is what I use now, I'm sure thier are better but it work's for me. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=231904

The way to measure a loaded round is by the ogive, you need to get a compensator, like Hornady makes, or Sinclair. You also need to segregate your bullets by Ogive, and this should give you a closer measurement.

Forster bump die is one of the better neck sizing dies on the market, but I would still recommend just a full length die. Micrometer seater's the best is Forster. You better off buying the set at around $80 bucks

You load 6Br like any round. The 6br does well with magnum primers. The CCi 450 is very popular, the Remington 7 1/2 is considers a magnum primer, but it is not listed as such, but another good choice for the 6br.

A tight neck is a good thing, and that is what you want. I just measured some new Lapua brass and it was at .012 thickness, that would give you a loaded cartridge of .267, that is .004 and is plenty of room. I like tight fitting chambers that need neck turned to fit, and I neck turn them .002 fit area.

Great,

So what I'm gathering is that i should be FL sizing my brass every reload? Does this not overwork the brass? Headspace issues? With the Forster BR FL die (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=317718), you can back it off a bit as to not bump the shoulder back very far. Is this recommended? What about it resizing the neck? I take it it's not a bushing style die, can you adjust the neck tension/diameter with this style? (I'll be using a .271 necked chamber). How much clearance do i need between the neck and the chamber?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by possum1

How old is your measure ? Have you used it much ? It seemed like mine had better consistory after it was well used. I run several #'s through it to break in.

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The measure has had a few pounds through it already- i ran a pound through it the first day per the lee instructions. When i'm loading a lot of plinking ammo i'll check the weight every 10 rounds or so with the lee beam scale, but for accuracy loads i'll check everyone on the Lee beam scale as well. Usually it's pretty close but not exact. How do you all measure?

Thanks,

Jake

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jdw91

So what I'm gathering is that i should be FL sizing my brass every reload? Does this not overwork the brass? Headspace issues? With the Forster BR FL die you can back it off a bit as to not bump the shoulder back very far. Is this recommended? What about it resizing the neck? I take it it's not a bushing style die, can you adjust the neck tension/diameter with this style? (I'll be using a .271 necked chamber). How much clearance do i need between the neck and the chamber?

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I am sure I am going to flamed on this, because this greatly differs from the advise that is considered as the re-loaders norm on the Internet. This is my findings from a few years reloading and the pursuit of higher accuracy. Not that I discredit the ways that people do things such as neck sizing and such but them times are over and the way loading is done has changed. I have asked many experts, and read a few books, and these are my findings.

Over working the brass is a old wives tale, The reason why you want to fl resize is if you only neck size the brass it looses it spring back and gets hard, and then looses its elasticity. By exercising the brass by FL sizing it keeps the brass in a more workable state. I have shoot pistol brass, 22/250, 243, 22BR, and 6ppc and many others well past 10 to 20 loadings FL sizing them each time and yes they would work harden in the necks and shoulder area, but I would anneal them and they was fine again. I have had brass that I had only neck sized, and run through a body die after they would not chamber anymore, get to the point you could run them through a body die, and they would still be the size they was prior to sizing them, and they was still hard to chamber. The brass was junk, and had to be thrown out. This has happened to brass that was only fires maybe 10 to 15 times.

The Forster FL die doesn't use neck bushings, if you need a FL die that uses neck bushing I highly recommend Harrell's. They are $70 bucks, but they are good dies. As stated before you need .002 clearance between your loaded round and the chamber. Some shooters have shot tighter chambers such as .001 or .0005 but most have reported that accuracy suffered and unexplained flyer's would result.

If you read Mike Ratigan's book, "extreme rifle accuracy" he only recommends using a FL die, but he places shims under the die to adjust the amount shoulder bump back. This is what I have done, and found it to work well. (I have noticed many benchrest shooters also using this same method.) I bump my shoulders back .002. A .271 is not considered a "tight neck", and I would consider it standard. (many consider .272 the standard.) I would not say you need to neck tun the brass, I would consider a "tight necked" chamber at .269, and that would be a skim cut. With your 271 neck I would skim neck tun brass for consintrisity reasons anyway. I would say a standard die would suit you fine. But you should always measure your loaded round to ensure that it will work.

Your next question is how do I measure. Well I use a Harrell measure I set it and forget it, just dump load after load into the case. Yes checking every 5 of 10th round would be advisable. When I used a Lyman 55 I would set the measure and check it every 5th round. When I used this measure I found that I would count in my head slowly 1,2,3,4, as I raised the handle with the measure at the top of its stroke at the top. I would make this a rhythm, and make every time the same tempo. I would drop the measure handle down to were I felt it stop or cutting the charge, and I would raise it back up to the top, and then back down to the stopping point 4 times, then on the 4th time I would slowly let the handle drop to the bottom and dispense the charge. I found that I could get super close accurate charges when I did this method. Experiment with this prior to charging cases weigh the charges and see.

I also modified my measure to make it work better, I used longer clear plastic drop tubes, and a baffle made by Sinclair (Just has a hole in it like a washer) that allows Hodgdon bottles to be screwed on. The best baffles are simple basically a big washer laying between the hopper than the measure works the best. (That is basically what is in my high dollar Harrell's.) Always keep your hopper full. Watch for static, wipe you measurer and hopper down with a dryer sheet. (Some people ever go as far as grounding there measurer's, by running a wire from the measurer to the ground.)

Everybody has an opinion; so I'll give mine. I don't shoot comp. but I love to shoot. I am very blessed and lucky I don't have to go very far to shoot, walk maybe 20yds. if I want and feel like it. Been hand loading now for 1.5yrs. When I first started I read and tried everything that I read, finally figured out everyone was different. When I was trying to do all the thing's other shooter's recommended the hand loading turned into work and took the fun out of it. The one thing I've learned is make every round as consistant as you can, doesn't matter what caliber it is.. When you've found something that work's stick with it. If you try to do everything you read or hear you'll drive yourself nut's; or at least I did. The one thing that does make a difference is the technique at the bench, you have to get that down and stick with it.