Anyone ever DIY coat a muzzle brake?

I recently had a muzzle brake media blasted thinking that I'd like the stainless satin look. Doesn't look bad, but it doesn't go along with the rest of the rifle either. So I'm just considering my options before taking it to get it cerakoted for ~$50. I'm a DIY first type of guy, and the $50 isn't a problem, but what's the fun in that??

Anyone ever used Krylon, Aluma-Hyde or any other rattle can coatings? Any advice or tricks for getting a nice, wear-resistant finish? It would get a thorough bath in a tub of Brakleen and then I'm thinking about 30 minutes in the oven at about 225, but I won't waste my time if it's going to flake off after 10 shots on a .300 win mag.

What say you? DIY or be boring and do it right the first time?

http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psmnboqtbj.jpg

Rattle can will wear off on all the port edges. I now use KG GunKote. It does not come off at all. Ceracoat would be good too.

I've also had success with KG GunKote on all metal gun parts including a muzzle brake. It's a bake-on gun metal finish. And it give you a gun solvent, heat resistant and weatherproof finish. Brownell's has it in a rattle can. Flat black matches the Savage black matte finish. You must get ALL the oil and grease off the parts and not touch with fingers after that until the finish has been baked on. I use acetone for cleaning parts. Bake at 315F for 1 hour. If you have access to an air compressor, then purchase a 2 oz or 4 oz can of GunKote online from KG industries or Midway. Then get a cheap Harbor Freight hobby airbrush kit. It's cheaper and easier to get professional DIY results.

You can remove bluing from chrome moly parts by soaking in white vinegar. Rinse with soap and water, dry, dip in acetone to remove moisture and then airbrush with a primer coat of KG K-Phos prior to applying GunKote for durable gun metal finish.

Forgot to add Duracoat will come off too. Just takes a little longer than rattle can.

I'm in the same boat. Dropped two black anodized brakes in the ultrasonic cleaner to remove soot and they came out pink and black tye-dye. Buddy owns a cerakote shop so I might just have him do it along with the chassis I just ordered from xlr.

This is what i've done to two Arsenal AK74 muzzle brakes. It's been over two years and they still look the same as when I did them.

Dupli-Color "Low Gloss Black part # DE1634 Engine Enamel with ceramic" It says it is good up to 500 degrees so it seems pretty stout stuff.
__Hang part with wire
__Heat part with hair dryer
__Spray a light "tack coat" and let it dry for 10-15 minutes
__ Put on a slightly heavier finish coat. Let that dry for another 10-15 minutes and then check CLOSELY for any missed spots and touch up as necessary.
__When you have it like you want it, let dry totally for a couple of hours then you are ready to bake it.
__Move the top rack of the oven as high as it would go then hung the part via the wires from that.
__Bake the part for about 2 hours at 275 degrees and then turn the oven off and leave the part in the oven while it slowly cools to the point where it’s cool enough to handle. (or overnight)
__Sit the part in a safe spot and let it cure on out for another 2 weeks.

I figured rattle cans probably were not the way to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jpdown

I've also had success with KG GunKote on all metal gun parts including a muzzle brake. It's a bake-on gun metal finish. And it give you a gun solvent, heat resistant and weatherproof finish. Brownell's has it in a rattle can. Flat black matches the Savage black matte finish. You must get ALL the oil and grease off the parts and not touch with fingers after that until the finish has been baked on. I use acetone for cleaning parts. Bake at 315F for 1 hour. If you have access to an air compressor, then purchase a 2 oz or 4 oz can of GunKote online from KG industries or Midway. Then get a cheap Harbor Freight hobby airbrush kit. It's cheaper and easier to get professional DIY results.

You can remove bluing from chrome moly parts by soaking in white vinegar. Rinse with soap and water, dry, dip in acetone to remove moisture and then airbrush with a primer coat of KG K-Phos prior to applying GunKote for durable gun metal finish.

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Thanks for the insight. I've seen the cheap spray guns from HF a few times and have been close to buying one, just never thought I'd use it enough to justify getting one. Sounds like it might be worth it so I can use it to coat bottom metals and mags and things of that sort too rather than paying on a per coating basis. GunKote sounds like it's the way to go.

Htv I think it's called is amazing stuff. A buddy of mine painted his tranny in his diesel truck with it, a month or so later the tranny blew. The shop guaranteed him it would come off as they use pretty rough cleaning solvents. Came out looking like the day we painted it. It's a high temperature varnish(hence the htv) should stand up to muzzle blast.

If you use duracoate try the preval spray system if you dont have a airbrush or spray gun. Like was said before K-phos for SS.