FCP-SR finish question...

Hey all,

So as I posted in the "Beware" thread, I bought this rifle to do a build and one of the first things I did was to install a muzzle brake. I heavily wrapped the barrel in rubber (1/4" thick hard rubber) and clamped it into my vice to install. Unfortunately the crush washer had me needing to turn this brake almost 270degrees.

To my amazement, the vice managed to cut through the thick rubber padding I used just enough to put a scratch about .010" deep into one of the flute ribs http://thefiringline.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif

I managed to sand it out without too much trouble, but the finish came off immediately with a few passes of 600grit paper so no doubt this aint no melonite finish to be sure.

Any suggestions how to bring back a factory flat black finish would be appreciated. I'm tempted to spray the entire barrel flat black with some BBQ grill paint or other flat black heat resistant paint ... lol.

Being the amount of money I'll have into this build I'd rather do it right. Any suggestions besides next time don't be an idiot would be appreciated. I already feel like an idiot. I couldn't find my barrel clamp but thought I'd be ok with the thickness of the rubber I was using...

Sounds like my last trip to the doctor ... :frusty:

I'd like to "restore" the factory finish if possible.

Thanks in advance!

Cerakote it if you want to do it right

Is that what the factory is using?

If so, the stuff sure isn't very durable. As I said, a few passes over it with fine sand paper takes the finish RIGHT off.

Im thinking it's nothing but a cheap black primer or Teflon paint flat black finish..

Well, I decided to Cerakote the barrel... BLACK, because that was the finish to fit this build and because I'm an idiot for scratching the barrel.

Called Savage and they claim it's a flat black bluing ... I'm not buying that.

Will be getting rid of an Accustock and a couple overpriced Savage Mags which should pay for the cost of Cerakote.

While your at it why not go a custom color ? Same price ...

Want a black barrel and other components black for this build to offset chassis color

Get some G96 Bluing crème. It will give you color closest to the Savage matte black. Repeat application about 3 times to get dark matching finish.

If you have access to a small air compressor, then I would go with a flat black bake-on epoxy finish like GunKote or Cerakote vs. using hardware spray paints. GunKote is also available in rattle-can from Brownell's. You can strip off the bluing with vinegar water solution. Prime with KG Phos 4000 to prevent rusting and then use a cheap hobby air-brush kit (Harbor freight) and GunKote satin black. You'll get a tough, durable, solvent resistant flat black finish that won't fade or rust like bluing. These products are sold by Midway. The small 4 oz cans will do several guns.

Thanks for the info jpdown. I have the air compressor that's more than adequate to do the job, would just need airbrush supplies and adapters I'm sure... Leaning towards cerakote ultimately. As I'll have to much in this to justify.. But may try the g96 bluing cream as well to hold me over.

As I said. Savage claims the barrel is a matte black bluing job.

Thank you you for the information and suggestions. Very much appreciated.

I like Gunkote because it dries without curing and therefore is easier to handle while transferring to the oven, for what that's worth.

Also, DON"T be afraid of the cheap $10 airbrush kit from Harbor Freight. It is designed to be disposable, comes with a hose and 6 jars. Works PERFECTLY for gun finishing. It's AMAZING, really. :) I first tried quality air brushes that I had bought many years ago for train modeling, etc. They di not work well for this. It was a miserable and expensive deal. That cheap, plastic, disposable piece of garbage from Harbor Freight was just what I needed. Also, I get dozens of uses out of it as well, before throwing it away. (Don't bother cleaning it when done, either. Acetone and many other solvents will do more harm than good to the plastic. Just run water thru it if you think you must. If it clogs, pitch the jar and grab another from the same box! It's all you need, really.

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-c...kit-93506.html

Cerakote is good stuff, brownells Aluma Hyde II is good and Norrels moly resin is good and very thin no hardner and needs to be baked

Quote:

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Originally Posted by foxx

I like Gunkote because it dries without curing and therefore is easier to handle while transferring to the oven, for what that's worth.

Also, DON"T be afraid of the cheap $10 airbrush kit from Harbor Freight. It is designed to be disposable, comes with a hose and 6 jars. Works PERFECTLY for gun finishing. It's AMAZING, really. :) I first tried quality air brushes that I had bought many years ago for train modeling, etc. They di not work well for this. It was a miserable and expensive deal. That cheap, plastic, disposable piece of garbage from Harbor Freight was just what I needed. Also, I get dozens of uses out of it as well, before throwing it away. (Don't bother cleaning it when done, either. Acetone and many other solvents will do more harm than good to the plastic. Just run water thru it if you think you must. If it clogs, pitch the jar and grab another from the same box! It's all you need, really.

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-c...kit-93506.html

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Awesome! Thanks for the suggestion. This may be the way I go.

I'm not real worried about the finish being super durable. Just an even finish. The Chasis I bought is Cerakote. Looked at Gunkote as an option. May go that route though I'd prefer to not have to bake it if possible.