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This winter, I would like to start reloading for my Savage .223. (Target benchrest only)
Are there any books that would be recommended before I start on this adventure which would explain exactly what would be needed as well as the recommended steps? It is bewildering looking at what is available and then recommended bells and whistles at the various e-tailer sites.
I know I could call up Brownells but would rather have opinions here than a sales "pitch" from a retailer.
All the info you need can be found in just about any reloading manual. The Sierra manual is probably the most comprehensive. As far books go, The Ultimate In Rifle Accuracy is pretty good and covers techniques in loading as well as bench techniques and equipment. Hand Loading for Competition is also a good one.
The ABC's of reloading is a great book to start with.
As Stomp said, just about ANY loading manual will give you more info than you are likely to absorb short of a few re-readings and some application.
What MOST people screw-up, is being consistent, and powder knowledge.
For a few examples:
Extruded powder has it's burning rate controlled by geometry. It's "power" or amount of nitro varies, but gets controlled by size. So loading a consistent weight, can vary your case fill; which will further shift your burning rate. How much that matters, depends on what your accuracy goals are.
"Extreme" powders are NOT a universal property, they are application specific. Some good scientific papers done by Dr. Bramwell on this subject. Varget can provide very fine groups in the 223, but is far for sensitive than the very old H335.
Typically the most accurate node is NOT the fastest one.
Glen Zediker Handloading for Competition does a good a job explaining, with a little more detail. Everyone has their own ideas, but this a good book to get started with.
If this is for short range BR you are already at a disadvantage using a 223. Most shooters are using a 30br or one of the 6mm cartridges. Bigger bullet bigger hole = higher score.
Although some do use the 223 they rarely score high enough to win or even place but it can be done. If you already own the 223 use the heaviest bullet that will shoot for you but my suggestion and it is my opinion only buy a bench rest caliber or convert what you have.
Go here http://www.internationalbenchrest.com/ and look at the results of the matches and there is normally an equipment list of all the shooters. See what is being used, what is winning and then make your decision. Word of caution 30 br is a lot of work for the inexperienced.
Read some of the articles at 6br.com or at accurateshooter.com you will learn plenty, and don't be afraid to ask questions here or on the other forums dedicated to bench rest, most everyone is friendly with lots of good advice on how to get started.
Ditto what others have said, they've been a great help to me since first falling down this (reloading) rabbit hole a year ago. I too shoot a Savage 223 (model 12 BVSS) and can tell you it is a very capable "tac driver" right out of the box. Cheap to reload too, about 35 cents a pop, which is about what you can buy ready to shoot ammo for if you do some research, so don't expect to save anything by reloading. It's all about gaining an education and shooting more accurately than store bought ammo will provide. It's fun too :p
I shoot bench rest only, simply because my local range has nice benches set up and good sand bags to shoot from, and targets at 50, 100, 200, and 300 yds. And if I want to shoot further, there's another local range that goes out to 1000 yds for plinking steel, if I want to really test a good long distance load.
There is one thing I'd like add though, something that took a while for me to figure out. If you're typically shooting at 100-300 yds, there's a whole lot of prep work and expensive stuff you don't have to buy or do cause it really make no difference when shooting at what's referred to as "point blank" range. I think most here will agree that an off the shelf .223 is most useful at 300 yds and less. You can hit steel at 500 yds. easily, but can't really depend upon shooting small groups in paper at that range without spending some large coin on a gunsmith and precision reloading equipment.
If you're not into competition but more of a hobbyist like me, watch for the upcoming pre-holiday sales at the big box sporting good stores and get a good reloading starting set from Hornaday, RCBS etc. There will be some good deals coming out shortly.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
That I disagree with, a group of us have been using factory rifles with standard Lee dies to shoot MOA to 1k.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
I stand corrected sir. I tried to choose my words carefully when I wrote "most effective".
The Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Manual is also a good one.
Folks- Thank you for the advice and information. I have some good starting points.
I will be shooting 1-200 yards only for the present (range limitations).
Rifle is the Model 12 F/TR. I use an MWerks fore end slide plate for width.
Since you already have the rifle and it should be a 1:7 twist try the heavy 80 or 90 gr. Sierra Match Kings using their reloading guide pick a load about mid point and work up from there at .5gr. increments. Start your seating depth at about .018 off the lands moving in/out at .003 until you find the sweet spot(almost willing to bet it will be right around the .020 off mark).
The 7 twist allows you to use the heavy bullets and they will perform much better for you at the ranges you are going to shoot.
If you would rather try a different brand go ahead just go heavy and use the manual from that brand of bullet. Everything else comes from trial and error, just follow the book and be safe.
When at matches ask questions of the older guys they will be more than happy to assist you.
One last thing READ the book don't skip around and follow the directions step by step.