Could be the picture but your sear looks like it has some strange wear on it. It should be a nice smooth, flat edge with no burrs and it looks like it has a slight channel in the middle and very uneven wear.
Could be the picture but your sear looks like it has some strange wear on it. It should be a nice smooth, flat edge with no burrs and it looks like it has a slight channel in the middle and very uneven wear.
^ Ditto! Picture makes it look like it is a "Mess"! :-( ^
Looks like I am gonna break out the dremel and flitz and polish the sear. I just got back from the range and it shot 48 out of 50. I love the caliber and the rifle and will always have it, but when it goers " click", It makes me create some new cuss words. Can someone take a clear picture of what a good clean seer should look like please ? Thanks
Trapper. Lets verify that you have clearance. When you pull the trigger the sear slips off the ledge of the trigger. As the force of the trigger spring pushes the top of the sear down the bottom portion that contacts the trigger makes an ark that follows the large radius of the trigger.
This must have clearance. Verifiable Clearance as in feeler gauge or coke can thickness throughout the travel. It is obtained by backing out the screw minute amounts if there is none. This is important because it can obstruct the movement of the firing pin. If it is not that then you have an obstruction in the bolt or someone has lightened the spring by cutting it or adjusting the cocking piece end or the firing pin spring. I hate to keep pushing this but I want to make sure this is not the problem as you have ruled out head space. If you do verify the clearance and still have the problem, then you need to look at your bolt.
Best picture I can get of the sear. Im not savy enoigh to visually see anything wrong
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...psyxnswasl.jpg
Robinhood, whatcha think? Obviously not cocked.
http://www.shootingtimes.com/files/2...vage_0813a.jpg
This is a picture off the internet of a new trigger assembly.
Close the bolt, pull the trigger(empty chamber), release the trigger. Now pull on the trigger again. If it moves enough to clear the trigger throughout the travel you are good. If not turn the screw between the two springs counter clockwise less than an eighth of a turn.
If you do have clearance we need to look at the bolt internals.
I just got back from the range today and saw your response. The trigger does exactly what you said it should do. LOL, Thank goodness too, cause that screw you mentioned has epoxy dabbed on the head. Now, here are two pictures showing all 50 rounds from today. All primers were struck and three FTF. I took one picture so you could see all the primers and then popped up the three that didn't. Now I am going to take the bolt apart again and double check the mainspring and all the other parts as well. It's like a jig saw puzzle, but I will find the secret it holds within.
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...pse4bmh0s9.jpg
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...psse2eenui.jpg
There are a few things you need to look for when checking your bot assembly. The cross pin needs to be lined up with the firing pin and you need to have close to .250 of travel. This is best done by making sure your cocking pin is very close to the bottom of the bolt's cut out /window. The firing pin should slide back and forth easily when you shake it. The cocking pin when at the fired position should move ever so slightly side to side when it is at the bottom of the slot(narrowest point). I like to say about .010 of the bottom. Ideally this will give you something close to the 1/4" of firing pin travel. This should be done after verifying you pin protrusion of .050 +or- .005. There are different schools of thought on protrusion and I use what some of the custom action manufacturers suggest or thereabouts.
Am I seeing more than one primer manufacture in the box?
Yes sir, I was using a few Remington 71/2 and the rest were CCI 450's.
Trapper when all else fails change to a hand priming tool instead of the bench mounted one. You may not be getting the primers fully seated which would also cause the problems you are having. If your wolf primers are flush with the brass they are not seating all the way. At least not in my AA brass. Just another thing to consider.
Thanks Earl, for the suggestion, LOL, I have tried about everything else. Spent an hour on the phone today with Savage and they had me take the bolt apart for probably the 10th time, and had me micing every part of the bolt. They are sending me a Savage 7.62x39 bolt head to try and see if that stops the problem. I have a PPG bolt head on it now, cause Savage wasn't making the 7.62x39 bolt head at the time.
I've been using the RCBS primer loader for so long now, I will have to dig my hand primer out of the "extra stuff box". Can't believe I hadn't thought about that idea.
Thanks again,
Trapper
check post #18 ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapper
LongRange, I apologize for not answering that question about "did you uniform your primer pockets?" I clean my primer pockets each time I use that piece of brass. I have a Lyman electric machine for cleaning primer pockets, plus the inside and outside of the mouth. When I get back from the range I immediately resize the brass to knock out the primers, and check the length to see if I have to do any trimming. Then off to the ultrasonic cleaner and then the tumbler for clean brass. Blow out the brass with hot air from a hair dry. I then put them in marked boxes until I am ready to use. Saying all that, I'm still not sure if I answered your question. I push the primers out and clean the pocket, not sure if that is uniforming the primer pocket. Just do the best I can LOL.
Thanks,
Trapper
You are going to know your rifle real well when this is said and done.
Robinhoood, you made me spill my coffee in my lap, and you are sooooo right. LOL
LMAO...yes he will!Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Well you did answer and the answer is no lol....uniforming primer pockets is a means of making all of your PPs the same depth by using an end mill to trim brass out of the bottom of the pocket to achieve a uniformed depth and a nice flat bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapper
But also in post 18 i said(and as earl said)that a primer not seated deep enough will cause a miss fire because the firing pin is just knocking the anvil out of the primer cup...as earl suggested...primer your brass with your hand primer... and pay attention...you will kinda feel the primer hit the bottom and then just give it a little pressure to make sure the anvil is bottomed out in the pocket and i bet every round fires.
And i apologize for not being clearer in that post.
LongRange, be careful giving me all your secrets, as one day I might be able to shoot with ya. LOL Midwayusa has a RCBS Primer pocket uniformer that screws into the "CaseMate" electronic tool For cleaning the inside, outside of the case mouths as well as cleaning the primer pocket. Will this "uniform primer pocket cleaner " do more than just clean the pocket? Sorry to keep asking questions.
Thanks,
Trapper
as long as you get the one that is carbide and only designed to cut on the end.
do your self a favor if your going to buy uniforming tools and buy GOOD tools...these are good tools....i think brownells/sinclair make an adapter that screws into the case mate...Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapper
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...720-63188.aspx
personally i prefer the K&M tools and chuck them in a cordless drill...if using a cordless drill get one thats max RPM is 400 or less...slow is good when uniforming brass...also note the price on the RCBS and on the k&m...
https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/p...tion-tool.html
21st century shooting makes good tools as well...and yes you can use the uniforming tool to clean pockets but as robinhood said make sure its a carbide cutter...as far as shooting with me...thats not hard to do LOL!
if your heart is set on the RCBS tool shoot me a PM...i have one ill give you and also through in the laymen small and large uniformers...all POS's IMHO.
So far LongRange and Earl win the "solve the problem prize, at least so far. Robinhood wins a big prize for putting up with all my questions and pictures. Last night I took 100 Lapia pcs of brass that had been primed with the table top RCBS Priming tool and I broke out the hand ptimer and ran each piece of brass thru as if I was priming. Probably 85% had that little extra movement that you could barely feel, but movement there was. I loaded 50 rounds and went to the range today and LongRange was correct, every round fired. I haven't popped a beer yet, but ot's been a long trip to get to this point. Plus I learned about uniforming my priner pockets. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks. Watch channel 276 on Direct tV tonight for a show called " The Science of Stupid" and one day I will be on there.
LongRange, whenever I get an interest in something, I always learn the hard way and have a workshop filled with POS. I think we have all done that one.
You're the guys that make this site what it is and I don't worry about being made to feel stupid for asking a question.
Thanks again to all you guys for your help,
Trapper
Great journey. I have always used a hand primer and never experienced this. I have had a trigger drag and cause misfires though.
if you REALLY want to know whats going on when you seat primers get one of these...
https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/p...mer_gauge.html
seating primers is a bigger deal than most ppl realize.....
LR, There are so many powders, primers and bullets, that it's confusing enough to just read what everyone likes. Like they say, put 10 guys in a room and ask one question and you'll get 10 different answers and each one will be justified to their satisfaction. LOL KM shooting maikes qute a few things I would love to have, but I'm not that serious about my shooting.
Your right about that...and of the 10 talking i wouldnt believe any of them... id find out for myself.