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Looking for a thread or tutorial on adjusting savage firing pins. Was getting some weak primer marks without ignition so I took my bolt apart. Firing pin is fine as is the spring but I see the firing pin is threaded on both ends. I see how to increase firing pin protrusion but want to set it correctly. Any advice appreciated.
Is the inside of the body dirty (old oil or lube)is the pin hole and pin assembly clean? Id try cleaning it up real good before adjusting it.
Clean the inside of the bolt and make sure it is clean and smooth. Lubricate.
Firing pin protrusion is necessary but so is travel The cocking pin should travel to the somewhere near the bottom of the window of the bolt but not make contact with the body when it bottoms out. There is some wiggle room but the velocity and inertia increases with travel.
The cross pin hole needs to be aligned. This is done when you are putting things back together. When you slide the firing pin assembly into the bolt shake it around and make sure it moves freely. Depressing the wave washer by pressing the bolt body and the bolt head together can help if it snug and does not loosen up.
The type of lube used can have a negative effect also. Use something that is not tacky when lubricating the inside of the bolt.
Guys thanks. I've done all the above with no change. I have the firing pin out and would like to know the specs on thread count etc on both ends of the firing pin.
Firing pin protrusion should measure in the .040" to .050" neighborhood, measure with FP in fired position. To adjust, the spring needs to be compressed to take pressure off the FP stop nut, between spring & stop nut is fire pin stop nut washer, washer is made to lock stop nut in place. Disengage washer & stop nut can be adjusted.
If you are reloading this could be brass that has had shoulder set back to far.
Thanks. I have the firing pin apart and nut and washers removed. In all that I've done to savage rifles this is the first time I've completely disassembled a firing pin. Good to see how all this goes together. I just want to make sure I set things correctly.
Once you have set the protrusion by measuring the difference from the end of the Bolt head to the counter bore face and the outside face to the end of the firing pin, You assemble the cocking pieces and slide them in the bolt. At that point you see how far the cocking pin goes forward in the bolt body window. The nut on the tail end determines that as well as adjusts the preload on the spring.
When you cock the bolt the cocking sleeve allows the spring to be compressed. the travel from the lowest point to the point where the trigger sear hold the cocking pin is the distance the firing pin will travel to strike the primer.
There may be an exact number of thread turns to get this but manufacturing tolerences as well as different length of actions makes this more of an adjust on the fly based on the bolt that you have.