111 lrh terrible accuracy

First off I'll start with thank you to every that reads this most and for any input on my problem. so I have a savage model 111 long range hunter in 300 win mag. I bought new about a year and a half ago and I mounted a vortex viper on it with a blackhawk one piece rail and weaver tactical rings. I removed the stock and fixed the the fore end where the stock touched and adjusted the trigger to 2.5 pounds. The best group I have ever got out of it is 3 moa, and I have have used three different bullet weights and brands the groups are always 2 rounds low and right and one high and left. I don't know what else to do any advice or insight would be great

What bullets have you shot?
My guess is you have not found what it likes yet, but check all the usual things, base screws, scope rings, action screws.

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Originally Posted by olddav

What bullets have you shot?
My guess is you have not found what it likes yet, but check all the usual things, base screws, scope rings, action screws.

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I shot Remington core lokt 150 and 180 ppu 150 and 165 and hornady white tail classic 150s in it I checked the scope mounts and the base and they were all tight

Trying to diagnose why it won't shoot over the internet with that information is like divining the meaning of life....... By rights it should be a shooter period, good gun, great cartridge. There is obviously a major problem somewhere have you had a gunsmith look at it. have you had someone look inside the barrel with a borescope?

I had a 30-06 that didn't shoot any better than 3 MOA untill I found the ammo it liked, then it would shoot 1-1/4" at 100 yards.
Try some cheap Fusion bullets maybe Federal Powershok. Lots of good reports from folks on these two, may or may not work for your but it's cheaper than a gunsmith.

Take a look at this thread, it will illustrate what I'm talking about
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...vage-116-30-06
I may have screwed this link up, never tried it before.

Ammo is extremely likely to be the problem, that being said: there are things you can do.
Check the stock inside and look for ware patterns incase the action or recoil lug are not properly seating.
Check all of olddav's list of usual suspects, action screws, base to action, rings to base, rings to scope.
Inspect the muzzle's crown.
Switch to a trusted scope (especially) if this one has never given good groups.
I assume you do not hand load so.........Do you know anyone local that does?
Do you have the tools to check the head space?
Are you a capable rifleman? Experienced with a magnum?........No offense, just have to ask.
Wile a dramatically defective barrel is always possible, it is the last thing to look at as odds are there is one of a dozen more likely issues going on.
Gunsmith?...................What's a gunsmith???

Gunsmith is a guy who charges you 50bucks to look at a rifle and keeps you from selling it at a loss because you don't know what to look for........

Gunsmith is a guy that charges you $50+ bucks to find something simple you could of found yourself if you had taken the time to learn what to look for.............A wealth of knowledge at your fingertips: USE IT.
Besides, if you pay someone else to do things that can easily be done yourself= you'll always need someone else to do it for you. Things happen, If your going to learn to drive them, you might as well learn what it takes to keep them drivable.

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Originally Posted by D.ID

Ammo is extremely likely to be the problem, that being said: there are things you can do.
Check the stock inside and look for ware patterns incase the action or recoil lug are not properly seating.
Check all of olddav's list of usual suspects, action screws, base to action, rings to base, rings to scope.
Inspect the muzzle's crown.
Switch to a trusted scope (especially) if this one has never given good groups.
I assume you do not hand load so.........Do you know anyone local that does?
Do you have the tools to check the head space?
Are you a capable rifleman? Experienced with a magnum?........No offense, just have to ask.
Wile a dramatically defective barrel is always possible, it is the last thing to look at as odds are there is one of a dozen more likely issues going on.
Gunsmith?...................What's a gunsmith???

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im with D.ID on this especially this "Are you a capable rifleman? Experienced with a magnum?"
also what exactly did you do to the fore end? could the barrel be touching the fix you made?

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Originally Posted by D.ID

Ammo is extremely likely to be the problem, that being said: there are things you can do.
Check the stock inside and look for ware patterns incase the action or recoil lug are not properly seating.
Check all of olddav's list of usual suspects, action screws, base to action, rings to base, rings to scope.
Inspect the muzzle's crown.
Switch to a trusted scope (especially) if this one has never given good groups.
I assume you do not hand load so.........Do you know anyone local that does?
Do you have the tools to check the head space?
Are you a capable rifleman? Experienced with a magnum?........No offense, just have to ask.
Wile a dramatically defective barrel is always possible, it is the last thing to look at as odds are there is one of a dozen more likely issues going on.
Gunsmith?...................What's a gunsmith???

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I feel I'm a capable rifleman. I can shoot all my other rifles 1 moa pretty easy. I have rem 700 2506 that that I can shoot 1/2 moa with no problem. that being said I don't think its my skills that are the problem. I m going to try some other ammo and see if that helps. I also took the action back out of the stock and checked to see if I could find any problems and it all looks good so reinstalled the action and torque the action screws to 40 in lbs and I'll try and shoot it tomorrow and see what I find.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

im with D.ID on this especially this "Are you a capable rifleman? Experienced with a magnum?"
also what exactly did you do to the fore end? could the barrel be touching the fix you made?

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The barrel is not touching, that is what i fixed is the barrel was not floated so I sanded some material out of the fore end so the barrel no longer touched

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Originally Posted by LLYDIRTYMAX

The barrel is not touching, that is what i fixed is the barrel was not floated so I sanded some material out of the fore end so the barrel no longer touched

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What type of rest set up are you using with this rifle.... You have somewhat of a pattern going by knowing where the shots continually land . (2 low and right and then high to the left , this could be indicative of barrel to stock clearance or a bedding issue )

When was the last time the bore was cleaned thoroughly?

Have you tried doing a 10 shot group allowing for cooling? (this may prove some insight with regards to where the group wants to levitate to) If the group continually climbs see barrel channel clearance.

If you are using a bipod perhaps try something as simple as a sandbag instead.

**Be absolutely sure you have ZERO parallax in the scope .

When you replaced the action back into the stock did you lightly install the screws (loose enough for action to move forward and back) and then firmly bump the recoil pad on the floor to ensure recoil lug is fully seated against the bedding area , then start incrementally tightening the screws starting with the front in 5 inch pound increments till you got to your torque setting.

I have the same rifle and it will shoot MOAall day or better. Does it make a difference if the brake is on or off? I mounted mine into a boyds FTH eventually but it didn't effect accuracy negatively

Remember to not have the back action screw to tight.

Have you had the barrel re-crowned? Have you tried the "ball & dummy" drill? Give a friend 3 live rounds and 1 dummy round, let them load your rifle (without you looking), when you squeeze the trigger maybe the rifle goes bang, maybe it won't...have your buddy watch you very closely, this is a good test to see if you are anticipating the recoil. Even the slightest flinch might cause the grouping problem. Are you jumping off the trigger? Have you verified that your scope is still "tracking"? Just a few suggestions. I'm not trying to imply that the problem is with you.

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Originally Posted by Patch700

What type of rest set up are you using with this rifle.... You have somewhat of a pattern going by knowing where the shots continually land . (2 low and right and then high to the left , this could be indicative of barrel to stock clearance or a bedding issue )

When was the last time the bore was cleaned thoroughly?

Have you tried doing a 10 shot group allowing for cooling? (this may prove some insight with regards to where the group wants to levitate to) If the group continually climbs see barrel channel clearance.

If you are using a bipod perhaps try something as simple as a sandbag instead.

**Be absolutely sure you have ZERO parallax in the scope .

When you replaced the action back into the stock did you lightly install the screws (loose enough for action to move forward and back) and then firmly bump the recoil pad on the floor to ensure recoil lug is fully seated against the bedding area , then start incrementally tightening the screws starting with the front in 5 inch pound increments till you got to your torque setting.

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I have a harris bi pod for my rest, I do all my shooting prone like I would hunting. I will try some sand bags and I will remove the screws and retorque them with you procedure I snuged them both hand right then went straight to 40in lbs first the front screw then the back hopefully that is my problem

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Originally Posted by Desertwolf

I have the same rifle and it will shoot MOAall day or better. Does it make a difference if the brake is on or off? I mounted mine into a boyds FTH eventually but it didn't effect accuracy negatively

Remember to not have the back action screw to tight.

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Mine shoots a little bit better with the muzzle brake on . what type of ammo does yours shoot best ?

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Originally Posted by LLYDIRTYMAX

I have a harris bi pod for my rest, I do all my shooting prone like I would hunting. I will try some sand bags and I will remove the screws and retorque them with you procedure I snuged them both hand right then went straight to 40in lbs first the front screw then the back hopefully that is my problem

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I was shooting all over the place with my 116/300 win mag and a bipod. I lost the bipod and used a sandbag and have had much better results! The magnums seem to kick around a lot on a bipod. Also hold the fore-end firmly to control the muzzle on recoil, something difficult to do with a bi-pod attached. Hope this helps!