Long range 7-08

Folks I need yalls thoughts on biulding a long range rifle on a stevens 200 SA. The caliber is going to be a 7-08. I know that there may be better choices but this is what I want. I want this gun to be the most efficient it can be at the farthest range possible for that caliber. It will be used as a deer rifle at distances out to 350yds but I want the gun to have the capability to reach out to competition distances if I choose to try that in the future. So what I need is your suggestions on barrel length, twist, contour perhaps, and optics. Thanks in advance I'm looking forward to reading what yall have to say.

26" CBI Barrel, 1-9 Twist, Heavy Hunter Contour.

I built a 26" .308 using a stevens action and a cbi light varmint. I love it, extremely accurate.

Dave

Any suggestions on a good stock for the stevens 200.

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Originally Posted by jraney

Any suggestions on a good stock for the stevens 200.

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Go to www.stockysstocks.com, and pick one based on the barrel contour you get. Most likely, if hunting is your main shooting, you will get a sporter contour, and have a couple of good choices in the range of $240. The action will need to be bedded; another $125. I ran those based on the short action with 4.40" spacing on the action screws (the newer actions). Then there is the Bell & Carlson Tactical Medalist, which has a larger barrel channel for heavier barrels; also under $250, and I would also get it bedded. The Tactical Medalist is an outstanding stock, but might be too large in proportion for usual hunting. It's not a weight issue, though, since these are relatively light. That stock would give you the option of putting on a heavier barrel in the future, but will look like loose britches with a sporter-weight barrel. Myself, I would not care; I love the Tactical Medalist stock.
Jim

7-08 is a fine choice for what you are wanting to do. I would look at pushing a 168 berger out of at least a 26" barrel to maximize potential of the cartridge.

Alright thanks for the info.

hard to build a riffle for hunting and comps because a comp riffle is going to be heavy so id say a 28" bull if you want the most range out of it and deal with the weight when hunting.

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Originally Posted by wbm

26" CBI Barrel, 1-9 Twist, Heavy Hunter Contour.

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+1
One doesn't need a 28" bull barrel and a heavy stock weighing 13lbs+ to shoot in a comp, assuming its a tactical long range and not an F-class type comp. If you ever decide to get really serious about comps then you will build a purpose built rifle for that. If it were me and I wanted to have both capabilities with that caliber I would load 162 gr Hornady SST for hunting and the 162 Amax for comp. You can a get little more velocity with the 162's since it doesn't quite have the capacity as most other 7mm. I wouldn't go heavier than a light varmint contour to keep weight down and a magnum contour on the light end.
A 3x15 range FFP optic should suffice and the stock options mentioned earlier are all good. There is the Boyd's Tacticool also. I believe the wood laminates should all be fairly light and definitely bed the action. I would go with PTG or CDI bottom metal. Good luck.

Most guys shooting in tac comps guns are weighing in right around the 12-14lb mark as most are shooting longer heavier barrels...at least in my neck of the woods... reason being is a heavy barrel shoots more consistent from cold to hot...I watched a kid call and shoot two back to back 550yd head shots with a 14.3lb 243AI from the standing position which he shoots all over the west coast in tac comps.A heavy riffle to me is over 16lbs but then im not a hunter or shooting in run and gun comps.

Hey thanks for the info I appreciate it. I would really like to keep the gun shorter if possible. As far as weight, that's not that big of an issue to me being as all my shooting is done from a rest. My thoughts for the biuld were 20" heavy barrel good stock good glass. I know at 20" I will lose some velocity but that's fine. What do yall think about this idea. ?

If weight isn't an issue why shorten the barrel? You must have a reason.

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Originally Posted by jraney

Hey thanks for the info I appreciate it. I would really like to keep the gun shorter if possible. As far as weight, that's not that big of an issue to me being as all my shooting is done from a rest. My thoughts for the biuld were 20" heavy barrel good stock good glass. I know at 20" I will lose some velocity but that's fine. What do yall think about this idea. ?

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Why would you go with a 20" barrel if you shoot from a rest? You REALLY need to do some research before you order your barrel.

I suspect you will be disappointed if you try to shoot long range with heavy bullets and 7mm-08 in a 20" barrel, the velocity will suffer quite a lot. But, I've never tried it myself, so ... grain of salt and all that.

It is easy to become disappointed with a compromise rifle if you are really serious about hunting and long range target shooting, depending on how you define the latter. If you only want to hit steel a couple of times a year then no problem; on the other hand if you are talking something like F Class then you will have problems. Why not get a low cost take-off sporter barrel for hunting season, and buy a nice aftermarket long/heavy one that is best suited for targets.

I bought my wife a 116 WEATHER WARRIOR LH for the action to build her a LR rig. I kept the 7mm RM barrel and composite stock (hinged floor plate). I put a Rock Creek .243 1/8 twist Light Palma contour barrel on it and set in a Choate Varmint Stock. Spent this past Summer doing load development for Long range shoots. I plan on switching back to the factory stock and barrel and developing loads for hunting for her. The swap takes about 30-45 min. Two single purpose rifles (big game hunting, long range tactical) in one platform. Best of both worlds.

Hey guys thanks for the input. The reason I wanted the 20" barrel was simply for easier usage. I'm not against having a heavy gun. I do not shoot comp and probably never will. I do on the other hand like the idea of having the capability to reach way out. Just to be clear not going to shoot deer or anything bigger than coyotes at long range. Matter of fact the gun will probably never be shot farther than 400yds. I do really like a gun with a heavy barrel. I know looks don't make a gun shoot any better but we all know looks do matter.

I'm currently building a rifle to fill a need about what you are doing. I'm using a surgeon action. Went with a kriger #5 contour 1:9 twist. I'm going to have it cut to 20.5" I plan to use a can some. And the caliber I chose was 7mm-08 imp. Good balance and the increased velocity will help counteract the shorter tube. Hoping to get an honest 3100 fps with 140gn barnes ttsx. I'll have a lighter weight rifle I can pack on high country mule deer hunts or go shoot I'm comp style matches (purely for fun) going with a McMillan gamescout stock. (Last part I need to send it to smith) should have it in late march or April. With the glass and rings I hope it comes in under 9lbs sans suppressor.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

hard to build a riffle for hunting and comps because a comp riffle is going to be heavy so id say a 28" bull if you want the most range out of it and deal with the weight when hunting.

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+1, That's what I used when I built my 7-08 only I used a long action so I could seat bullets out as far as I wanted and used a single shot follower for my bench rig.

Can you folks refresh my memory on head spacing without a no go gauge. Please also blind mag removal from the old stock. Thanks.

For the mag removal, just put a thin, flathead screw driver under the tab of the L clip and twist. It should work its way out. Gotta work it a little.

You can use a full-length sized case for your go gauge, then add a piece of cellophane tape or masking tape on the base of it to make it a no-go. If you have a real go gauge, you can make it a no-go the same way.

Tighten barrel and nut down with the go-gage in the chamber. Remove the go-gage and try again with no-go. The bolt should start to close but not go all the way down. (Of course, if you force it against the tape, it will close. Just make sure the handle does not close more than 1/2 way down with normal pressure.)

FWIW I had this idea a few years ago. After going over the numbers a thousand times and running ballistic calcs a thousand more I decided to build a long range 7mm-08.

I went with a 30" bull barrel on a PTA, custom stock to support the barrel and balance the weight, entire package weighed in at nearly 30 lbs.

And it shot pretty well, eventually.

What a pain in the ass to tune/load for. I've never had a round NOT come together like that one.

Am working with a 7WSM at the moment and will never look at a 7-08 again. For all the time, aggravation, time, irritation, time, money, time, frustration and time I spent on that round you can have it.

To do it all over again I would build a .308, and that's from a guy that has sworn to never build a .308.

The 7mm-08 looks perfect on paper and is a great hunting round but in all honesty the theoretical/hypothetical advantages over a .308/.243 just aren't worth the hassle.

YMMV and best of luck.

Thanks for the info fellas.

Hey folks I'm think that for a scope I'm gonna go with a Nikon monarch 3 with a mil-dot reticle. Unless yall have something better that is similar in design and close to or cheaper in price.

Ok folks. Here's what I've got. Stevens 200 sa 308 bolt face. I thought real hard about doing this biuld in 7mm08 with a 20" barrel. Now after some others opinions I'm wondering with the info I've given what are some other suggestions. I'm looking for the absolute best in range and accuracy. I would like to stay with factory loaded ammo so the ackley cartridges are out. So once more. The best short action cartridge that will deliver the best accuracy at the farthest ranges. I can go to a longer barrel if need be but would like to stay short. Thanks

Check out this compelling argument for .284win (still factory ammo produced) http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek095.html
I have always loved the .284 Winchester. I still shoot my original lever action, and I built a custom bolt gun a few years ago. You can really coax a lot more out of this caliber if you handload though. I consider this the 'original short mag'

6.5 Creedmoor also sounds good for you with good factory ammo selections.

Don't rule out the .243 either, there are amazing 6mm bullets available these days.

I'm going to plug the 6.5x284 norma as well.

You can technically get factory ammo for it, and you could build it in a short action.

I would never do either of those things, but something to think about.

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Originally Posted by jraney

Hey folks I'm think that for a scope I'm gonna go with a Nikon monarch 3 with a mil-dot reticle. Unless yall have something better that is similar in design and close to or cheaper in price.

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Scopes are hard. Just make sure that Monarch has enough internal adjustment to shoot the ranges you plan to shoot. As long as that checks out, and you like the scope, then go for it.

It sucks to find out while you are in the field, that you only have 44moa total adjustment, and a flat base. It's going to be fun trying to hold over that 1000yd target.

I wouldn't get too overly concerned about this though, I've shot plates at a thousand using the BDC circles on a 3-9 prostaff. I certainly wouldn't try to compete like that though. So, to each his own.

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Originally Posted by noisewaterphd

Don't rule out the .243 either, there are amazing 6mm bullets available these days.

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Consider this in a 26" and have it set back when your done