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I fell into a model 200 in 30-06. Want a 800 yd tack driver any suggestions appreciated. Here's the kicker though budget is next to nothing can't afford to spend to much money on myself have to honor other responsibilities first. Any help you can give I thank you ahead of time
I'm in the same boat... Seems like everything I want to build up my Stevens 200 is gonna run me at least $6-800 to get to where I want to be... FOR NOW!!! LOL
What's your first mod gonna be I'm thinking good stock and I hate the bolt handle. What caliber
My cheapest and best mod so far was to purchase a 3 screw trigger off one of the members here and install it.. It made the biggest difference so far and really allowed me to become more consistent.
Then, I upgraded my base, rings, and scope to the ones I planned to use on the rifle long term... I went with the EGW 20 moa base, Burris Signature Zee rings and a Vortex Viper HST scope.. This really helped me hit farther out with my current setup. It may have helped my groups tighten up just a bit but not really. I had decent optics on prior to this one.
I guess next is to rebarrel and restock this beast. Its the part of building a rifle that I'm least experienced with so I'm nervous about doing it right. I'm also wishy washy on what caliber and barrel length and all that stuff so for those reasons I've kept putting it off.. But from what I can tell, the barrel and tools will be 3-500 bucks depending on how nice of a barrel I get and then the stock will be $150-400 depending... So I'm kinda at a stand still financially here... LOL.. But I'm still working with loads and enjoying the rifle like it is...
Shoot it as is till you "can't stand it' any more, then pop for your upgrages.(one at a time) Rifle Basix trigger will go a long way for getting where you want to. Custom chambered barrel (to your specs) would be the next on my list. Stocks? There's a lot of them floating around. One step at a time!!
I appreciate it all looks like a good plan to me so here we go
Factory match ammo in 30-06 is a rare thing, but that doesn't mean that a 30-36 can't be very accurate. Hunting ammo is often not the most accurate. Load up some 168 match bullets and try what you have before you re-barrel. Note that Savage factory barrels often don't reach peak accuracy till 50 to 100 rounds are thru the barrel. I would mod the trigger and bed it before you do anything other than shoot it a lot. If it is a sporter weight barrel don't expect good 5 shot groups. It takes a long time for a barrel to cool down after the first two or three shots. If it puts the first two or three rounds in the same place every time from a cool barrel it's worth keeping.
Winner Winner Chicken Dinner... You my friend have started down the right track. Trigger , mounts and glass and a good load. I'd skip the barrel and stock for now and maybe do a do it yourself project like bedding the one you have. When you find the right load you'll have what you're looking for. I have had very good success in several 30-06s with 168gr Game King HPBT and a max load of IMR 4350. Be sure and work up and once you get a decent small group try a couple of different primers with this load. It's been shooting bug holes for me for years.Quote:
Originally Posted by cowtownup
In my opinion lots of guys throw money and parts at rifles that need nothing more than load development. Though the trigger and glass are important, great places to start and often need improvement, load development is most often the least expensive, biggest accuracy improvement you can make. A starter kit with everything you need except consumables is a little over a hundred and works wonders for multiple rifles.
I have a Savage/Stevens 7mm rem mag I plan to build. My big question for long range is, should I re-barrel or put money in a scope first. I'm talking 400-500 yard shots. Any thoughts?
It depends on how accurately you want to shoot at 400-500 yards.. I made hits with my sporter barrel 308 at that range but just couldn't group well or make 1st shot hits everytime like I wanted too.. I also couldn't shoot as fast as I wanted to due to barrel heat... However, like you are considering, I spent my money buying a decent scope and rings package while I researched and tried to figure out what barrel I wanted to go with. Finally, I bit the bullet and bought the barrel.. I can now shoot more and more accurately than with the sporter barrel.. Good luck to you...
Are you going to be reloading or shooting factory ammo?
I'll be using mostly hand loads after I finish off my Hornady ammo. I use Hornady
reload bullets, too. I just ordered a shilen premium sporter 26" barrel for it.
I'll likely swap barrels with my 270 and put the Nikon buckmaster 4.5-14 scope
on the mag.
This right here is all you need to read. +1Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep
Amen.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkker
With a budget like yours, it's the only place to start.
Even a really good trigger, stock, scope and all the bells and whistles you can hang on it will do no good if your ammo is not dialed in for that barrel.
Thanks, guys. I am attending a reloading class given by the NRA at Cabelas in about a month.
There I hope to learn to make great & consistent loads. Before I spend any more $ on the gun,
I'll see what I can do with my ammo. Thanks a lot!
Pick up a number of the load manuals, they have a wealth of information for a beginning reloader. Read, read, read. That, along with the class should get you started in the right direction. One thing you have to remember when loading for accuracy is consistency. All brass should be the same brand and preferably from the same lot number. Match primers and weigh all powder charges. Know what your maximum overall cartridge length is for your rifle and seat bullets to at least the length required for your magazine box so they function flawlessly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Will Gehring