Building a savage 6.5 Creedmoor help

Well, I've decided to purchase a 6.5 creedmoor for my long range gun and none of the factory Savage rifles really do it for me. The 12 LRP is too heavy for hunting, I hate the camo stock on the predator max and don't see the need for the muzzle break on the long range hunter. So anyways, I'm thinking of buying a donor action savage and getting it rebarreled to a 6.5 creedmoor. Depending on what I find I obviously may need to get it restocked and a new trigger on it unless it has the accustock and accutrigger. I really like the Savage rifles and that's why I figured I should stick with since I'm familiar with. I know nothing about doing this so I have no Ideal what calibers/actions will work. Also, I'm not a gunsmith buy very mechanically inclined. What should I be looking for? Also, will a rifle with a magazine or hinged floor plate need to be switched over for the 6.5 creedmoor? What's the best bang for the buck as far as barrels go and how hard is it to switch one over? I figure a custom barrel will be better that a savage stock barrel for the most part. Would like to keep the cost of the rifle around $1000 or so. Thanks for your input.

Welcome to the forums! You'd be good to go using a long action, stagger feed, if you can find one. If you have your heart set on a detachable magazine, that will narrow things down and increase cost over a stagger feed. Any of the after market barrels will be well above the quality of the factory barrel. Contact Jim at Apache Gun Works (a site sponsor), he has very good prices for barrel in either chrome moly or stainless. Also check out Shaw, CBI/Criterion and McGowan.

If you use an older stagger feed action, install a Rifle Basix trigger and set it for about three pounds. For s stock, go on line and type in " Savage rifle stocks" and browse the results that come up to see what you might like.

The actual barrel change is not difficult at all. You'll need a barrel nut wrench and a barrel or action vise and a GO head space gauge. Members here can talk you through the installation and help clear up any problems you may encounter.

Takes almost as long to type out how to swap a barrels as to do it.
Id also look at Shilen barrels.
NSS may have what you need in stock and defiantly has the right tool to do it.
Swapped in a Shilen barrel in 260 on my savage and am very happy with the results.

Hate the camo on the Predator Hunter max 1? Just paint over it, that's what I did.

A couple of things I found out so far. I need an action and from what I've read if I go with a .308, 22-250, .243, or 7mm-08 I won't need to do any modifications to the bolt. Looks like the cheapest donor gun I can find on Armslist is going to be a stevens 22-250 and it's $350 and it's obviously going to need a trigger for $100. Is the stevens the same as a model 11. I'm not sure what actions usually cost here on the forum as I cant see the classifieds as I'm not a paying member. I would think the cost is going to be close to 350 with shipping and FFL fees. These do need to go through a FFL correct? I obviously am going to need a stock and it seems like the best bang for the buck is going to be a Bell and Carson Medalist? Talked to Jim at NSS yesterday and he says he has a Shillen barrel for $339. Is this the best barrel for the money in 6.5 creedmoor? Also says to get the recoil lug and new barrel nut with it. Not sure if it's worth it for me to buy the tools for the swap as the barrel nut wrench and action wrench is almost $100. Already have the go no go gauges for 6.5 creedmoor.

That is too much for that gun(around here anyway). New they aren't that much. OR use a Marlin X7.

Don't count on spending $100 on a trigger unless you want to. Generally you can just adjust them into a very nice trigger.

Yes, ANY reciever(what the ATF calls the "gun") must go through a FFL.

Personally the Boyds, or a Duramaxx is the better bang-for-the-buck.

"Best" anything, barrel or not, can only be determined by YOU. Are they good barrels? Certainly. Then again the ER Shaw, with a tight-spot, I bought from GunShack for $180 will hold MOA at a mile... So you tell me which is "BEST"?

I've never needed a action wrench. Just a nut wrench, and a Bench vice with some wooden blocks I drilled a hole in. SOMETIMES you will have to cut the nut off, sometimes it falls off.
The recoil lug and nut argument is one that was recently hashed out in another thread. By the "rebuttals" that were against my response, pretty much affirmed my original contention.

So what it comes down to is this: What do you want???

You keep talking about "Bang-For-The-Buck". THAT implies this is an economy build, and not something chasing world records. Therefore, you do not "Need" them. CAN they play into accuracy due to harmonics? Perhaps. Both of my 1 mile rifles have factory nuts and recoil lugs, no bedding, no pillars, no aftermarket triggers. So is it required for "serious" 1-mile work? NO. The nut is a jam-nut, to keep the barrel from rotating in relationship to the receiver(changing headspace); Nothing more. Will precision ground parts help? Dunno, but I would concede that it may help; never "needed" them to achieve the results.

Higher precision equipment will certainly over-come many of the shooters shortcomings. Do you want to be a poor reloader/shooter with good equipment, or a good reloader/shooter with poorer equipment? Nothing is that cut and dry, but it's my take on it; for whatever it may or may not be worth to you. I have no problem with someone wanting "better" equipment, but if you are using words like "worth it, and Bang-for-the-buck" then those items are certainly not "needed".

If I understand you correctly, you want the best equipment you can get for$1,000 and, I presume, learn to shoot it as well as possible. I have yet to meet anyone who believes they will become better shooter if they have the sense to get the cheapest quality equipment possible and practice till it shoots well. :)

I think you are on good track... all the aftermarket barrels shoot very well. Doubt there's a nickel bit of difference between them as far as accuracy goes. Given your budget, I would also highly recommend Apache. He has a vey good reputation for quality work even when starting with less expensive barrel blanks. Good approach. Also, as some have stated, you can easily install $100 aftermarket trigger like Sharp Shooter Supply Competition Trigger or Rifle Basix or Timney. They are all good. With a lot of practice, time and attention to detail and good research you can also improve old, pre-accutrigger Savage factory triggers to nearly the same performance. Personally, I don't think it is worth the effort, but it's your time and hobby. You might enjoy the challenge and take pride in the end results. As far as the rifle is concerned, that's really what it
s all about. Boyds is a good source for low cost stocks tat can shoot very well. I do believe they should be pillared and bedded vey inexpensively and easily.

Then, as Darkker suggests, you still need to learn how to shoot it. :)

Well, I'm an avid shooter and have quite a few rounds under my belt. The Creedmoor is going to be my new hunting/target rig and that's why I'm asking the questions. I've never built a rifle and most of my other rifles, which are savages, shoot pretty well. I was going to try and push my limits a little bit with this new caliber and gun. I'm doing the research on the build before I put it together as most of you have more experience than I do. Also, I'd rather get the better equipment up front than learn with trial and error. That's why I'm asking about the quality of barrels and stocks. I rather not spend $350 on a barrel when a $200 one is just as good. My guns now are all factory and I'd like this one to me more of a custom build. Probably going to be hard to beat the accuracy of some of the stock Savage guns but I'd like to try.

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Originally Posted by giannid

I rather not spend $350 on a barrel when a $200 one is just as good. My guns now are all factory and I'd like this one to me more of a custom build. Probably going to be hard to beat the accuracy of some of the stock Savage guns but I'd like to try.

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That part is the "loaded question". Unless you buy something with a guarantee, there is none. Factory ammo.... I'm not sure, I haven't shot any for effect in at least a decade.
For the handloader, what most people fail to understand is the learning part. This is not meant as a slight towards you at all.
"I'd rather buy better equipment up front that learn with trial and error". If you don't learn what does or doesn't do, A thing, good or bad; then how are you learning? The "good" equipment, or the "Good" load, won't help you learn YOUR equipment. Take it to the extreme example, does buying a rally car, make you a world class driver? Can you learn to be a good driver with a Gremlin?

For $1,000 budget, you almost have to try to make the gun NOT be as good as any factory rifle. Can you only EVER build/buy one gun? So ask yourself, do you want to learn what your gun will or won't do, what you do or don't like, after spending $1,000? Or do you want to learn those things after spending $ 300, then being able to spend money where you actually want it??

Neither is "wrong", just make sure you spend your money how YOU want to. If I tell you how to build your rifle how I did, doesn't mean you like what I like :)

Just wanted to remind you to keep weight in mind as you build this rifle. On my first build I just looked at barrels, stocks and optics without keeping the weight in mind. My creed came out at 11.5 pounds! To heavy to pack up and down the mtn. I love the 6.5 creed and think it's a great caliber, good luck !

giannid,

I understand your reluctance to buying the action wrench and consider this; do you really think this will be your only build? From my experience it won't be. They allow you to bypass the gunsmith (which, after all, is the point of doing a build). If you lived anywhere near me you could borrow mine. You might find one that someone might be willing to part with in the ads on this site Barring that I suggest you go ahead and get the tools, they make the job a snap. I can almost guarantee you will do, at least,one more build.

As for barrels both of my builds got Criterion barrels (match grade) from NSS. for a lower price point I've heard nothing bad about Apache. Highly recommend precision lug and nut. Take your time and enjoy the process. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by airdale

giannid,

Highly recommend precision lug and nut. Take your time and enjoy the process. Good luck.

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I was wondering why you highly recommend a precision lug and nut? I thought it might be helpful for me and others to know/learn.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by andy221

I was wondering why you highly recommend a precision lug and nut? I thought it might be helpful for me and others to know/learn.

Thanks

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If you saw the warped crooked recoil lug that came off the NIB Stevens that was the donor for my first build you would understand my recommendation. If your building a custom rifle why not go first class instead of skimping on something that costs so little? If I had not changed out the lug it would have constantly bugged me for being so cheap. Just sit a precision lug and nut next to the factory stuff you'll see what I mean.

I just finished my 6.5 creedmoor build and it turned out pretty good. I went with a savage axis in .308, 26" shilen barrel, and a boyds tacticool stock. I have my own lathe so I cut the action for conventional recoil lug, I also added my own bolt handle as the original one is a little small. The boyds stock got a bedding job and some reshaping to suit my taste. Topped off with a nikon 6-18 X 40 mil-dot I have no trouble getting 1/2" groups all day. The magazine setup seems pretty cheap but no trouble so far.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by airdale

If you saw the warped crooked recoil lug that came off the NIB Stevens that was the donor for my first build you would understand my recommendation. If your building a custom rifle why not go first class instead of skimping on something that costs so little? If I had not changed out the lug it would have constantly bugged me for being so cheap. Just sit a precision lug and nut next to the factory stuff you'll see what I mean.

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Ok, yeah good point. I was also wondering if it could cause problems or anything like that?