Pillar Bedding Question

I found a source for inexpensive Pillar Bedding Stock, $7.95 ea for packs of 2-4" sections of 1/2"OD x .252"ID and 3/8"OD x .252"ID aluminum 6011 tubing...there is a gunsmith in AZ that sells it, $19.85 shipped for enough to do several rifles...

What do most savage owners do with the rear pillar? The rear action screw is not meant to be pillar bedded is it? The way the action screw rides up so close to the trigger mechanism just about makes it impossible to pillar bed the rear screw...I ordered the 3/8" stock to see if iI could bevel the pillar to clear the action screw and trigger interface and allow about 50% of the pillars shoulder to contact the action, the front will be a 1/2" OD x .252" ID and make full contact...so...does anyone bother pillar bedding the rear screw? Or just the front one? I will be glass bedding as well...did some measurements the rear pillar would be somewhere close to .85" and the front at about 1.4", the rear pillar is also not going to be surrounded by wood like the fronts are...it will get a dab of epoxy to hold it in position while the front sets up, once its broken apart the rear would get buttered up with DevCon and then dremel'd and contoured to clear the trigger...should actually be as strong or stronger than the front riding in wood

Anyone ever done this before? Specifically pillar bedding the rear pillar in a Savage?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CAPTBEACH

What do most savage owners do with the rear pillar? The rear action screw is not meant to be pillar bedded is it?

---

I don't know if they were meant to have a pillar installed but I put'm in. There is enough meat from the bottom of the trigger guard mortice to the top of the sear relief cut in the stock to glue a full 1/2" one in.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2va00h4.jpg

The only thing I do differently today, I'll notch the pillar for sear clearance after it installed rather than like the one in the pic. BTW, I bed the stock and glue both pillars in at the same time, one shot and done. For myself its easier than doing then individually.

Bill

Thats what I was thinking too...notch the pillar and rest it on the mortise below instead of drilling it through, once the DevCon is set its solid as stone...

You see how Bill does his? A picture CAN be worth a thousand words. The pillars are secured to the action with screws. You can knotch the rear pillar to clear the trigger assembly. If you don't want to use a full size pillar in the rear, you can use threaded lamp rod. Gives you a little more room and you don't have to remove as much wood. It gets kinda tight at the trigger area.
The way I do mine is I do the pillars first then do the action after the pillars are secured in the stock. Only difference between Bill's picture and how I do mine is that I have the barrel attatched to the action. Keeps it straight in the barrel channel. A 1/32" off center at the nut can = 1/4" at the end of the forearm.
Shim the tang and barrel. (you want a little daylight under the tang). Set everything in place and check clearence. Make sure the barrel is straight in the forearm channel.
If you like the way it rests in the stock, pull it and add bedding around the pillars. (just around the pillars) Be sure to use LOTS of mold release on the action. Let it set. Don't get in a hurry.
After it has set up GOOD, pull the screws and lift out the action. You like what you see? Bed the lug and the sides of the action. Use the action serews to secure the action to the pillars while the bedding sets up. You're wanting a metal to metal contact between the action and pillars. Mold release on the action screws too!
If there any place where there's a void in the bedding, you can go back and skim that area.
Don't get in a hurry!!! Check the bedding to make sure it looks the way YOU want it. It may end up being a two or three step process. Whatever it takes to get it to look and work the way YOU want it.
Make sure the stock sides are covered "REAL GOOD" with masking tape to keep the goop from contacting the wood. Wipe off any extra. You'll get it on your hands and it will transfer to the wood!!
I've done maybe 10 or 12 but that doesn't make me an expert. The more you do the better you get at it.

Mike

Ditto to Mike and I cut the rear pillar relief after installation, I had trouble getting the pillar perpendicular if i cut before installation. You do have to remove the trigger group.

Bill

I bed the action and the pillars at the same time with the pillars screwed onto the rifle. Basically like this, but using a Savage rifle and I use lamp rod as a pillar.

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CAPTBEACH

rest it on the mortise below instead of drilling it through

---

If I'm following what you're saying, it defeats the purpose of the pillar. Remember, the purpose of pillars it to prevent the stock material from compressing/displacing from screw torque or better said, keeps the screw tight in a stock it never touches.

When a bolt, screw or stud w/nut is tightened the threads only provide the means to preload it, ie; stretch it like a rubber band. That preload is what keeps a fastener tight, not the 1/2 gallon of Loctite on the threads. Just because a screw won't move doesn't mean its doing the job intended.

Resting the pillar on the inside of the mortice still allows a bit of material subject to compression, why the head of the screw must contact the pillar to be effective, to maintain the screw preload.

Bill

+1 and great pic.

The object of using pillars is to have a "metal to metal" contact so there's no chance of wood compression. The action rests on the pillar and the screw head does also. Daylight around and under the action.
If you adjust the position of the pillars/action (before they're secured in place) to be above the wood, there's no chance of wood compression. The bedding fills the gap around the action.
This is where you take your time and get it right the first time.
Only difference than the way it's been mentioned is I don't remove the trigger assembly and I'll knotch the rear pillar for clearence. Lamp rod workd perfect in tight spots. Full pillar if you've got room.
Set your clearence with shims. Secure (glue) the pillars. Pull the action after the bedding has set "real good". Add bedding as you see fit. You're doing it the way YOU want it. Take as much or as little time as it takes to get it the way you had planned.