How do I fix my split Boyds stock?

Earlier this week I pulled my action out of my Boyd's Prairie Hunter stock to install a different trigger spring and when I put it back together the trigger kept jamming up. I got so frustrated that I put the action back into the Accustock that was on the rifle when I bought it. Trigger works perfectly now.

http://garage-machinist.com/www/SavS...acked_boyd.jpg

I hope I didn't over tighten it. I use a fat wrench and used 30 inch pounds on the front and 25 on the rear.

I'd like to repair the stock rather than pursue having Boyd's replace it. Any ideas on how to do it? I'm up for combining a stock repair with bedding the action at the same time.

Thanks,

Szumi

Acraglass works wonders on broken stocks. It is thin and will flow into very small cracks. I repaired a stock that was broken into four pieces and have had zero problems with it. I would clamp it once the AcraGlass has flowed into the areas I want to fix, but there are instructions included with the product.

Just stick a nice half inch od aluminum pillar there and bed around it. Will be better than new.

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Originally Posted by Maztech89

Just stick a nice half inch od aluminum pillar there and bed around it. Will be better than new.

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Good idea. If you don't do that I would use Acraglass or JB Weld.

Repair it first and then install pillars, but that's just my way of thinking.

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Originally Posted by Maztech89

Just stick a nice half inch od aluminum pillar there and bed around it. Will be better than new.

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+1 but use Acraglass. I tried the same thing with Devcon10110 and it kept cracking. Then I used Acraglass and drywall screws cut short and inserted into the acraglass running across the grain/split. Don't really know if the screws were necessary, but I am confident the Acraglass was better for the wood repair. Then I did a traditional bedding job over the top with Devcon. Been fine ever since.

On occasion I would have to repair a stock in the shop. For a lengthwise split I'd rout or cut a slots across the cracked area then glue in the shank ( threaded portion) of a brass machine screw. I'd all but fill the slot with glue, usually Acraglas liquid( red box), press the screw in flush with the surface then clamp the stock together until the goop cured.


Bill

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Originally Posted by olddav

Repair it first and then install pillars, but that's just my way of thinking.

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I think I'll glue the wedge in first before I do anything. I have some JB epoxy and some devcon epoxy on hand.

Is there a good tutorial on putting in pillars? I've never installed pillars before. I have a lathe and a mill so I have tools to work with.

If you have a nice lathe and can make some pillars you should check out the thread beneath this one. Capt Beach is looking for someone to machine some pillars for him. Maybe in return he could show you how's it is done.

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Originally Posted by Szumi

Is there a good tutorial on putting in pillars? I've never installed pillars before. I have a lathe and a mill so I have tools to work with.

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Pillars are simple to make. Put a piece of aluminum bar in the lathe then turn it to what ever diameter you want. I use 1/2" so all I have t do is drill than use a parting bit to cut the grooves. When drilling use a bit sized so the screws just fit. After they're glued in you'll want to open them to 5/16" for screw shank clearance.

I don't contour them, I attach them to the action with screws then let the bedding material( Plastic steel) flow and fill in between the action and the top of the pillars. BTW, I bed the action and glue in the pillars at the same time.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2va00h4.jpg

This is a good How to...http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Bill

Hey BillPA I must say that's the shortest barrel I've ever seen on a savage.

I do the same as Bill does except I only open the pillars to 9/32 but as long as there is shank clearance you're golden. My last set my buddy made me he used his knurling tool on and it seems to have worked very well in conjunction with a few grooves around circumference. I too use Devcon 10110 for the bedding. Also don't forget to relieve the inletting a touch so there is room for your thin layer of bedding compound and roughen it up. I heavily dimple the whole area with a carbide but in die grinder to get a mechanical lock into the stock as it flows in.

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Originally Posted by Maztech89

Hey BillPA I must say that's the shortest barrel I've ever seen on a savage.

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Everyone sez dat.....:p

I made that shortie to bed the actions without a barrel installed or taping-filling the slots in the nuts. Its .025" larger in diameter than the nut and barrel tenon.

http://i39.tinypic.com/296kv8n.jpg

I'm happy the fine folks here have helped out but when do we stop giving a pass to Boyds for this rash of split and otherwise unsatisfactory stocks?
It needs to cost Boyds some money before they seriously address these issues. If we continue to "just fix it myself" then Boyds is ignorant, fat and happy because no money is coming out of their coffers.
I'd send that back to Boyds and demand a replacement or a refund.

I can't disagree with you, Sav, but b/c I view the Boyds stock as a supplier of an unfinished project piece that requires pillars and bedding, I don't get frustrated with it splitting while trying to bed and pillar it. I am sure there is a fix to the problem, but it is probably more expensive than what it is worth to me to have it solved at their end. Normally I would say my attitude towards it is a bit ridiculous. At a lot of levels it is. But I am glad to have $109 stocks that require that I add bedding and pillars and possible reinforcement of weak points. The "fix" is not a problem for me. It is just part of the process, the project. Having said that, I think they should be informed, for sure.

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see anyone giving Boyd's a pass. It appeared to me that many wanted to fix the problem themselves instead of sending the stock back and waiting a extended period of time (weeks) to get a replacement. I like tinkering and a cracked stock is an opportunity to tinker.

Not only that... look at the stock. Look at how it has to be cut just to allow for the Savage hardware. There's not much room for material of any kind. As soon as I decided to bed and pillar it I knew it would likely break. What surprised me was the fact Devcon 10110 did not hold for me. It kept cracking because it was too hard and brittle. Oh well. Now I know better how to fix stocks.

What I didn't like was seeing the one where it split along the front pillar. That wasn't good. They agreed. No excuses. They just replaced it for the guy like I thought they would.

After watching more than a "few" threads about cracked Boyd's stocks, I have to wonder. Anybody consider that "just maybe" it's not a "Boyd's" problem but how the stocks are treated by the end users? Meaning, maybe the contour of the action not matching the contour of the inlet and as the action is pulled down into the inlet, it's "spreading" the laminates and causing the stocks to crack?
I've only bedded about a dozen laminated stocks so I don't call myself an expert but NOT ONCE have I ever had a problem! I'll add pillars and know ahead of time that the action can't crush the wood because of the metal to metal contact with pillars. The action sits high enough in the stock inlet by resting on pillars. The bedding fills the gap between stock and action. At no time is the action forced down in the inlet without enough clearance to keep from contacting the wood and spreading the laminates open. And if there isn't enough wood for a large 1/2" or 5/8" pillar, think about threaded lamp rod. Small enough to be fitted in less wood and you've still got metal touching the bottom of the action and the action screw is also contacting metal. No crushed wood and no split laminates.
And IMHO, Boyd's laminated stocks are no different that any other laminated stock maker. Could they have a problem? It IS possible but I'd be looking at how the stock is treated by the end user. The stocks didn't have a problem "before" they were shipped. Only after they were messed with. Mistakes can be made but that doesn't make it a BOYD'S problem. JMHO, Mike.

I epoxied the forward chunk back in today in preparation of drilling it for pillars. The inletting on mine seemed fine before it broke and I used a torque wrench so I didn't overstress the stock.

There wasn't anything odd looking about the chunk I epoxied back in place. Oh well, I'll put pillars in and move forward.

If you're open for a few hints and suggestions: There's not much wood to work with in that area so "think small". Threaded lamp rod works real well for that type of application. Check the length. Make it (the rod) long enough to raise the action above the inlet and still be in contact under the head of the action screw. The action screws will be smaller in the rod holes. You can use heat shrink tubing on the screws to take up some of the slack. Secure the screws and proper length pillars to the action. Set the shimmed action and barrel in the stock. Plug the holes where the pillars touch the action with tissue paper so the bedding (if it's thin enough) won't run out. Stock is upside down with the action secured in place and centered in the inlet. Masking tape will secure the action in place. Let it set up real good. You can go back and add more after they're set.
I do mine in two steps, sometimes 3. (I'am repeating myself) Set the pillars (front and rear) in position, make sure the barrel is centered in the barrel channel with enough clearence. Shim the tang and barrel. Thin cardboard and masking tape works good for shim stock or double up on the tape till it's the thickness you want.
Glue the pillars in place. Let the bedding set up real good. No use getting in a hurry now! Make sure you use LOTS of mold release. Clear shoe polish wax works wonders!! And drill the pillar holes "just big enough" so the pillars will fit without force.
A good size rat tail file works good also. Beats having a drill bit catching and breaking out the smaller sections of wood.The glue (bedding) will keep them in place and also support the thin wood in that area till you do the action bedding. Remember, "lots" of mold release when you set the action!!! And on the action screws also. After you've done the action bedding, you can go back and add more bedding in the areas that could use a little more. From underneath or the top. I've even used Super Glue to secure loose chunks till the pillars are set. Use what you need to get the job done. Don't be concerned if there's places where the bedding isn't smooth. You're not out to impress anybody. No body will know what it looks like till you pull the action out of the stock. You can (if you must) always go back and fill in any bad looking spots. The more you do bedding the better you get at it! And don't be afraid to ask questions. We all had to start somewhere. Please keep us updated on your progress. You'll do a FINE JOB!!