Ok, I have finally decided to bite the bullet. Savage 110e donor rifle... (Custom)

As you can tell by my screen name I own a weatherby. My main appreciation for that rifle is the following.

Rear Comb on stock
60 degree bolt throw
Great Action, smooth as glass bolt.

I would like to get some of the same features in my current savage. I plan to sell my weatherby to fund this build.

I have a 30-06 110e rifle. This rifle is a shooter! I don't feel the need to swap barrels as this thing will put holes in the same spot if i do my part. I have already added an S2 trigger to this rifle and its sporting a Vortex Diamondback 3-9 scope. I also have a 6-24 Burris Signature Series Scope. Below is what I am hoping to accomplish.

Better bolt that fits snug in the action and doesn't slop around like the current one. Fluting, jeweled or whatever is an option.
Different stock... I like the medalist stocks with the rear comb. They fit me very well. Main reason I went with my weatherby initially.
Muzzlebrake so I can shoot this thing at the range a bit.
Any other suggestions that members here have.

This will be my first build up. I have swapped triggers, and bedded actions before but that's about my extent of "gunsmithing"

I am thinking maybe the Boyds "Tacticool" stock? Looks like it has that cheek weld comb?

This will be a 100-500 yard hunting rig with some decent amount of bench time.

Oh, a 1 piece rail would be nice too! Any ideas if the 110e is different for the mounting system compared to the newer 110's?

Take your time, don't sell the Weatherby, you will regret it!! I took 5 months for the build I just did, kept my Weatherby's (both). It was worth it. The Savage 7mag is a jewel but my .223 Weatherby is the most accurate, fun rifle I have ever owned. Just my useless opinion. Kris

Well, the main reason for selling my weatherby is because it just wont shoot accurately after 3 shots. It is a #1 barrel Mark V deluxe, so it heats up super quick and its done. The other reason is because I bought a Bell and Carlson Medalist stock for it, bedded the action and it just wont shoot in that stock. I free floated the barrel and maybe that's why it wont shoot now in that stock? I have no idea. It's a great looking rifle, but I just really don't like that #1 contour barrel for range days. For me to re-barrel it with a #2 contour barrel is around $800. I could pretty much find another used weatherby in #2 for that price point. Otherwise its an amazing rifle.

I figure if I bought a B & C medalist stock for my savage I could bed the recoil lug add a tactical bolt handle and pretty much be $321 extra into my savage and pocket the rest of the money from my weatherby and then get a better bolt down the road if needed? I also really only have a need for 1 hunting rig currently.

Given that, I can see your point. I have the #2 on the .223 and the .300WM is a heavy mother. I only shoot the .300 maybe 3-4 times a year but I still can't bring myself to sell it. It is a MV Deluxe, the .223 is a VS2. I agree with with your thinking, good luck and have fun. Not sure about the float though, both of mine are free floated, I did the .223, factory did the .300 Kris

For a 1pc base, all you need to know is if its flat rear or round rear action.

To tighten up your bolt, you will most likely have to get an oversized bolt body to put in. PT&G makes them IIRC and I am told that they do a good job of taking up some of the slop. Remember that any time you change bolt heads or bolt body it is a must to recheck your headspace as both of those parts can directly affect headspace and possibly create an unsafe condition if the HS is wrong and not reset.

Back on topic...like boots said, I have the PT&G bolt body and bolt head for the .308 in a Stevens 200 reciever. I'd have to dig up the dimensions for the body but it was a "standard" PT&G offering oversized. There is no slop, slip, nada in the action. Very smooth. Headspace will have to be done as noted. The only issue I have with PT&G is it can take time to get what you want....took 8 weeks to get a bolt head and they sent the short action instead of the long and still don't have the replacement. Good stuff tho. Have boots make you a bolt handle/knob, love mine!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/23/aqaqajuz.jpg

I am attaching a picture of my current rifle base and ring setup. I have the scope as far back as I can get without getting into the bell of the scope. I still need to bring the scope back further as I am always having to lean in to the scope because it is so far forward. That's why I want a one piece base. Hopefully the picture will help determine if I need a flat or round...?

It looks like the top is FLAT from what I can tell...

Looking for something like this. So I can choose where I want to mount my scope...

http://swfa.com/EGW-Picatinny-Rail-1...nt-P46215.aspx

I have this same EGW on my weatherby and really like it.

Or, can I move the base back further somehow? I purchased the rifle with these rings and base setup.

yep, flat back. The egw will serve you well, will allow much more flexibility in mounting location to solve problems you described. Might want 20 MOA version for longer range adjustment. Not sure what height rings you'll need. Maybe medium to allow the scope to be placed further back on the base and clear the bell.

Would the 20MOA rail make me be way over the target at 100 yards? Normal hunting here is from around 100-500yards. Too many trees and brush otherwise. I'm not against 20MOA base, but won't ever see anything past 500 yards.

0 moa will do you fine if you shoot less then 600 yds, I am sure. But there's some who say always go 20MOA just in case you do want to shoot long range some day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by foxx

there's some who say always go 20MOA just in case you do want to shoot long range some day.

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Yup I can agree with this, but I have another view on it. I have been going with 0 MOA bases and using Burris Sig Zee Rings on my newest scope mounts. This way I can add the +/- MOA inserts when and if I decide I need it. It also gives me the ability to correct any misalignment issues due to crooked bases, holes being off center, etc.

The zee rings are the ones with plastic shims? I use the burris XTR low rings on my other rifle. Awesome rings!

Not exactly shims. Click on this VIDEO and it should help explain it better than I could.

Burris SIGNATURE rings have the shims. I bought some z rings not knowing better.

Yes correct foxx. Burris Signature Zee Rings. The Signature Zee rings have the inserts, the regular Zee rings do not.

Will the weaver brand rail for an axis fit the 110? I have a cabellas and sports authority locally and wanting to get the optics thing squared away first before I get another stock.

Never mind. They only fit round actions. Ok. Buying a EGW

take a look at the pics I put up in pic post "7MM Mag Love"....you can see where I took the grinder to the front of the rail to clear the front bell. I have the scope sitting about 1/2" too far back at present but at least there is room with the rail to find a way. I put the EGW rail on the Weatherby like you did with the Whitetail Classic, its a short body scope and worked fine using the Weaver offset rings, front and back although the low rings are not quite as low as I would like. Ditch the dove tail mount/rings IMHO. Seems finding the right rings any more is a pain. Going forward, I want to use the Signature rings dedicated to each scope for easy swaps like boots and foxx are doing..makes sense and allows for +600 yd without a 20moa rail. Live and learn...foxx buys something that doesn't quite work and I buy it from him....nice too have field tester :(

I have found EGW rail and burris XTR low rings work great for me. So I'm gonna stick with that setup.

Bought the EGW rail today.... I am thinking of buying the vortex scope ring bubble as well....

So I if everything goes well I will have around $500 to do this build. I was thinking of changing the stock and new tactical bolt knob....

I have found the style I like on eBay for the knob. I know eBay is not permitted here. Otherwise I would post what I am thinking of buying. Any ideas on stocks? I really like the manners 5a but wow it's spendy. Like the green color and everything.

I'm thinking for my budget, going with the choate tacticool. Non adjustable version.

My rifle currently is the blind mag version so this stock should work fine without any mods correct?

Yep. I just ordered the fully adjustable version for my 6.5-06 build. I didn't want to have to screw around with a stock much to get what I want out of it! All I plan to do is bed the recoild lug and that's it!

Sweet. Yeah, I just plan to do the recoil lug as well. Never know when and if I will do a barrel swap and would hate to have to grind out a ton of epoxy to use another barrel. I spent a good hour last night working on my SAV-1 trigger and have it down to about 1.5lbs now from 3lbs. Huge difference. Groups should get much smaller now.

I have a SAV-1 on my Axis 308. Mine is around one pound after almost 800rds and countless amounts of dry fire practice (always with dummy rounds) before matches. They do break in a little. Everyone that's shot my Axis talks about the trigger though. I ordered a SSS Comp Trigger for my 110 build, hoping to really step up my game from the world of the 308.

I was in the same predicament: I picked up a 110E and have converted it to my hunting/long range toy. I have a journal documenting everything I've done to it (Boyd's Tacticool stock, one piece base, rings, scope, etc.), I'll send it to you is you would like, just send your email via PM.

Well, I got my EGW rail, put my 6-24 scope on using XTR burris rings and lowered my trigger to 1.5lbs. Looking forward to shooting it!